C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Coolant PROBLEMS:Please advise...

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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 12:34 AM
  #21  
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I buy my gaskets separately so that I can pick only the ones I need and the specific ones I want to use.

NAPA sells the runner gaskets - both upper and lower - in a kit and I go with those, rather than having to buy kits that include other gaskets I don't want or need.

Doing it the "separate" way allows me to choose the intake gaskets I want too.

When I know in advance I'm going to tackle such a project, I order my gaskets from PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse); they have the best prices I've found and service has always been excellent. Unfortunately, PAW's catalog is so large (like a big city's telephone book) that it's not available online but they have a HUGE inventory. They virtually always have what I need in stock.

My second choice is Summit Racing which is like a fall-back position when, in the rare event, PAW doesn't have what I need.

There are different ways to attack parts selection, I've just found the way I go about it suits me best.

Hope this helps.

Jake
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 11:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
I buy my gaskets separately so that I can pick only the ones I need and the specific ones I want to use.

NAPA sells the runner gaskets - both upper and lower - in a kit and I go with those, rather than having to buy kits that include other gaskets I don't want or need.

Doing it the "separate" way allows me to choose the intake gaskets I want too.

When I know in advance I'm going to tackle such a project, I order my gaskets from PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse); they have the best prices I've found and service has always been excellent. Unfortunately, PAW's catalog is so large (like a big city's telephone book) that it's not available online but they have a HUGE inventory. They virtually always have what I need in stock.

My second choice is Summit Racing which is like a fall-back position when, in the rare event, PAW doesn't have what I need.

There are different ways to attack parts selection, I've just found the way I go about it suits me best.

Hope this helps.

Jake
thanks agin Jake, you have most infromative with your replies and thats why this forum is successful..tackling the problems with different ideas makes for easier repairs...

i did price out gaskets separately..tpi gaskets $89.00, intake manfold gasket, $35.00, exhaust, $28.00, head, $ 68.80 pair, for a total of $220.80... the kit HS-7733-PT-9, delivered $118.00 that was a savings of $102.80..so i have extra gaskets. this was the best solution utilizing the suppliers in my area. (edmonton, ab). locally suppliers wanted an extra 80 bucks for the kit.

best wishes and a Happy New Year to ya
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 07:00 PM
  #23  
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Are those prices US dollars or Canadian? The TPI gaskets seem awfully high if they're in US dollars.

The last set I bought from NAPA, which contained both the upper and lower runner gaskets (both sides) was in the $30 range. They were Fel-Pro

Intake gaskets run around $12.00 for Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals which has the siliconed rings around the ports. I always use sensor-safe silicone on the end China walls rather than the end gaskets that come in the package. Kit also has a distributor to intake gasket. I get these from O'Reilly's or AutoZone.

Exhaust manifold gaskets run around $20 or so.

O'Reilly's usually just gives me the water pump and thermostat gaskets for free, but buying them costs less than $10 for both.

Might be a good idea to have a Forum member, like me, buy and ship you the parts you need. At least someone could price the US cost for the identical item; that way you'd know if the savings (if there is any) would be worth the effort.

When I order from either the PAW or Summit catalog, the shipping is free. They charge a handling fee of around seven dollars or so. Also, there's no sales tax on orders out of state, so that's another savings of around 8% or more since I'm in Texas and they're not.

Just something to keep in mind.

Jake
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Are those prices US dollars or Canadian? The TPI gaskets seem awfully high if they're in US dollars.
The last set I bought from NAPA, which contained both the upper and lower runner gaskets (both sides) was in the $30 range. They were Fel-Pro

Intake gaskets run around $12.00 for Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals which has the siliconed rings around the ports. I always use sensor-safe silicone on the end China walls rather than the end gaskets that come in the package. Kit also has a distributor to intake gasket. I get these from O'Reilly's or AutoZone.

Exhaust manifold gaskets run around $20 or so.

O'Reilly's usually just gives me the water pump and thermostat gaskets for free, but buying them costs less than $10 for both.

Might be a good idea to have a Forum member, like me, buy and ship you the parts you need. At least someone could price the US cost for the identical item; that way you'd know if the savings (if there is any) would be worth the effort.

When I order from either the PAW or Summit catalog, the shipping is free. They charge a handling fee of around seven dollars or so. Also, there's no sales tax on orders out of state, so that's another savings of around 8% or more since I'm in Texas and they're not.

Just something to keep in mind.

Jake
all prices were in Canadian dollars....these prefromance shops around here want their buck too..and all at once...

yes it would be good to have forum member send parts up...saving in many ways!

Last edited by korvette4u; Jan 1, 2005 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 08:25 PM
  #25  
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Default Before you pull the intake

Mine did the same thing. Turned out to have cracks in the radiator tanks. They were hot enough that the leak evaporated before it hit the ground. Check them for leaks first.

Frank
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 11:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Pony_Express_Driver
Mine did the same thing. Turned out to have cracks in the radiator tanks. They were hot enough that the leak evaporated before it hit the ground. Check them for leaks first.

