Is there any better coolant to run on a F/I car, besides the pink stock stuff. And also how do you drain the coolant?

 

I use the dexcool mixed 50% with water and an Evans pump. When I want to drain my coolant I just pull the lower rad.hose and rinse off the driveway.

 

gotcha, what is dexcool exactly?

 

A quote for ya

Your question sparked my interest...

Dexcool® is marketed to last for 5 years or 150,000 miles of service, compared to traditional green antifreeze/coolants which are marketed as dependable thermal control and corrosion and rust protection for twenty-four (24) months or 30,000 miles. Traditional antifreeze/coolants contain inorganic salts of borate, phosphate, silicate and other chemicals to prevent rust and corrosion, whereas, Dexcool’s® corrosion inhibitor components, are based on organic acid technology (OAT). Dexcool® is orange and traditional antifreeze is green.

 

Glad I don't live in your neighborhood...

 

there some stuff out there that i wanna run in liue of antifreeze. if i pop a gasket or get antifreeeze in the oil i wont need to worry about my bearings. need to ask julio don, he's the one told me.

 

My 2001 z has a drain plug i guess you could call it on the passenger side lower corner. Its a white cap with a big slot in it , i use a short flatblade screwdriver.

 

Coolant is over rated! In the summer time irun water, Redline Water Wetter and a pint of water pump lube. And here in Texas in the winter time, I use Nissan green coolant from the Nissan dealer. if I worry about it being really really cold!

Shahram

 

so u can run strait water, with some water wetter and what is that other stuff

 

Just a water pump lube made by Prestone. You can buy it anywhere.

Shahram

 

Gotta love living in the boonies with a gravel driveway!

 

one more question is there any cooling advantage to using something other than factory?

 

Ethelyne Glycol(sp) is actually has pretty crappy heat dissapation properties, but it does raise the boiling point. And I don't know if you guys do much work on cars/trucks that run the "Long Life" coolant but that sh$t really sucks. Even more so with more miles. Water does have a much better dissapation rate but the boiling point is lower so you need to make certain of your cooling system is in great condition. Something I'm sure C5 owners do anyway. All this of course does not mean poop if you live in a very cold climate!! Then you really need to run antifreeeeze!!

Shahrm

 

the best out there that I have seen is the evans waterless coolant




EVANS COOLING SYSTEMS, INC. Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. introduces NPG-R, its newest addition to their innovative line of waterless Engine Coolants. NPG-R is specifically formulated to handle the extreme conditions of racing and high performance automotive, marine and motorcycle applications. Engines previously unable to be effectively cooled with water or conventional water-based antifreezes now have the option of the improved heat transfer formula of NPG-R.

NPG-R exhibits superior coolant flow, as it is less viscous than the popular NPG+. Its improvement in thermal-conductivity increases the ability of NPG-R to transfer extreme heat away from the engine coolant jacket. This provides superior engine metal temperature control. High coolant temperature related detonation is also eliminated with NPG-R as it stays in a more liquid state instead of converting to vapor and creating hot spots within the engine coolant jacket. Remaining in a more liquid state allows NPG-R to remove additional heat from the cylinder heads when compared to other coolants. The heat is then transferred away from the engine providing continuous control of cylinder head metal temperatures.

The reduced viscosity of NPG-R makes it more compatible with small tube copper-brass radiators while providing the superior cooling of Evans Waterless Coolants. (NPG+ and NPG are only recommended for large tube aluminum radiators.) All metals, including Magnesium, are safe to use with NPG-R. Although NPG-R is safe for all metals and contains no water, an annual coolant change is suggested for racing vehicles. For maximum corrosion protection, high performance street driven vehicles running NPG-R should change coolant every other year.

NPG-R does not freeze or boil-over. In cold temperatures (down to -1OF°) NPG-R will not freeze and expand like conventional water-based antifreezes potentially cracking the engine block. In contrast NPG-R contracts into thick slurry - never becoming a solid. With a boiling point of 400°F at 7psi, NPG-R will never boil-over because it immediately condenses back to a liquid within the cylinder head coolant jacket, maintaining a liquid contact on all metal surfaces at all times.

As with NPG+ and NPG, NPG-R is a stand-alone coolant. Therefore, NPG-R requires all the existing antifreeze and water to be removed from the radiator, engine block and heater core. (Evans Prep Fluid is available for smaller capacity systems where the engine block cannot be fully drained) Once system is empty fill 100% with NPG-R. A free Test Strip is included with all purchases as a guide to a successful conversion. Technical assistance is available to assist in determining which Evans Waterless Coolant is right for your application.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Evans and Darton Sleeves

Darton Sleeves Requires NPG+ or NPGR for use with its sleeve conversions



The Darton kit effectively converts the block to a wet sleeve configuration as used on diesel engines. One cannot expect the original cooling system to effectively cool an engine producing two or more times the power of the original engine, along with a modified cylinder arrangement. We require “Evans NPG+™ coolant” be used as well as Evans LS-1 reworked water pump utilizing a relocated thermostat. High output applications may also require a larger radiator and coolant fan. Evans coolant is recommended because of the potential for hot spots and cavitation around wet style sleeves. We realize that most engines built will produce well in access of the stock rated horsepower making cooling system enhancements a must.

The above taken from Darton Sleeves Technical papers. For more information on Darton, please visit http://www.darton-international.com

 

How does propylene glycol stack up on thermal conductivity and boiling point? Anyone know?

 

im glad i made this thread very helpful, thanks guys

and the waterless coolant where do you get it?

 

How do you stop corrosion? And won't that lower your boiling point running straight water?

 

With the water pump lube from Prestone and the Watter Wetter from Redline. Yes, it does lower the boiling point but its still over the 260 degree factory gauge limit.

Shahram

 

The risk isn't that your average coolant temperature (which is what the gauge measures) will go over 260, but that it will exceed that temp in localized hot spots such as around exhaust valves, flash to steam, and then you lose your metal-to-coolant contact. Higher risk of detonation. Considering this, is water sufficient, or is something with a higher boiling point an advantage?

 

Can I send my neighbors dog to your house when he needs a drink?