replacing right hand header gasket... Help??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Beverly, NJ
replacing right hand header gasket... Help??
I suspect that my header gaskets are leaking on my 86. When I installed them, I discharged the a/c system, removed evaporator, fan, and entire housing, along with the brace on passenger side. Is there an alternative to taking the evaporator housing out, and discharging the system? There is no way that I can get my hand back there for the last bolt right near firewall on header. I just bought Percy's auminum header gaskets, and I want them installed before I go to Englishtown on Saturday. Help please.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Cape Cod Ma
You could have unbolted the AC compressor and tied it out of the way. The lines are flexible enough. I never had any problems with the last bolt on the pass. or drivers header/ exhaust manifold. Maybee an opened end wrench? or a u-joint on a ratchet? You can get it out though.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Don't remove all that stuff. I've had the headers off both sides of the '88 and only had to slide the A/C compressor floward. Even using the stock 3-piece gaskets it wasn't a tough job. In fact, if your gasket is notched front & back, don't even remove that last bolt, just loosen it.
Try a 6pt or 12pt box end wrench on that back bolt; to install the bolt slide one hand back under the mafinold and the other in over it. If you have iron heads and the bolt resists, hit it with some PB Blaster and let it stand overnight.
A pair of forceps (or magnetic wand, if the bolt isn's SS) might come in handy to get that bolt back into the header flange too.
Good luck and see ya at Raceway Park this Sat.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Beverly, NJ
Originally Posted by 65Z01
Don't remove all that stuff. I've had the headers off both sides of the '88 and only had to slide the A/C compressor floward. Even using the stock 3-piece gaskets it wasn't a tough job. In fact, if your gasket is notched front & back, don't even remove that last bolt, just loosen it.
Try a 6pt or 12pt box end wrench on that back bolt; to install the bolt slide one hand back under the mafinold and the other in over it. If you have iron heads and the bolt resists, hit it with some PB Blaster and let it stand overnight.
A pair of forceps (or magnetic wand, if the bolt isn's SS) might come in handy to get that bolt back into the header flange too.
Good luck and see ya at Raceway Park this Sat.
Last time when I installed these headers, I found it impossible to get back there to that bolt. It ended up leaking real bad since I could not get it tight. The primary coming from the rear exhaust port is so damn close to the plastic evaporator housing. Then one day I took it back out, put a Mr. Gasket cheap gasket on, and tried forcing the header back into position on the head a little. I ended up cracking the side of the evaporator housing closest to the engine. Now the damn exhaust leak was leaking into my car through the vents. I had to replace the entire piece closest to engine because of that. I just don't want to go through the same trouble again becasue of the primary being in my way. I tried every wrench and socket combination I could think of. Now that I got the percy aluminum gaskets, I want to make sure there are no exhaust leaks this time. The a/c compressor was never in the way, it is the very back bolt near firewall on passenger side that is a pita. I can't even get my hand anywhere near it, thats how tight it is. I can't believe I am the only one that has had this problem. What am I not thinking of? I will see you all on saturday of course. How will I know who you all are when I get there??
Scott
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
My bad, didn't notice you have Hookers; I was thinking of stock headers.
I feel your pain though; my IROC has Edelbrock headers and that same area bolt takes me about 2hrs to remove & replace and was the souce of many leaks.
On Sat. it will be easy to ID me as I'll be the only 35th there and have "65Z01" on the top center of my hatch glass.
Now if the rain just holds off till I get rid of those dragging front brakes maybe I can pick up a mph or two.
I feel your pain though; my IROC has Edelbrock headers and that same area bolt takes me about 2hrs to remove & replace and was the souce of many leaks.
On Sat. it will be easy to ID me as I'll be the only 35th there and have "65Z01" on the top center of my hatch glass.
Now if the rain just holds off till I get rid of those dragging front brakes maybe I can pick up a mph or two.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 3
From: Reading PA.
I know I had trouble with that bolt also when I put my headers on. So I got the little kid down the street to come up and turn it in as far as it would go. It only cost me a large ice cream cone from the softee man and then ground down an old box wrench really thin and heated it up with a torch and bent it in a L shape and tightened it an eighth turn at a time. Was still a PAIN but it's in nice and tight. GOOD LUCK
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Beverly, NJ
Originally Posted by Curveit
I assume you've also tried going from the bottom. I have better access to some bolts, and all plugs that way.(Hedman 1 5/8")