Frank

thats GOOD ADVISE! there are many forum members following this thread and looking for this type of infromation....fortunately i had replaced the rad along with new hoses throughout,, just this past spring.

BTW the tear down begins MONDAY.(Got the gasket kit on friday)too much yesterday lol. i will be taking lots of pics and hosting them on my home page under minichopper/PROJECTS
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 05:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by korvette4u
all prices were in Canadian dollars....these prefromance shops around here want their buck too..and all at once...

yes it would be good to have forum member send parts up...saving in many ways!
What we can do in the future is if you find you're in the need of part(s) you can email me the part number, brand, etc., and I can do a comparison pricing for what it would cost me here.

Then, if you have the time and if there is any savings (and if the savings is worth it) I could buy the part(s) for you and ship them to you.

Just something to keep in mind.

You're goning to find that the lower rearward most head bolt on the passenger side will be a bear to get to with a torque wrench. I don't know of any tool that can fit around the A/C box that'll let you put a socket and torque wrench on that bolt.

In the past I've had to torque that one bolt by feel; how tightly it feels using a ratchet/socket as compared to other bolts tightened with a torque wrench.

While not the best way to torque down head bolts, it was all I could come up with (and believe me, I tried all sorts of swivel sockets, extensions, short& deep sockets, etc), but I've never had a sealing problem doing it that way.

BTW, I have a *.doc file I created on how to reseal the intake manifold so it won't leak on you down the road. If you want to read it, let me know and I'll email it.

Good luck on the repair.

Jake

Last edited by JAKE; Jan 3, 2005 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 07:27 PM
  #28  
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Korvette,

Just wanted to let you know, things have been going pretty smoothly for me. I'm also currently replacing the head and intake gaskets- but the problem for me seems to have been the intake.

The hardest parts for me were getting the runners and plenum off (those damn bolts on the other side are a pain in the azz), as well as the exhaust manifolds.

To get the bolts off the runners, take the distributor off ASAP.

I also agree with what Jake said about the passenger head bolt at the rear. You simply cannot torque it. Just pulling it and putting it back in is enough of a hassle.

So far, it has taken me just over three days to take everything apart and clean, and the rest of the fourth day to put the intake manifold, heads, and exhaust manifolds back on. I'm hoping to finish it in another day and a half.

Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions, as this is still all fresh in my mind.
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 11:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
What we can do in the future is if you find you're in the need of part(s) you can email me the part number, brand, etc., and I can do a comparison pricing for what it would cost me here.Then, if you have the time and if there is any savings (and if the savings is worth it) I could buy the part(s) for you and ship them to you.

Just something to keep in mind.

You're goning to find that the lower rearward most head bolt on the passenger side will be a bear to get to with a torque wrench. I don't know of any too that can fit around the A/C box that'll let you put a socket on that bolt.

In the past I've had to torque that one bolt by feel; how tightly it feels using a ratchet/socket as compared to other bolts tightened with a torque wrench.

While not the best way to torque down head bolts, it was all I could come up with (and believe me, I tried all sorts of swivel sockets, extensions, short& deep sockets, etc), but I've never had a sealing problem doing it that way.

BTW, I have a *.doc file I created on how to reseal the intake manifold so it won't leak on you down the road. If you want to read it, let me know and I'll email it.

Good luck on the repair.

Jake
Thank you jake!,,, parts may as well be ordered with you and then shipped.. it will cost way less...i would Make Sure that your are compensated..

if the doc file suggest dimpling the end s of intake manifold , what i have done in past was to use the metal stamp "X" on both surfaces intake and block this gives the gasket material something to hold on to.
also use sealant around the front and back coolant passages....but i still would like to read it... korvette4u@hotmail.com
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 11:19 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Fartleker
Korvette,

Just wanted to let you know, things have been going pretty smoothly for me. I'm also currently replacing the head and intake gaskets- but the problem for me seems to have been the intake.
The hardest parts for me were getting the runners and plenum off (those damn bolts on the other side are a pain in the azz), as well as the exhaust manifolds.

To get the bolts off the runners, take the distributor off ASAP.

I also agree with what Jake said about the passenger head bolt at the rear. You simply cannot torque it. Just pulling it and putting it back in is enough of a hassle.


So far, it has taken me just over three days to take everything apart and clean, and the rest of the fourth day to put the intake manifold, heads, and exhaust manifolds back on. I'm hoping to finish it in another day and a half.

Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions, as this is still all fresh in my mind.
in answer to passenger head bolt..i believe i used short 6 point short socket with a univeral and a 12" extension to tighten ..i did this in spring and dont recall a big problem..however this is a good point to clear....

i finally finsihed my minichopper project, so i will be tearing down the engine tomorrow,, DID YOU have your heads checked and refreshened?
. i plan on doing this...

i too suspect the intake on 5&7.. but i see when take apart

Last edited by korvette4u; Jan 2, 2005 at 11:40 PM.
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