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I just ordered a set of Nitto drag radials for my Vette -- just curious if anyone's broken drivetrain parts on DRs? Did you have a DTE strut brace in when it happened?
I just ordered a set of Nitto drag radials for my Vette -- just curious if anyone's broken drivetrain parts on DRs? Did you have a DTE strut brace in when it happened?
I know somebody that broke their output shaft using a set of Nitto DRs. He has a twin disk McGleod clutch and ATI SC. The drivetrain was otherwise stock. He did not have the DTE strut brace at the time, and was launching hard at the strip. Most likely they will be fine on the street as he most likely did a burn out, and then dropped the clutched at high rpm to launch. If you are not doing this, you probably don't have to worry about breaking anything. If you are...well you have seen the pics.
They are Z06 sizes except for the 18" wheel up front. I ended up going with the 305/35/18 Nitto 555R, which is only a tiny bit taller/wider than the 295/35/18 that comes with a Z06.
Ordered some Sumitomos for the front tires that had a similar tread pattern to the Nittos.
Once I get these puppies on I am going to make a new 30mph to 120mph video. With a nice tire and maybe some turbo braking the first 60mph or so should come up quite nicely
They are Z06 sizes except for the 18" wheel up front. I ended up going with the 305/35/18 Nitto 555R, which is only a tiny bit taller/wider than the 295/35/18 that comes with a Z06.
Ordered some Sumitomos for the front tires that had a similar tread pattern to the Nittos.
Once I get these puppies on I am going to make a new 30mph to 120mph video. With a nice tire and maybe some turbo braking the first 60mph or so should come up quite nicely
does this mean you're ready to unload your 19's/20's to me for real cheap?
i have a question about the dte strut brace--can you install all of the parts with the diff and rear cradle still in the car?
they say that they will last longer then BFG drag .but i think BFG are less trend but are a little stickier
I broke my output shaft with bfg drag radials, and my car doesn't make that much power. Tiny burn out, dumped the clutch at 3500. Car never moved. Also it was the first pass of the night. No brace, Cartek clutch.
If I were you I would change the Output shaft before it breaks, because if you launch your car hard on d/r. It's only a matter of time
If I were you I would change the Output shaft before it breaks, because if you launch your car hard on d/r. It's only a matter of time
I have an upgraded diff (running stock 3.42's plus the hardened output shaft) as well as a mildly upgraded tranny. I am not exactly sure what was done (wish I did) but Norris Motorsports sent my tranny off for a rebuild that included some hardened parts, some Viper parts, etc. I should really find out what that means someday
does this mean you're ready to unload your 19's/20's to me for real cheap?
I'm keeping the bling bling 19/20s for regular street driving. So I won't want to unload them The rear 20s last forever so I'll switch back to those wheels/tires once I'm done racing with the Nittos.
i have a question about the dte strut brace--can you install all of the parts with the diff and rear cradle still in the car?
My understanding is that you can, with the manual transmission version. You will have to drop the exhaust out and a few other minor pieces but no need to drop the subframe with the manual setup. I guess the auto setup is a different story? Best to ask DTE.
I broke my output shaft with bfg drag radials, and my car doesn't make that much power. Tiny burn out, dumped the clutch at 3500. Car never moved. Also it was the first pass of the night. No brace, Cartek clutch.
If I were you I would change the Output shaft before it breaks, because if you launch your car hard on d/r. It's only a matter of time
So ... what did repairs entail / cost? Just a new "hardened' shaft ...or did other things destruct in the aweful event and need expensive rebuilding/replacement?
Ran all day long on BFG Drag Radials this past weekend. Nothing broken (over 10 runs)!
I think it's all about how you launch the car, if you rev it up and just dump the clutch, chances are you'll break something. If you ease into the clutch, you should be fine.
I'm having 21MC install a Magnuson on my Vette in a few weeks. I talked to John Page about the pros/cons to the Nitto drag radials. He suggested a hardened ouput shaft but said you're still susceptible to breaking things if you encounter any wheel hop. He mentioned 2 recent examples of breakage due to wheel hop (due to aggressive street driving) with Nitto drag radials.
I would Strongly Recommend that you do the Hardened output shaft, and stru brace. There is no gaurantee that nothing will break, but your chances are much less. Also I understand the main point of the strut brace is to prevent major damage to the differential and trans incase of a out put shaft failure, because it will stop the Differential from twisting and tear apart you Trans and drive line.
So ... what did repairs entail / cost? Just a new "hardened' shaft ...or did other things destruct in the aweful event and need expensive rebuilding/replacement?
I bought the shaft for 299 and the gear was 500. Or something like that. Anyways about 800. I dropped the rear end myself and changed the gears and shaft with a friend. Then reinstalled. No problems. I had access to a c5 diff set up kit. So total cost was 800. and a bad back ache. That's because I re and re'd myself.
I went to the track before, made probably 20 passes on d/r no problems. Also I had no wheel hop. It broke on the line. The car moved maybe an inch.
Trust me. It's always cheaper to fix something before it breaks. I was just lucky I didn't gernade my diff.
i had more than 10 passes on my nittos and never broke anything.. as soon as i put the MT ET streets on my output shaft broke.. it all depends on how you launch the car, never drop the clutch and dont do high rpm launches..you should be fine