dallas916

Keep in mind that if you can do a simple push-start it will tell you if the problem is VAT-related (it won't start if the VAT is activated). Make sure the MAP hose is connected and try that before you tear things apart. If you have convincing evidence that turning the engine backward (if that's what happened) would cause an internal problem, then belay the attempt to start it at all.

captcorvette

Thank you for the info.. I don't have any direct information leading me to thinking that the valves might be bent. But having delt with rebuilding a few overhead cam engines I am always nervous about bending valves. Have done it more than once. Ok so now I am telling on myself. Last time was my flight engineers wife's Daewoo. Belt stretched. Don't know why. But had to replace all her valves and the only reason I would EVER work on a Daewoo was friendship. Next time Rolly can make a fising weight out of her car. Thanks again for your advice.

Aurora40

Isn't the VATS thing pretty easy to diagnose? The "Security" light stays constantly lit when the VATS is engaged. As long as the bulb is good, it's fairly straightforward, at least in my experience.

Is the goal to solve the no-start? Or the potential damage the towing company caused?

And what did you mean by your requests for information about the car? What information are you looking for on it, and who have you been asking?

captcorvette

I think at this point I need to follow the initial advice to sort out the starter issues by following all the advice given. Then if all the quick checks offered come out positivly then the next step will be to pull the plenium to check the starter. After confirming the status of the starter and repairing same then use it to spin the engine to see if all is holding compression and the oil cleaned from the backfire.

Then the next step will be to advise the results here and go from there? Sound like a good plan?

captcorvette

Looks like it is not a VATs issue. Have removed the plugs and tried to spin the engine over but no luck. Next will pull the plenium to check the starter. If starter is ok or if I can repair the starter then will put the plenium back on and try to spin the engine again. Once the engine will turn over will do a compression check. Now am suspecious of starter as we have had flooding here (yeah I know we are a desert but it happens) and one day we had about 90 mm in a single morning. For the life of me cannot remember if the car had been driven in that rain or not but since it had been raining it is possible.

Have been trying to locate the prievous owner (Swiss man) to get his history with the car and if he knows any more of its history. Tried to get a friend of mine who is with GM dealership to run my VIN# but it is too old for him to come up with anything specific. If you have any suggestions I will be like Ross Perot? All ears.

4cefed

Probably a starter soleniod or a starter relay. Troubleshoot before changing either. Easy to diagnose with a fluke. Do you have Section 8A Electrical Diagnoses of the LT5manual?

captcorvette

Yes I just received the entire manual plus the engine supplement from the friend I was talking about who works for a GM dealer. The manual arrived three days ago but am still sorting my way through it but still have to do this on my "spare" time if there is such a thing? Thanks will give them a look.

captcorvette

The plot thickens. I installed new battery & checked voltage. Correct. Installed new clutch switch (bought all I could find). Attempted to start. Same indications only now the "Security" light on dash stays on when I try to start. Goes off when key removed. Checked under pleninum with scope. Has water. Not sure how much. On Saturday will pull the pleninum. This along with a missfire in my '85 and very dim dash lights on the '86 soft top are driving me nuts.

Aurora40

The "Security" light on when you try to start is a clear sign of a VATS issue. It could be as simple as a worn key.

Earlier you said it was definitely not a VATS issue, how did you come to that conclusion?

captcorvette

Unfortunately I asked one of my staff to check the the car while I was on a flight trip. Gave him the instructions and of course it was not followed. Upon my return I double checked to verify his results. Sometimes things get misunderstood in my translation and even if it doesn't then that is the excuse. Will make a new key. Perhaps I can find a key shop here that has a reader to tell me the ohms resistance so I can determine which of the 12 (I think) different pellets the keys use. Unless you know something better?

captcorvette

Update. Located three shops who had key "reader". First one said #13, second shop said no reading, third shop also said #13. Had two new keys (both #13) cut. Tried them in the car and still the same indications. No change. No start and "Security" light still illuminated when key is in the ignition. However now the dash lights dim as under a load when start is attempted and return to full brightness when key is released from the start postion to the "on" position.

captcorvette

Status update. Plenium removed, starter removed/repaired/replaced. Initial start attempt it appeared as though the starter was jammed but in as much as I had just repaired the starter that wasn't the case. Second attempt and the starter would spin the engine--slowly at first then better. No start but no security light. Attempted start for 3rd time and it would spin but didn't sound as though it was getting either fuel or spark. Battery was by that time a bit weak so waiting for it to recharge.

Found that the starter was sitting in water. Perhaps from the near floods we had here right before this event started but could have been some smuck trying to clean the engine contrary to my instructions.

Will let the battery full charge and then try again on Saturday. Thanks again to everyone for their input & encouragement/help. Will just have to see how it proceeds on Saturday. Still concerned about the idiot recovery man pulling it backwards whilst in gear with ignition on.

Aurora40

How did you repair the starter?

captcorvette

It was a simple fix. Water had entered around the starter and shorted out the two wires. But it still won't start. Acts like no fuel or spark as it has not hit a lick. Gave up for the evening and will start back on it on Saturday.

glass slipper

Don't worry about the engine turning backwards...the most it turned over was about 5 revolutions. I spun on the track one time and ended up going backwards with the clutch still engaged...it not only killed the engine, but it turned backwards (more than 5 revolutions). It started right back up and I continued on my run.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and check for fuel pressure then check for spark using a timing light. If you have spark and fuel pressure, your next step will be the injectors.

captcorvette

Progress of sorts. Full battery and checked with meter. Attempted start. She tried to start and immediately shut off again. Security light back on now redardless of which of the keys I use. The 1 old one or the two new ones. Fuel pump not getting power now. Back to the drawing board.

captcorvette

Will try to start now but within a few seconds it shuts off. Security light flashes initially until the key is inserted then stays on steady. Smells like fuel near the fuel filler cap area. VATs issue and other?:

captcorvette

After duty today put the scanner on the car and the VATS warning came up on the codes. Ran out of time so will clear it and see if she will run in the morning. Couldn't find a way to determine what was the exact meaning of the code as it only said VAT in my scanner no further information was available.

captcorvette

Clear the code and it comes right back regardless of which new key I use and even the original key. Now I am stumped.

Hooked on Vettes

The Security Light will flash if the door is open and no key in the ignition. The fact that the Security Light stays on when you insert the key and turn the ignition to On or Run indicates the Pass Key system is not reading a valid key pellet resistance.

The starter won't engage and the ECM won't pulse the fuel injectors.

If you manually jump the starter the engine won't run for long because the fuel injectors are not being pulsed.

The ignition key cylinder has two wires going to it that can eventually break because every time the key is turned the wires twist.

At the base of the steering column is a small two pin plug. The color of the two wires vary depending on the year of the car. If you disconnect the plug and use an ohm meter at the end going back to the key cylinder and with the key inserted in the key cylinder you should measure the resistance value of the key pellet.

Here's the key code chart showing the different key pellet values.