How much would cost the new world product block (+ heads, pistons, crank, rods ...) with everything included for the swap for a 99 Coupe. Do any of you has an approximate number?

 

true i am trying to spin it off never really got any answers. enough of that...bottom line to holding 18 psi pretty much any of the good quality companies can provide you with the parts needed.
you dont need to spend alot.

 

Yes and no. The real issue I have found is keeping the bore round. Stock bore you have a chance. stroke it with side load you may run into trouble. (ie.383CI)

 

ok so it seems in order to keep aluminum I need to go with eithor a 347, or ls2 400 ...... any ideas on what would be a better way to go ,

 

Personally I would do the AL 346/347. That is going to be far more reliable long term and has enough displacement to run 9’s on boost in a street app and 8’s in a race car.

Mark

 

AL 347? can you post a link? thanks ,.,,, also will that work with off the shelf dart heads? how much do they run a pair?

 

That just means an aluminum stock displacement LS1 or LS6 motor. You can order a forged LS1/6 from any number of vendors including W2W, A&A, SDPC, TSP, etc. The short block usually runs $3,000 - $3,500.

Dart heads will definitely work. Just make sure you know what size combustion chambers you are going to use when you order the motor. That is necessary for determine what pistons to select to achieve an optimal compression ratio.

The Dart heads run $1,300 - $1,700 depending on size, porting, valve train, etc. You might want to shoot “BLOWNZO6” a PM as I know he recently purchased some Dart 225’s.

Cheers,

Mark

 

I am going to try 17-18 or so PSI, and this is what I did for an engine (currently at the machine shop):

LS2 Block
Camshaft –235 240 0.595˝ 0.583˝ LSA 115
Lunati 4 inch Stroker Crank
Lunati Pro-Billet Rods
Wiseco Dished Coated Pistons
Clevite Bearings
Childs & Albert Custom Stainless Rings
ARP Main Studs
LS2 Main Caps
DM Performance Engine Main Girdle
Comp Cams OEM Lifters
Custom Chromoly Pushrods
C5R Head Studs with TimeSert Conversion (for block)
Cometic Fusion Head Gaskets (these are the new ones for boost)
Melling Ported / Polished Race Oil Pump
LS2 Conversion Kit (Timing Chain/Timing Gears/Covers/Hardware)
Cam sensor harness adapter
Knock sensor harness adapter
LS2 TB and LS2 harness adapter
ECS 8-rib 8 inch harmonic Dampener

Heads

AFR 225 with 72cc chambers
Jesel 1.7 Shaft Mounted Roller Rockers
Comp 921 Valve Springs
Titanium Retainers
Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves

Sean

 

THAT looks like one HECK of a F/I engine SEAN and wish you the best of luck and that motor shoudl hand out GOBS of Power!! By the way, what will be you power adder of choice, a twin turbo system, an ATI F1 Supercharger, a Paxton NOVI 2000 or........?

 

IMO, running high boost like that, I would think the smaller bore LS1/LS6 might be more stronger and stable for the Alum Block than a LS2. That is assuming that the cylinders walls are thicker.

 

I bought my World castings block (Warhawk) for $3,700 (FWIW)... 25 units are IN production right now. If you call you can get your name on one of the last few that isn't spoken for.

Why is Aluminum so important to you? World's Warhawk only weighs about 20 Lbs more than a stock LS1 block............?

The Warhawk block should hold 30-35 PSI no problem (I'm looking to make around 2,100-2,200 RWHP with it - on race gas, of course..) and shooting for 1,200 RWHP on pump gas (4.25" bore X 4.25" stroke...)

I don't believe I'd try to run more than 16 Lbs of boost for any length of time on anything other than a C5R or World castings Warhawk block.

Hope my response provided some level of insight. Though, the majority of those before me basically said the same thing.

 

You guys know I have been running 17-17.5lbs. for two years now (although the new set up is 16-16.5 with the bigger headers and intake). That is over 200 runs down the 1320! You guys also know that the "aftermarket breakage threshold" is about 900 HP motor - 750-800 RWHP, your drivetrain needs radical attention in that range (1.50 60' and under). A really good motor like the FLP 427 C5-R Dan Bills slipped into my 00 Coupe will hold up with a "mild" tune (with 93 Oct.) for "ever" IF MAINTAINED PROPERLY. DB thinks my setup might hold UP TO 20 lbs. with the smaller studs and 20+ (an F-1R goes up to 35) with the LARGER studs now available, but whats the point if your not ready to give up the "street" and get a TH400 and a 9" straight axle don't plan on doing much racing over the 750-800 RWHP range. For about 2,000 miles a year on the street and racing every other weekend at the drag strip you can't do much better that the FLP 427 setup. Z06GMAN - if you ever want to "dial it up" you can allways use my 16 X 12.5 X 28 ET Streets and I bet they will hold up just fine on the Dyno!

JR

Oh I almost forgot - 72lb injectors with a REAL fuel system like the ones from FLP - you can't risk LEAN.

 

Thanks JR. My problem is those damn rear brakes I have. I would have to get "small again" And you are right got to have a REAL fuel system....what a LOUD MF

 

Thanks. I hope everything goes well. I bought the ECS ATI F1R 8-rib kit last year before they switched to the Paxton. I have seriously thought about switching to the STS kit with GT3582R turbos, but I do already have the ECS kit. I also am going with a lot of other supporting accessories (most of which are sitting in the front bedroom of my house waiting on the motor):

RPS Clutch and RPS Cyn-R-G Flywheel
Ron Davis Radiator with integrated oil cooler
Updated / Reinforced Alternator Bracket
Reichard Racing Blower Pulley (I bought 3.85, 4, 4.1, 4.2 inch diameters so I can test them / switch if needed)
Twin SPAL high speed fans custom fitted on '97 shroud
Kooks 1 7/8 Headers with 3 x 3 x-pipe and hi flow cats
Bosch Motorsports B 261 205 413 / 8 bar In Tank Pump, Return System, Aeromotive Rail Regulator, Mototrons (I will see if my exising 60#ers will work, if not RC Eng 75#), & KB BAP
ECS Dual Nozzle Methanol Injection Kit
DynoJet Wideband Commander O2
LAPD 3/8 inch Transmission Tunnel Plate
A&A Frame Savers & Rocker Rails
Built Rear End (back to 3.42 with hardened shafts from 4.10)
Built MN6 Transmission (I have the DTE Brace already installed)
Brembo Gran Turismo Brake Kit (4-wheels)
HRE 547R Wheels 18 x 9.5 front 18 x 12 Rear (have LPE mini-tub already)
Tigershark Front End

I plan to work the suspension as well, but I have not decided what to go with. I am leaning toward Hotchkis bars / Heim end links and LG coil overs.

Sean

 

I think most people blow things out of proportion when it comes to prepping for higher boost levels. I ran 15-16psi on PUMP gas for over a year on diamond forged pistons(9.4:1), lunati pro mod rods, and graphite head gaskets. and made over 100 dragstrip passes. but, I had the single most important element....A GREAT TUNE BY KP!!! you just cannot stress enough how important a great tune is. I could wipe out one of those warhawk engines on 10psi with a lousy tune. I plan to run 20psi on the same engine(with mls gaskets this time) on c16 leaded racegas very shortly. I may blow it to pieces the first time I turn it up, but I think it will live. many f-body guys run 20psi or more on the above components. just invest in good(not exotic) components and keep the tune a little on the conservative side. detonation is your worst enemy.