To stroke it or not?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
From: Madison Mississippi
To stroke it or not?
Here is the situation...I am getting a wierd noise in the oil pan. It sounds like a loose wrist pin or piston slap. Well, the front seal is leaking and the heads are comming off this winter anyways so.... I think it is a good time to pull er out and stroke it. My question is.... Will It be better to stroke it or just re-build it ? I already have the hot cam, The 1.6 RR's and the Azotto chip bolt on stuff. I am planning on doing the heads, long tubes and frontseal/oil pan this winter but lately, this lower-end noise presented itself and I am wondering if it just wouldn't be easier to pull that mother out and do all of it at once while it is bolted to a motor stand. So, do I stroke it too? or do I just do the necessary re-build stuff and port the heads. It already lights-up the 315's at 35mph thanks to the 3.73 gears and I am wondering if I am taking it too far. Once I stroke it then I will need the stall convertor etc. Any takers on this. I don't want to blow a good opportunity to build it but also, I don't want to over build it either. Money really isn't the issue here. I just want to have a great street car. 
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
When in doubt, stroke it out.
The only thing needed to stroke it, in addition to an overhaul would be the crank, flywheel, and damper. The pistons are a different item, but you'll be buying them, anyway, if it needs to be bored.
RACE ON!!!
The only thing needed to stroke it, in addition to an overhaul would be the crank, flywheel, and damper. The pistons are a different item, but you'll be buying them, anyway, if it needs to be bored.
RACE ON!!!
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Stroke it and start saving for a Dana 44. BTW isn't an auto a hell of a lot easier on the drive train then a 6 speed?
RACE ON!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 8,183
Likes: 3
From: Santa Maria, CA
If you pull the shortblock, by the time you freshen the stock crank and rods, a 355 will be close in price to a cast 383. Might as well 383 it.
I rebuilt my stock longblock to 355 cid, put on 20K miles,
2 hyperuetectic pistons broke, pulled it all back out and stroked it.
Let us know what you go with
I rebuilt my stock longblock to 355 cid, put on 20K miles,
2 hyperuetectic pistons broke, pulled it all back out and stroked it.
Let us know what you go with
Last edited by pablocruise; Dec 19, 2004 at 09:02 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Originally Posted by RUBYREDVETTECARD
Here is the situation...I am getting a wierd noise in the oil pan. It sounds like a loose wrist pin or piston slap. Well, the front seal is leaking and the heads are comming off this winter anyways so.... I think it is a good time to pull er out and stroke it. My question is.... Will It be better to stroke it or just re-build it ? I already have the hot cam, The 1.6 RR's and the Azotto chip bolt on stuff. I am planning on doing the heads, long tubes and frontseal/oil pan this winter but lately, this lower-end noise presented itself and I am wondering if it just wouldn't be easier to pull that mother out and do all of it at once while it is bolted to a motor stand. So, do I stroke it too? or do I just do the necessary re-build stuff and port the heads. It already lights-up the 315's at 35mph thanks to the 3.73 gears and I am wondering if I am taking it too far. Once I stroke it then I will need the stall convertor etc. Any takers on this. I don't want to blow a good opportunity to build it but also, I don't want to over build it either. Money really isn't the issue here. I just want to have a great street car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by cprgmr
If money isn't an issue, stroke that sucker out to a forged 396 and buy GoodYear stock!
Your D36 would live fine if you don't abuse it. If you plan on drag racing a lot with slicks. You may as well start thinking about a D44. But if its primarily street use then I don't see a problem especially with street tires. There are plenty of F bodies out there with the weak 10 bolts running low 11's with an A4 and they live. I would tend to think that the D36 is a stronger rear end than that weak factory F body rear end.
I say stroke it to your liking. An Eagle stroker kit can be had for cheap these days. CNC port your heads do a decent cam and have fun, besides its Christmas, do it for yourself!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
That is exactly why the manuals come with the 44 and the autos come with the 36.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Exactly, the 36 should be fine for a good while as long as street tires are so even if the car is an auto it should be good to go with a 383 but saving for a 44 is still a good idea.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 812
Likes: 1
From: Sherman Texas
OK.. Here is my opinion...
I am in the same situation, and was asking myself (and others) the same questions you are.. Here is my decision and why...
I chose to build a 355, LT4 heads, hot cam, 11:1, blueprint, .etc.., over the 383...
Reasons:
1. I can't get traction now on the street with the D44 and 3.73's. Since I mainly drive on the street (almost exclusivly), I felt that the extra torque the 383 produces would just equal extra dollars on tires.
2. Texas gets hot, and I was not sure about keeping a 383 cool without spending Mega $$$$'s on the cooling system.. I do like to drive hard during the summer.
3. I've seen lots of vettes run in the 11's without the 383.. That's just fast for a street car.. Of course it's never fast enough
4. 700r4.. Already tore up one with the stock motor. I put quite a bit in the rebuild, but extra low end would probably still eat it up IF I ever caught traction..
On the other hand.. It is only a few extra bucks to build the stroker. Just remember small things like larger injectors, new fuel pump, cooling system upgrades, and programming.
Not saying don't do it, just telling you why I decided not too.
Chris
I am in the same situation, and was asking myself (and others) the same questions you are.. Here is my decision and why...
I chose to build a 355, LT4 heads, hot cam, 11:1, blueprint, .etc.., over the 383...
Reasons:
1. I can't get traction now on the street with the D44 and 3.73's. Since I mainly drive on the street (almost exclusivly), I felt that the extra torque the 383 produces would just equal extra dollars on tires.
2. Texas gets hot, and I was not sure about keeping a 383 cool without spending Mega $$$$'s on the cooling system.. I do like to drive hard during the summer.
3. I've seen lots of vettes run in the 11's without the 383.. That's just fast for a street car.. Of course it's never fast enough
4. 700r4.. Already tore up one with the stock motor. I put quite a bit in the rebuild, but extra low end would probably still eat it up IF I ever caught traction..
On the other hand.. It is only a few extra bucks to build the stroker. Just remember small things like larger injectors, new fuel pump, cooling system upgrades, and programming.
Not saying don't do it, just telling you why I decided not too.
Chris
Last edited by thmupr; Dec 20, 2004 at 12:42 AM. Reason: notification