When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you change the springs to the bee hive from comp cams ,No problem.
But the lt4 motor has 10.8.1 compression,if you are running a stick should run 12's with no problem.
You have an lt1 with auto with this set up you should pull 12.70 with no problem if you reprogram your computer.
With tuner cats or even hypertech it can be done easly.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; Nov 19, 2004 at 02:10 AM.
At one time More Performance had a link on their web site about this. If memory serves me, they had headers, 52mm throttle body and tuning and got 429hp at the flywheel.
That kit has stock, unported LT4 heads. For less money you can get ported LT1 heads, which will out perform those that come in the kit. Of course if you then had the LT4 heads ported they would perform better still. It's all about the $$ you want to spend.
Key to this kit is the LT4 manifold. So you have the higher ports all around. It has the LT4 heads so that includes the extra valve train goodies you would get with the Hot Cam kit for the LT1. Including springs that will handle the lift and revs.
You would still be lacking some of the internal goodies that are in the LT4 block, but this is a good bolt on upgrade.
Send out the heads for porting before assembly and it will do more than any heads/cam LT1 can do, maybe 450+ crank.
Okay... I have an LT4 and I know that it is claimed to be severly underrated... but can I really expect a 100hp jump just by adding a hot cam?
Seriously.... I already have the LT4 heads and intake so all I'd need is a cam to push a 'proven' 425hp?
See my sig line for all my mods. Baseline was 300rwhp. Exhaust and misc bolt-ons put me around 315. Adding just the cam and my tuning bumped it to 342. With a mild porting job on the heads, the electric water pump, and some more tuning I got 363. This is all on a Dynojet dyno and with 4.10 gears. Depending on what driveline loss factor you believe, 363 equates to 425 to 440hp at the crank.
I pulled 324hp/325tq with the basic bolt-ons in my sig - K&N, LT headers, Corsa. That's pretty much it. Assuming a 15% drivetrain loss, that's around 380 at the crank. I don't see why another 45hp isn't possible with some more upgrades (cam, etc.) and tuning.
More HP does not always = quicker ET at the strip.... A car can go on a dyno & show 425 HP but still run 13's
Dyno # are only an indicator of the cars "potential" performance.. My car has had NO engine work at ALL with the exception of GM 1.6 RR
it still has the stock LT1 cam, stock exhaust manifolds & still has the cats on it.. I did use muffler eliminators, went to a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears & a 3000 converter...
I also have a Hypertech with a 160 thermostat.. I have run a best of 12.28 at over 110mph
IMO a lot of HP will give you high MPH in the 1/4 mile.. but chassis set up will give you better QUICKER ET's
and ET is what wins races not MPH (I'm speaking of 1/4 mile only)
The price I for that kit was over $2,000 I have only the price of Roller Rockers in my motor..
Where did you find the FREE 3:73 gears, 3000 rpm stall converter and 160* thermostat?
Duhhhhh Ya got me there... your correct, The converter was $650.. & the rear ran me over $1200 But I was originally speaking of MOTOR only...The converter & gears are the "main" reason I can run those #s
I guess what I'm trying to say is you really dont need a "High HP" car to run mid 12's
More HP does not always = quicker ET at the strip.... A car can go on a dyno & show 425 HP but still run 13's
My car has had NO engine work at ALL with the exception of GM 1.6 RR
it still has the stock LT1 cam, stock exhaust manifolds & still has the cats on it.. I did use muffler eliminators, went to a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears & a 3000 converter...
I also have a Hypertech with a 160 thermostat.. I have run a best of 12.28 at over 110mph
It's true, and it's disgusting. It's called an automatic transmission and a high stall torque converter, probably sticky tires too.
Take that same car to the road course and a 6-spd would run circles around it. Don't feel bad if you can't get the same track time as an auto with the same horsepower, it's just part of the game.
IMHO I could get a faster track time with an auto but I'd be bored to tears driving my car on the street every day, so I stick with my 6-spd.
It's all in what you want to do with the car.
A friend of mine has a 93 Z-28 with a turbo 350, he makes less horsepower than me. He'll have me by half a second at the 60' mark, but I'll drive past him on the big end because of the horsepower difference. Horsepower wins in a straight line IF the race is long enough. It just so happens that sometimes that 1/4 mile track isn't long enough.