C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

hot cam

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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 11:18 AM
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is it my misundersanding or can i slid a hot cam in to my lt4 and drive it ?will i need tuning or reprograming. how mutch labor hrs for a pro to install. i am concidering a purchase of one. trying to put info together. i have open air box and corsas. long tubes will go on at the same time as cam trying to figure it all out thanks.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by redvette6spd
is it my misundersanding or can i slid a hot cam in to my lt4 and drive it ?will i need tuning or reprograming. how mutch labor hrs for a pro to install. i am concidering a purchase of one. trying to put info together. i have open air box and corsas. long tubes will go on at the same time as cam trying to figure it all out thanks.

Yes, you can just "slide" it in. But I would highly recommend you replace the springs when you do the cam. While you can run it without any PCM programming, to realize all the benefits from the cam you should have it reprogrammed. As for labor time, doing it in the car my guess or estimate would be around 14 to 16 hours. I consider myself a pro with all the right tools and it took me a long weekend to do the job. However my car has a blower which complicated matters a lot. That time also included replacing the springs. If you don't do the springs you could cut off about 2 hours.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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another note, if you are going to have the pro do the install and they will charge you 12-14 hrs of labor. Since the heads gotta come off any way. I would take advantage of having the heads ported/polished.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 08:55 PM
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The LT4 Hot Cam was designed specifically for the LT4 engine. Although replacing the valve springs certainly wouldn't hurt, it is not required. The LT4 is already set up with everything needed to run the Hot Cam and no other parts are absolutely required.

As for the PCM, tuning will certainly make it run better, but again it was designed with the LT4 in mind. If money is an issue the car will run just fine until you can afford to get it tuned.

The cam swap on an LTx Corvette is not particularly hard, just involved.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce
Since the heads gotta come off any way.
No need to pull the heads for a cam swap.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 11:39 PM
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You can 'slide it in' and run with it... but a good tune will maximize power gains... book time for the project is 13 hours and I believe it requires lifting the motor to get the cam to slide in properly <I think... I know the 13hr part to be true>.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kwik_ta
You can 'slide it in' and run with it... but a good tune will maximize power gains... book time for the project is 13 hours and I believe it requires lifting the motor to get the cam to slide in properly <I think... I know the 13hr part to be true>.
The cam will not clear the front cross member while everything is bolted solid. I usually unbolt the torque arm but I have been told that removing the motor mount bolts will allow the engine to come up enough to get the cam out.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
The LT4 Hot Cam was designed specifically for the LT4 engine. Although replacing the valve springs certainly wouldn't hurt, it is not required. The LT4 is already set up with everything needed to run the Hot Cam and no other parts are absolutely required.
So this brings me to add to redvettes question..is it worth it?? Taking a stock or lightly modded LT4 and replacing with the hot cam only and NO OTHER mods (i.e. springs,PCM tuning etc) what gains are expected??
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 12:00 AM
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I installed a Hot Cam kit in my LT1 along with an electric water pump and a custom computer chip and picked up 44 rear wheel horsepower, taking me from 269 to 313. The LT4 already has 1.6:1 roller rocker arms so the major benefit there is negated. He is also not talking about an electric water pump, so you can subtract off about 7. My computer chip was a guess from a mail order tuner, as such I can say that his stock LT4 program will be just as good. Mass Airflow Cars do a very good job of tuning themselves for wide open throttle performance anyway.

Consider that the LT4 has a more efficient cylinder head and intake setup than the LT1 and you just added a few ponies back on top. I wouldn't really expect 44 horsepower, but 30-35 would not be out of the question at all. I don't know of any other way to add that much horsepower for $200
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 12:07 AM
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the labor thing is a killer if i decide to open up the front if my motor and do the cam will there be trouble with oil leakes a buddy did it now he got a leaker says it comon another thing i am not planing on racing the car just the ocasional aggressive outburst for adrenalin purpuses only just want to enjoy the car thanks for all the information

