Is this normal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 873
Likes: 2
From: Whittier ca
Is this normal
Jacked up my 91 this PM to check exhaust leak. I found that but noticed both rear wheels have about 3/32" endplay at 12 & 6 and about 1/16" at 3 & 9. Tore down everything to the hub. No leaks, no visable wear, no movement without the wheel attached. The u-joints all look and feel tight, no rust or other junk. All the rubber is new (dog bones and strut arms) as are shocks. Checked the inside of the wheels, rotor and hub for buildup and they were clean (a little rusty from the rain recently).
There is 122,000+ miles on the clock. I haven't changed the rear hubs since I've had it (5 years and put about 40,000 on it) but don't know the previous history on maintainence.
So, is this kind of end play normal?
TIA
Subman
There is 122,000+ miles on the clock. I haven't changed the rear hubs since I've had it (5 years and put about 40,000 on it) but don't know the previous history on maintainence.
So, is this kind of end play normal?
TIA
Subman
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 873
Likes: 2
From: Whittier ca
Thanks Bogus - is there a way to double check bearing/hubs to confirm myself BEFORE I throw more $$ at it? I don't mind if it's really necessary but I hate doing it just because.
Subman
Subman
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,163
Likes: 61
From: NH
St. Jude Donor '14
You'll have to search for the recommended advice, but I know that grabbing the wheel at 9-3 and checking for play indicates a problem with one part (either ujoint or wheel bearings) and 12-6 indicates the other one (I don't remember which is which).
-Joe
-Joe
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 762
Likes: 2
From: Huntington ma
IF everything else is tight - bottom front to upper rear (on the tire) play/wobble can indicate excessive side yoke end play in the differential. This will significantly add to the tendency to "tramline", or follow ruts. Remember that the driveshaft is a stressed locating link in this rear suspension. Get a dial indicator on the inboard yokes and use a pry bar to find the movement - the spec is basically Zero allowable (something like .0005 to .002 or similar). It's set using spacer retaining clips (available from a dealer as a kit - even fairly cheap) - on the Inside (the diff has to come apart). Having it right will make a huge difference in how the car drives!
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 873
Likes: 2
From: Whittier ca
Thanks to all -
Now, making an assumption that I'm gonna hafta replace the bearing hubs, where to buy and which version?
Did a search and Pep Boys keeps cropping up at about $150.00
Checked the usual parts suppliers (quick links on the left) and they ran from $149.00 to $329.00 for GM OEM. I have not checked my usual parts guy (AutoZone) yet.
I did find a OEM with and with out speed sensor plug ($249.00 and $279.00). Can I take the speed sensor stuff off of the old hubs and put them on the new stuff?
One thing I did notice in my search was that one of the Torx bolts is a PITA. Either the bit wasn't long enough or the space wasn't enough to get a good pull. I just bought a 4" 45 Torx with a ball head to help with replacing the injectors on a friends 88. Would a 4" 55 Torx ball head make it easier to get to that odd bolt. Or is it just easier to take off the whole knuckle?
I know. Questions. Questions. Questions.
Thanks for the help.
Subman
Now, making an assumption that I'm gonna hafta replace the bearing hubs, where to buy and which version?
Did a search and Pep Boys keeps cropping up at about $150.00
Checked the usual parts suppliers (quick links on the left) and they ran from $149.00 to $329.00 for GM OEM. I have not checked my usual parts guy (AutoZone) yet.
I did find a OEM with and with out speed sensor plug ($249.00 and $279.00). Can I take the speed sensor stuff off of the old hubs and put them on the new stuff?
One thing I did notice in my search was that one of the Torx bolts is a PITA. Either the bit wasn't long enough or the space wasn't enough to get a good pull. I just bought a 4" 45 Torx with a ball head to help with replacing the injectors on a friends 88. Would a 4" 55 Torx ball head make it easier to get to that odd bolt. Or is it just easier to take off the whole knuckle?
I know. Questions. Questions. Questions.
Thanks for the help.
Subman
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 762
Likes: 2
From: Huntington ma
I did the rear bearings (hub bearings) on mine this summer - not all that bad a job as long as you don't try to short cut it. I took off the lower (camber) links and then the half shafts. Then the brakes, including the backing plates and parking assy's (it's an '85). Getting to all of the three Torx bolts that hold the bearings wasn't a real problem, and they weren't really all that tight that they would have been an issue. Getting the outer nut that holds the stub axle into the bearing was the worst of it - those puppies were Tight! All the breaker bar I had and a 6' piece of heavy pipe... I bent the breaker bar before they were both loose.... (tip - do it with the tires still on the ground if you can - if you can get to the nut through the center of the wheels. The center opening in my snow wheels/tires is big enough). Can't help you with the speed sensor question - mine doesn't have them - but most likely you need to buy the bearings that have the "gear", you won't be able to make the cheaper ones work...