Scorp 508: 4+3 options
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Scorp 508: 4+3 options
Brian,
If the overdrive goes bad, there are two typical options:
1. Rebuild it.
2. Swap the 4+3 for a ZF 6, which is probably the best thing, but very expensive.
Is it possible to do one of the following?
3. Just leave the car in direct drive all the time and change the oil in the T10 and the fluid in the overdrive regularly (the bearings in it would still need clean lubricant).
4. Take the overdrive apart, remove any unnecessary parts (if there are unnecessary parts), reinstall it, and just run the car in direct drive all the time and change the oil and fluid regularly.
David
If the overdrive goes bad, there are two typical options:
1. Rebuild it.
2. Swap the 4+3 for a ZF 6, which is probably the best thing, but very expensive.
Is it possible to do one of the following?
3. Just leave the car in direct drive all the time and change the oil in the T10 and the fluid in the overdrive regularly (the bearings in it would still need clean lubricant).
4. Take the overdrive apart, remove any unnecessary parts (if there are unnecessary parts), reinstall it, and just run the car in direct drive all the time and change the oil and fluid regularly.
David
Last edited by DSKRALL; Oct 29, 2004 at 12:10 PM. Reason: punctuation
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Boston, MA
There are some other options like the Richmond ROD6 transmission and the T-56. both take about as much work as the ZF6 does. Actually the T-56 is a hair more involved as you need to make a mounting plate for the C-Beam.
It really depends on "how" your O/D goes out. I've burnt up the clutches in mine before, but the car was still perfectly useable in direct drive. I can confirm 150mph in 4th gear is easily possible.
If you physically break anything in the O/D it is common to lose your reverse gear and that would be a royal pain.
As far as removing parts, I don't think it is possible after seeing how the internals are put together.
It really depends on "how" your O/D goes out. I've burnt up the clutches in mine before, but the car was still perfectly useable in direct drive. I can confirm 150mph in 4th gear is easily possible.
If you physically break anything in the O/D it is common to lose your reverse gear and that would be a royal pain.As far as removing parts, I don't think it is possible after seeing how the internals are put together.
Thread Starter
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Brian,
Thank you very much. What is a typical reason for something to break in the overdrive?
What revs does the engine turn at about 60 to 75 in direct drive, and how badly is mileage affected without the OD?
David
Thank you very much. What is a typical reason for something to break in the overdrive?
What revs does the engine turn at about 60 to 75 in direct drive, and how badly is mileage affected without the OD?
David
Last edited by DSKRALL; Oct 29, 2004 at 12:40 PM. Reason: writing
Team Owner
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From: Boston, MA
Its about 2550 for 65mph in 4th without overdrive. I honestly can't say how much mileage suffers as I only drove that way for 3 days and didn't pay all that much attention.
Sometimes the clutches get so burnt/torn up and will send chunks flying inside the O/D. This is where you can get some problems with other parts breaking. Its rare compared to the more often than not clutch pack problem with burnup and using direct drive is no problem.
Sometimes the clutches get so burnt/torn up and will send chunks flying inside the O/D. This is where you can get some problems with other parts breaking. Its rare compared to the more often than not clutch pack problem with burnup and using direct drive is no problem.
Thread Starter
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Scorp 508,
Thanks Brian. If OD damage is limited to the clutches, and the owner doesn't care about having OD, then simply using direct drive is the most logical solution of all. I assume the T10 is a rugged unit that will work for a long time with proper care.
David
Thanks Brian. If OD damage is limited to the clutches, and the owner doesn't care about having OD, then simply using direct drive is the most logical solution of all. I assume the T10 is a rugged unit that will work for a long time with proper care.
David
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From: On a Wisconsin Death Trip
I believe the Richmond is a little less involved than the ZF - the Richmond bolts right up to the old 4+3 bellhousing (no need to drop the entire trans/clutch assembly, just the gearbox).
Team Owner
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From: Boston, MA
Originally Posted by loiq
I believe the Richmond is a little less involved than the ZF - the Richmond bolts right up to the old 4+3 bellhousing (no need to drop the entire trans/clutch assembly, just the gearbox).
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DSKRALL
Scorp 508,
Thanks Brian. If OD damage is limited to the clutches, and the owner doesn't care about having OD, then simply using direct drive is the most logical solution of all. I assume the T10 is a rugged unit that will work for a long time with proper care.
David
Thanks Brian. If OD damage is limited to the clutches, and the owner doesn't care about having OD, then simply using direct drive is the most logical solution of all. I assume the T10 is a rugged unit that will work for a long time with proper care.
David
2. I don't know if anyone already makes this, but I think it would be nice to simply replace a damaged OD with a direct drive tail shaft and housing assembly specific to the C4. This would be much less expensive than replacing the entire transmission.
David
Le Mans Master
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From: Australia
" it would be nice to simply replace a damaged OD with a direct drive tail shaft and housing assembly specific to the C4"
The tailshaft housing is only there to support the output shaft and provide a mount for the trans.A standard T10 tailshaft housing could be adapted to fit a C4 , but you would still need a new output shaft as the C4 T10 has a short output shaft that drives the O/d unit which has it's own output shaft to the yoke.
The tailshaft housing is only there to support the output shaft and provide a mount for the trans.A standard T10 tailshaft housing could be adapted to fit a C4 , but you would still need a new output shaft as the C4 T10 has a short output shaft that drives the O/d unit which has it's own output shaft to the yoke.
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Rodj, thats a helluva lot of effort to make your car semifuctional. Why not just buy the overdrive rebuild kit for $150 and put in new clutches?
On a side note...I can't wait till this election is over and you get rid of that ugly avatar Scorp.. It frightens me.
On a side note...I can't wait till this election is over and you get rid of that ugly avatar Scorp.. It frightens me.
Team Owner
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by frank j. moran
yes, if you follow the manual it is not too difficult..
They show a different part number for 84-85 and 86-88.
Do any of you know what the difference is? I'd hate to rebuild my OD with the crappy pre-86 thrust washer if the other kit works perfectly.
Team Owner
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by frank j. moran
yes, if you follow the manual it is not too difficult..
They show a different part number for 84-85 and 86-88.
Do any of you know what the difference is? I'd hate to rebuild my OD with the crappy pre-86 thrust washer if the other kit fits.