Last edited by redvette6spd; Nov 28, 2004 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Consider that the LT4 has a more efficient cylinder head and intake setup than the LT1 and you just added a few ponies back on top. I wouldn't really expect 44 horsepower, but 30-35 would not be out of the question at all. I don't know of any other way to add that much horsepower for $200
Great point, Nathan... Very true. But for those of us who don't/can't do our own work, it's not adding that much power for $200 - it's adding that much power for $200 + 13hr. labor. For me, labor is $92/hr, so that works out to be $1196 (plus the original 200 = 1396). Now...is that still a *very* worthwhile mod to do if you're able to? YES. Is it necessarily cheap? No...
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Perfusion
For me, labor is $92/hr
dang I thought that's why I sold my Porsche!

the last time anyone charged me $92/hr was in New Orleans for a massage
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 06:24 AM
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Guys, will he have any problems passing an emissions test ?
Will programming be a must if he has to?
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:44 AM
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My LT4 responded well to the cam, headers, corsa and 52mm TB. I ended up with 343 RWHP and 335 torque after the final addition of the adjustable fuel pressure regulator set at 43psi idle.

I was running with the stock program during that last pull. However, I have since used a little tuning from the LT1 edit software but have not dynoed yet. I probably won't. The vette is strong and well mannered.

I might note that with the 48mm TB I got only 330 HP. I then switched to a BBK 52mm TB while strapped on the dyno and picked up another 10 HP to 340 using stock Fuel regulator. I have since had the original TB bored out to 52mm by Koldos. But personally, the airfoil that I also got did not do any better than the BBK without one.

If you want to run stock programming, you may want to up the ignition advance to 18 below 400 and 22 below 800 rpm to avoid setting misfire at idle. But then, if you change the idle advance, you may as well put in a few more things!
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Perfusion
Great point, Nathan... Very true. But for those of us who don't/can't do our own work, it's not adding that much power for $200 - it's adding that much power for $200 + 13hr. labor. For me, labor is $92/hr, so that works out to be $1196 (plus the original 200 = 1396). Now...is that still a *very* worthwhile mod to do if you're able to? YES. Is it necessarily cheap? No...
I do feel I am fairly mechanically inclined..but a cam swap is out of my relm of comfort. I'll go with the N20 for $600 and add 100HP
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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well when they say 100 shot of nitrous its not exactly 100 hp its less and its also not at the wheels!
nathan was talking about 30-40 RWHP!!! not crank or flywheel!
the cam is very easy with the right tools and a haynes manual!

simple remove intake ducting, water pump, crank pulley and hub, timing cover, timing gear and old cam! also to get it it remove the radiator shroud so you can drop it in!

does anyone know if you have to remove the intake to do it?
thanks alot your friend
Sean
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 05:24 PM
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also plan to pay abut $400-$600 to get the N20 installed right!
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by redbullapril23
...does anyone know if you have to remove the intake to do it?
thanks alot your friend
Sean
Yes, you have to remove the intake because you have to pull out the lifters to replace the cam.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by southern_son
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I might note that with the 48mm TB I got only 330 HP. I then switched to a BBK 52mm TB while strapped on the dyno and picked up another 10 HP to 340 using stock Fuel regulator.
This would have been great info in another post about TB's and gains yesterday. I stated then the only realy way was to stick the car on a dyno and see what if any gains where to be had. There has been a lot of opinions on the whole TB thing and very little back to back test to back any of the claims made. So here is one combo that looks like it does benifit from going from 48mm to 52mm. Great info
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
This would have been great info in another post about TB's and gains yesterday. I stated then the only realy way was to stick the car on a dyno and see what if any gains where to be had. There has been a lot of opinions on the whole TB thing and very little back to back test to back any of the claims made. So here is one combo that looks like it does benifit from going from 48mm to 52mm. Great info
I have posted this information several times over the last several months. Unfortunately, so many here post information that they have gotten through hearsay and espouse it as truth as though they have personally had experience with it. I despise bad information!!! It costs money and time! I hope some gain a little better insight by my experience as many here have helped me many times! pass it on.....
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