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You won't really be starting from scratch.... but it also depends on what the sd side of your tune is like at the moment.
Question: what happens if you unplug the maf????
If the car goes into reduced power mode, then no go, but if it doesn't, and all you get is codes but not reduced bs, then that would ive you a good idea of how well or badly the sd side o your current tune is...
Someone must be able to answer this question....also , I 'm sur ethat it has happened to more than a few over the years.
Just a thought
RJW - Unplugged the MAF, only got one code, MAF Low freq.
Maybe this will move me closer to buying HPT or EFILive
A Big THANK YOU to Rob, Richard, and Mike Tuning is Definetely in my future, I will research as suggested then take a long thorough acclimation period of just using it to datalog before I even try to change my fan on-off temps I feel my car has at least a little more left in it safely as now I am only pushing 9.4 psi with 14* at 11.4:1 with Meth & 40oz Torco per tank of Shell 93. You guys will know what I'm planning before I do it
You should bump the timing up another few degrees and see what that does for you. I'm running 18 degrees on top
You should bump the timing up another few degrees and see what that does for you. I'm running 18 degrees on top
Good point, but every car is different. Mine is like yours in that it likes timing! I've got 17° 's in mine with Zero KR and also with the meth off! On the dyno, mine only made maybe 2 rwhp difference when changing it from 17° to 19°, so for that much, I kept it at 17°. That's when I had the GM OS in it. Now that I have the COS, I'm going to take the restrictor plate out and tune for 10 psi. I'll have to redo the fuel table because I have more control over it.
It usually seems like the more efficient the motor is, the less timing it takes to make power (once again, I could be wrong, but that's what I noticed). Take Scotty's motor for example, in that he makes almost 700 rwhp but only has 14° of timing using 9.4 psi. My guess is that this is because his motor is efficiently using the air coming in/out of it. My guess is if you put our timing into Scotty's motor, you'd get some knock. Just thinking out loud!
You should bump the timing up another few degrees and see what that does for you. I'm running 18 degrees on top
Originally Posted by LuvmyC5
Good point, but every car is different. Mine is like yours in that it likes timing! I've got 17° 's in mine with Zero KR and also with the meth off! On the dyno, mine only made maybe 2 rwhp difference when changing it from 17° to 19°, so for that much, I kept it at 17°. That's when I had the GM OS in it. Now that I have the COS, I'm going to take the restrictor plate out and tune for 10 psi. I'll have to redo the timing table because I have more control over it.
It usually seems like the more efficient the motor is, the less timing it takes to make power (once again, I could be wrong, but that's what I noticed). Take Scotty's motor for example, in that he makes almost 700 rwhp but only has 14° of timing using 9.4 psi. My guess is that this is because his motor is efficiently using the air coming in/out of it. My guess is if you put our timing into Scotty's motor, you'd get some knock. Just thinking out loud!
Good info from BOTH of you gentlemen I have a couple of small changes in mind to improve volumetric efficiency before I mess with the tune
Matt - Sounds like U're pretty knowledgable about the MAP system so is there a certain brand that's better for our cars? Kinda looking for recommendations here!
G
Sorry it so long to reply, all you will need is the 2 BAR MAP sensor from GM for our Vette! and the proper tune!
Stay with MAF if your bigger than 400 cubes. The SD 2 and 3 bar OS have issues. I had to go back to MAF because of the bugs. There is no power difference between MAF or SD-the 85mm MAF is not as big of a restriction as everyone makes it out to be. The benefit of SD is that your car see's boost and it can fuel it based on boost-not just from as PE table that thinks your WOT.
From: Tinker till it blows... then back it off a notch, maybe!!
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by eb02z06
Stay with MAF if your bigger than 400 cubes. The SD 2 and 3 bar OS have issues. I had to go back to MAF because of the bugs. There is no power difference between MAF or SD-the 85mm MAF is not as big of a restriction as everyone makes it out to be. The benefit of SD is that your car see's boost and it can fuel it based on boost-not just from as PE table that thinks your WOT.
So what are the bugs? and are they in hpt?
I've been running a 2 bar sd for a while and haven't run into problems yet?
But I am thinking that I may need to go 3 bar soon...
I saw that some are having problems on the hpt forum....are all pcm's affectd...anyone have problems with the 2003 Z06 pcm???
I've been running a 2 bar sd for a while and haven't run into problems yet?
But I am thinking that I may need to go 3 bar soon...
I saw that some are having problems on the hpt forum....are all pcm's affectd...anyone have problems with the 2003 Z06 pcm???
Please share this info
Thanks
RJW-it seems to be only on cars over 400 cubes. They keep hitting the 1514 code-only way around it so far is by reducing the VE/IFR tables to make the computer see less airflow. I've had to reduce mine by 50%-then what this does is really throw off your PE and BE table.
From: Tinker till it blows... then back it off a notch, maybe!!
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by eb02z06
RJW-it seems to be only on cars over 400 cubes. They keep hitting the 1514 code-only way around it so far is by reducing the VE/IFR tables to make the computer see less airflow. I've had to reduce mine by 50%-then what this does is really throw off your PE and BE table.
Has anyone determined if it is totally related to 400+ engines or to the airflow from bigger engines?
haven't others got around this, including Nick Y recently? or are you guys still having problems?
I am curious, because I am stepping up to a 382 and planning on 15 to 18 psi...maybe
Has anyone determined if it is totally related to 400+ engines or to the airflow from bigger engines?
haven't others got around this, including Nick Y recently? or are you guys still having problems?
I am curious, because I am stepping up to a 382 and planning on 15 to 18 psi...maybe
Thanks
RJW-Nick is having some issues with the throttle closing between shifts. He also had to reduce his VE/IFR table. I didn't hear of anyone having issues with the 347's-I'm wondering if it all has something to do with the formula that calculates our VE based on engine size?
I did get new file to try from Bill@HPT but the problem is I don't have to the time to mess around with it. Driving 9 hours to a rental only to find faults in the tune and break your power steering bracket is a PIA. I'll stick to what works for now even it does invlove BS #'s.
From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
Hi Guys,
This is a very good thread and since it sounds like there are a few of you that want to get into this but are lacking some equipment. Most of the guys posting have purchased equipment from me so once again I want to help everyone out in some way... With that being said....
From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
Any interest in a GP for:
AutoTap FlashScanV2 EFILive
The AutoTap FlashScan V2 EFILive is the future of custom ECM tuning. Unlike typical downloaders and power modules that leave you with a cookie-cutter program, the FlashScan V2 allows you to scan, log, and tune your LS1, LS2, and LS6 to your exact specifications- all through your OBDII port. Best of all, the unit's handy built-in LCD screen, keypad, and SD memory card compatibility can dial-in maximum acceleration, fuel economy, and drivability tailored to your vehicle without a laptop. These kits include two VIN licenses to tune two vehicles (extra licenses can be purchased separately). Additional features include:
* Over 600 engine calibrations
* ECM recovery
* Software fixes for Gen IV issues
* Integrated scan tool for diagnostics
* Downloadable firmware updates
* USB 2.0 compatibility
* Four 5v analog inputs
* External serial input for data logging
* 512k onboard RAM
* 40MHz CPU
----
I currently will not be able to offer advice/instructions on tuning/support other than if there is a problem with the system itself.
Stay with MAF if your bigger than 400 cubes. The SD 2 and 3 bar OS have issues. I had to go back to MAF because of the bugs. There is no power difference between MAF or SD-the 85mm MAF is not as big of a restriction as everyone makes it out to be. The benefit of SD is that your car see's boost and it can fuel it based on boost-not just from as PE table that thinks your WOT.