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How in God's name can you tighten this bolt? I just installed my Hooker super comps this weekend. The drivers side went on ok but the passenger side was a pain in the @&!. Had a hard time tightening the front bolt on the passenger side under the AC compressor but got it. Still can't figure out how to get the last one? Looks like i'm going to have to move the wiring on the starter also cause the pipes are so close to them. My Y Pipe looks like it's also going to hit the shift cable or be very close to it. Hope it don't melt it and other things THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
No pointers on the #8 bolt since mine isn't even in. The Y-pipe is a piece of junk though. Mine doesn't interefere with the tranny linkage, but it does have a leak at the drivers side collector. The Y-pipe doesn't line up right. I have 2 Percys aluminum gaskets per side, and it still leaks. I'm about ready to just go have the damn thing welded.
How in God's name can you tighten this bolt? I just installed my Hooker super comps this weekend. The drivers side went on ok but the passenger side was a pain in the @&!. Had a hard time tightening the front bolt on the passenger side under the AC compressor but got it. Still can't figure out how to get the last one? Looks like i'm going to have to move the wiring on the starter also cause the pipes are so close to them. My Y Pipe looks like it's also going to hit the shift cable or be very close to it. Hope it don't melt it and other things THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS
I used ARP bolts with a 3/8" hex head on it and a 12 point wrench. If you used the Hooker supplied 7/16 hex head bolts they can be a real pain.
How in God's name can you tighten this bolt? I just installed my Hooker super comps this weekend. The drivers side went on ok but the passenger side was a pain in the @&!. Had a hard time tightening the front bolt on the passenger side under the AC compressor but got it. Still can't figure out how to get the last one? Looks like i'm going to have to move the wiring on the starter also cause the pipes are so close to them. My Y Pipe looks like it's also going to hit the shift cable or be very close to it. Hope it don't melt it and other things THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS
The easiest thing to do is to dump the standard hex head bolts and get the 1" long ARP stainless 1/4" hex head flange bolts. The heads are much smaller, but the surface area under the head is the same. They are MUCH easier to access with a small 1/4" drive socket. Now, #8...go buy a spare, flat (not offset) box wrench to mate up to whatever size head you end up using.
grind and bend as required to fit. Get under the car, and make sure that the "K" support on the pass. side is removed. (I can't remember if I took the fuel filter shield off too...) Reach up from underneath, and patiently get at it a flat at a time if you must, but you can do it that way. The header install on a full accessory C4 is a very ungratifying experience. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
I don't mean to hijack a post but if you were to install these headers in conjunction with an engine swap. at what point would you install the headers.
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
Originally Posted by lawcorvette
I don't mean to hijack a post but if you were to install these headers in conjunction with an engine swap. at what point would you install the headers.
Not sure, but I would bolt them on with the engine out of the car. If it won't fit, it's easy to pull them back off.
I use an SS Allen head with a cut of short piece of an allen wrench, then I put a box in wrench over the allen-piece and a then use a piece of pipe on the box wrench wrench to crank it down.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Although I have not installed Hookers on a C4, I have found them to be one of the more ill-fitting headers in other applications. I have installed a couple of other brands on C4s and found them to be a breeze. They go right up from underneath with no interfence. As mentioned, the smaller headed bolts will help in the tight places as will using headers with 1 5/8" primaries, which are more suitable in all but the most radical of street applications anyway. Oops, I forgot, I wasn't going to mention that....
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
headers with 1 5/8" primaries, which are more suitable in all but the most radical of street applications anyway. Oops, I forgot, I wasn't going to mention that....
Well I loosened all the other bolts on the headers and pushed it forward ever so slightly then I ground down a box wrench and was abl to get on it. I could only turn the bolt about an eighth of a turn at a time. It took forever it seemed till it tightened up. Also had to trim the heat shield to the fuel filter slightly. Moved the wires to the starter cause they were very close to the pipes. When I crawled under the car to put the frame brace back on the passenger side it wont go on. Cause the headers are so close to the frame you can't get the bolts in. Now I migt have to loosen the headers again slide the frame brace back in after I do some grinding on it then bolt it up. By te way my car is a 90 Auto. I have Hookers (non- smog) and using the Stage #8 locking bolts. I'm at wits end and I didn't even get to the Y Pipe yet