Well looks like I am in need of a new MAF.What can I expect to gain from a high pref maf verses a stock maf and where is the best place to buy.

 

Do not buy anything labeled as a "high performance MAF"

Buy a brand new one, expect to pay $250-275, and then take out the screens. Do NOT touch the sensor element inside the MAF.

 

I've got the Granatelli high perf. maf. Doesn't work real good. It basically has a circuit board standing vertically in it. So there is no connection to the burn off relay. Can't get the car to run when warming up, goes wild. I got another new stock Bosch from Mid America and removed the screens. $319.99 .. They call it ACDelco, but Bosch makes it.

 

Thanks for the replies.I can get a new GM MAF for 312.00 which is dealer cost.I called Autozone and they have reman MAF for 162.00 with 90 day warranty.Anybody used these reman MAF with any luck?

 

You haven't told us why you need a "new one"!

Sometimes it is only the Maf Relays that need to be replaced

Jack

 

I took my car to the mechanic that I use and he tested the MAF and said it was bad.He is a GM certified tech that works on my cars at his home.What are systems of bad MAF?I do have somewhat of a rough idle and my gas milage seems to have gone to crap.

 

The MAF has two related elements, the power relay and the burn off relay. If the power relay is bad, the MAF will not perform properly. The relays are a lot cheaper than a MAF and if you buy and install a new MAF and that isn't the problem then you are out hundreds of bucks

There are several ways to "test" the MAF. With engine idling, tap it hard but no too hard, with a screwdriver handle! If the idle improves, then it may be the MAF

Also, disconnect the MAF, start the engine, if it runs better it may be the MAF

Let me stop here and ask a question! Have you or your mechanic actually hooked up a scanner to the ADL and gotten some readings on what is actually happening as the engine is running? If your mechanic hasn't, he should.

Back to the thread! Lot's of things can cause a rough idle, including a bad or dirty IAC motor. That's Idle Air control moter and it is the same as the old Idle air control setting on your former carbuerator except now it is motorized and moves in and out in response to engine conditions.

Poor fuel mileage can also be caused by several things, bad MAF or Bad MAF circuitry (relays) or dirty throttle body(sorry to introduce a new element here) or a bad IAC or as I found when I was fighting these electrical gremlins last fall and spring....

Simply bad grounds and positive terminal connections! The voltages to all the different scanners in the system are critical and "bad" grounds or positive terminals will affect the voltages

Fortunately I purchased a scanner and was able to trace down some problems without throwing big bucks at replacement parts hoping they would solve the problems

Yes I did need to replace the IAC and the MAF relays, but the rest of my problems with bad idle, gas mileage, etc. were solved when I cleaned all the electrical connections!

Not trying to confuse or compound your situation, but you can read a zillion posts here from people who poured big bucks into replacement parts without fully realizing what the problems where

Jack