Would it be crazy?
As it sits my car runs heads / cam / headers and makes some 382 rwhp. It's stupid fast, but as we all know that's never fast enough. I absolutely love the LT1 but I've run out of ways to make more horsepower short of ramming air down it's throat. Now turbo's are cost prohibitive because there are no true bolt on kits. This leaves the only viable option in my mind to a Vortech Supercharger kit.
I don't like ATI for several reasons that I won't get into, but regardless of who makes the kit you run into the same problems.
The bolt on kits are all designed for low boost, maybe 6-8 pounds maximum. On an otherwise stock engine this is supposed to be fairly reliable.
My question is this.... How badly would my existing mods adversely affect the supercharger. My static compression ratio is approximately the same as it always was. With the cam though my dynamic compression will actually be less than stock. As such the more I think about it the more I think it might actually take the same boost level even a little bit better than the stocker.
Whatcha think about a blower on a stock bottom end with heads / cam?





I will promise that if I win the PowerBall... every forum member will be getting blowers on me!!!
I'm interested in hearing if your concept on the hotcam being a good blower cam is correct or not. I'm no expert, but I'd like to do all of the mods that you have done and also eventually add a blower... but I ain't made of $$$ either. Anyone else want to chime in???
He left, probably not wanting to hear what he just heard, but oh well. I told Dad, he will not make it past today with that setup. It did not take long to prove my point. Very next run down, he blew the motor. White smoke POURED out of the exhaust - later learned the entire motor was toast.
At the end of the day, as I have said before there are NO free lunches in this sport. If your going to do something - do it right. Take shortcuts or start off on another tangent - you might get get away cheap for the time being, but you will pay later.
Conversly corky told me about a guy he met this past weekend at the strip, running a 355 CI motor, stock steel crank, decent pistons, in a stock block. Corky said the car left so hard it was nearly instantly on the back bumper. Come to learn the guy was leaving on a 400 shot of nitrous and then an additional 200 shot once he was moving!!! Corky said the front did not touch down till the 330' mark!
Ran something like mid 9s on it. He can fill in the details. But upon talking to the guy, he said he's been doing that for 2 years now with no problems.
Now either he's not telling the truth ( the guy with the car) or he's one lucky SOB. At any rate, that is probably not the normal outcome of what I would call taking a shortcut.
Otherwise it doesn't seem worth it unless you rebuild the block with forged internals and lower compression so you could add really big boost. Reading about other guy's cars, the LT1/4 stock bottom end motors produce poor results even if they don't blow up.
I love the setup on my supercharged Buick, but that kind of blower won't fit under the hood of a C4.
Naturally in an ideal situation I'd build a low compression stroker motor, the stroke would make up for the low compression and the blower would make the top end power.
I'm wondering though about reasonable boost levels. I don't need ultra hp, just about an extra 100 hp would be good.
I think the biggest problem people have with forced induction is that lack of knowledge and rational thought. I watche a friend bolt a supercharger onto his 2003 Mustang and fight it forever. They didn't actually make a bolt on kit, so he used a 2002 kit. Well the fuel system was different. All he did was throw parts at the problem when all he really needed was to tune the computer.
Had he taken half the effort he put into bolting on crap he could have learned how to tune the computer and fix his problems. He eventually sold the car, with it running very poorly. I seriously have my doubts as to if that engine is running today.
IMHO if you did it right you could be OK. For example take the tune and strip most of the timing out of it and make it go VERY fat on the fuel, remember rich is safe. Then get it on they dyno with a wideband and monitor it very carefully. The instant it starts to go lean, let off and adjust the tune. Work with it until the A/F ratio is OK and then start playing with the timing, creaping up on it slowly.
I wouldn't dream to think that I could just bolt on a blower with my current tune and not blast the pistons into a million pieces, the timing is way to aggressive for that.
Stupidity and impatience is the biggest drawback when dealing with forced induction. I did have one friend however who took a logical approach and worked slowly and carefully on his Mustang. That car made stupid power and was very reliable.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I kinda wondered what might happen when I put boost on top of high compression, now I know. It gave me an excuse to build a 383 with forged internals and 9:1 instead of 10.5, but I sure could have used that money someplace else.
I kinda wondered what might happen when I put boost on top of high compression, now I know. It gave me an excuse to build a 383 with forged internals and 9:1 instead of 10.5, but I sure could have used that money someplace else.
Naturally in an ideal situation I'd build a low compression stroker motor, the stroke would make up for the low compression and the blower would make the top end power.
I'm wondering though about reasonable boost levels. I don't need ultra hp, just about an extra 100 hp would be good.
The LT1 is already a fairly high compression engine at 10.6 on pump gas, with pistons that are not built to take more than a static setup. Which is why so many blow up.
If I'm getting on the interstate and I need to beat that semi, I don't need to open my bottle, turn on the heater, purge it, blah, blah, blah.
Nitrous is great horsepower for the track, but not at all practical for street use.
If I'm getting on the interstate and I need to beat that semi, I don't need to open my bottle, turn on the heater, purge it, blah, blah, blah.
Nitrous is great horsepower for the track, but not at all practical for street use.
the way i see it you have 2 options
1) throw on a 125hp nos kit and get a fill station. about $700 total
2) either rebuild your short block and reduce you comp ratio to 8.75/1 by changing pistons. or change heads to get 8.75/1 comp ratio. either way you go your looking at around 5k...with blower..
running a blower on a 10/1 + engine like ski said is just a waste of time and money not to mention a time bomb.
i have around the same hp as you and with a totaly stock bottom end and 11/1 cr i run a 150 wet shot. i monitor very closely after each bottle i go threw and ive seen no signs of anything unusual.. i also have a innovate afr meter to watch my afr very closly. i shoot for 11.5/1 with the spray.
the bottom line... how often do you need 500rwhp on the street. yes i know what your saying about wanting it there all the time but at what cost. not including the cost of tickets.
when you have your own filling station you basicly hold you hand on the button all the time.
good luck with your decision

http://www.bankspower.com/twin-turbo-products.cfm
This would be MY preference, ahhh maybe someday.
http://www.bankspower.com/twin-turbo-products.cfm
This would be MY preference, ahhh maybe someday.
They don't show if it's available for the LT1 tho...
I think a supercharger could work on your engine with proper engine management & intercooler.....if done right wouldn't screw up driveability....would certainly push you way over 400rwhp
Your point that a supercharger is always there....very easy to use....means you stress engine more frequently so...
I like the idea of supercharging, but kind of pricey....
Have you consider other ways of getting hp to the ground.....aluminum flywheel, lighter damper, lighter wheels, lighter driveshaft, and jeez I have to say it..58mm tb....
Last edited by LT4BUD; Nov 18, 2004 at 08:01 AM.
















