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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 12:50 PM
  #1  
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'08
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Well guys, Im building a 408 to replace my 383.

I will be at 9.5:1 in compression to run my D1SC with it.

-GM 6.0L Iron block bored (.30 over)
-SCAT 4340 4.0" stroke
-SCAT 6.125" H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 7/16" bolts
-Wiseco forged 4.030" -15cc dish pistons
-Childs & Albert Fire Power rings (for high heat applications)
-ARP Main Studs
-Clevite MS 2199 H main bearings
-Clevite CB 745 H rod bearings
-Dura Bond CH-23 cam beraings
-Ported Patriot LQ9 Heads Stage 3 (72cc)
-ARP Head Studs

Cam has been order.....23X's/24X's


UPDATE! Motor has been put together and may be shipped today or Monday! !

Last edited by MIKE-C5; Apr 25, 2008 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
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Congrats Mike

Who is building your motor?
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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That will be one nice setup, time for a F1A/R to push the boost
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by peter pan
That will be one nice setup, time for a F1A/R to push the boost
You think! ! !

Im running out of money though! !
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE-C5
You think! ! !

Im running out of money though! !
Just work harder
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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Why Iron?
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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That looks like an LME motor to me.... Make sure that if you use head studs you can pull the heads without pulling the motor. Might want to reconsider to using ARP head bolts. Just my 2.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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Nice setup, but I have to agree with Vince. Why iron? Get an LS2 block and do a 402.
It's a lot lighter and cooling will be better. It's really not that much more money.



Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
That looks like an LME motor to me.... Make sure that if you use head studs you can pull the heads without pulling the motor. Might want to reconsider to using ARP head bolts. Just my 2.
You can pull the heads without any problems
We do them all the time.
The studs have a hex broached in the end. You just loosen the nuts and take the studs out just like a bolt.
Actually, the head will slip over the studs without removing them anyway.
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Last edited by Andy@A&ACorvette; Apr 17, 2008 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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what are you doing with your 383? or what happened to it.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:35 AM
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:43 AM
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Hmmmm, I dont think late Model engines would use Scat parts. Sounds like more of a Texas Speed, or SDPC motor to me.

LME only uses quality parts..I think you'd have to beg them to run those internals.
Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
That looks like an LME motor to me.... Make sure that if you use head studs you can pull the heads without pulling the motor. Might want to reconsider to using ARP head bolts. Just my 2.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by C16-Bandit
Hmmmm, I dont think late Model engines would use Scat parts. Sounds like more of a Texas Speed, or SDPC motor to me.

LME only uses quality parts..I think you'd have to beg them to run those internals.
Good point. My LME shortblock has Callies crank and rods. Thought it might be an option to go with Scat.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
That looks like an LME motor to me.... Make sure that if you use head studs you can pull the heads without pulling the motor. Might want to reconsider to using ARP head bolts. Just my 2.
Its not an LME Motor, I bought the entire package with SCAT internals....not my first choice but great deal on entire package!

Originally Posted by C16-Bandit
Hmmmm, I dont think late Model engines would use Scat parts. Sounds like more of a Texas Speed, or SDPC motor to me.

LME only uses quality parts..I think you'd have to beg them to run those internals.
I didnt beg them to use the SCAT internals because its not an LME Motor! !

Originally Posted by VetteFish
what are you doing with your 383? or what happened to it.
PM Sent
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Andy@AandACorvette
Nice setup, but I have to agree with Vince. Why iron? Get an LS2 block and do a 402.
It's a lot lighter and cooling will be better. It's really not that much more money.





You can pull the heads without any problems
We do them all the time.
The studs have a hex broached in the end. You just loosen the nuts and take the studs out just like a bolt.
Actually, the head will slip over the studs without removing them anyway
.
good info to know. I was wondering how I was going to get my heads off with the studs in the way. Removing the studs from the back of the motor was what I was thinking to get around the problem, glad thats the way you guys do it too.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
good info to know. I was wondering how I was going to get my heads off with the studs in the way. Removing the studs from the back of the motor was what I was thinking to get around the problem, glad thats the way you guys do it too.
never was a problem the heads will go on/off over the ARP head studs!!!
it is a close fit but doable.

More Than Zero
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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Mike looks like a great motor cant wait to see it in action.

More Than Zero
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE-C5
Well guys, Im building a 408 to replace my 383.

I will be at 9.5:1 in compression to run my D1SC with it.

-GM 6.0L Iron block bored (.30 over)
-SCAT 4340 4.0" stroke
-SCAT 6.125" H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 7/16" bolts
-Wiseco forged 4.030" -15cc dish pistons
-Childs & Albert Fire Power rings (for high heat applications)
-ARP Main Studs
-Clevite MS 2199 H main bearings
-Clevite CB 745 H rod bearings
-Dura Bond CH-23 cam beraings
-Ported Patriot LQ9 Heads Stage 3 (72cc)
-ARP Head Studs

I'm shopping around for the cam, so if you have any opinions/recomendations, I would like to hear them! !


Also, anyone here running a 408 with a blower? ?
That sounds wicked!

What are your projected RW numbers?

Thanks,Matt
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by madmatt9471
That sounds wicked!

What are your projected RW numbers?

Thanks,Matt

Well since Im running an auto..........750+ RWHP
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:03 PM
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Hi Mike,
I am running a HKE 408 with my little A&A P1SC blower (D1SC or F1A in the future)
I followed Erik's advice and went with a 238/242 on 115+3 LSA. I love the way the car sounds. I am running a 2800 TC and the car idles great at 900 RPM. I just love the way my car runs and sounds (well, when it used to run as I blew my tranny and the car is on the lift )
I also asked Dr Phil what he thinks about the cam and he told me it's a good choice.

Here are the motor specs:
HKE 408 at 9.1 compression
ETP LS1 230cc runners heads
238/242 on 115+3 LSA camshaft
Eagle crank, Callies Rods, Wiseco pistons
A&A P1SC with a 3.55 pulley (over 10# of boost)

With the D1SC, the numbers will be sick!!! Keep us posted

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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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I think you'll finally get your 9 sec pass
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