you could get a nice sized cone filter in there. If your willing to trim the side panel a tad you could get a larger filter in. If you run your pipe up the same place my down pipes are, you should have plenty of clearance.

 

sean, idk if you know this or looked, and i didn't read the whole post

but when your at work look at the KN catalog in the back, they have several universal filters, listed by style, then by measurements, and such

not sure if you were talking about this, or having a custom one made

 

Both actually man. The K&N catalog is a little PN intensive but I did find what I needed in there. What they DON'T have though is a dual inlet filter (outer and then reverse inner cone) which is what I'd optimally like to run.

 

Good thread, subscribing.
Sam

 

I took the bypass tubes out. Holy sheet batman can you say woooooooshhhhhh!!!!

 

You vented the Bosch BOV's to air?? Surprising. I wouldn't think that those would be very noisy even vented to air.

Good news (if you can say that) is that even though there's the turbo oiling issue, I'm getting the car back late this coming weekend to finish up. I'm going to have a couple of evenings next week to dedicate to working on it and I'm hoping to have the fenders off and doing some exploring by weeks end.

 

its def 50% louder than routed back into the intake.

 

I'll be replacing mine with Turbosmart Kompact Supersonics down the road once I get everything sorted out. Figure if it's going to be loud it's going to be LOUD.

 

Ok, here's an update to this thread. I spent about 4 hours yesterday dorking around with varying place to put the stock APS filter. The ONLY spot I can find where I can relocate it without doing a complete reconfiguration of the turbo's is on the outside of the frame rail under the pressure tube just over the A-Arm. Definitely not optimal in the sense of daily driver usage (water injestion) but will be a nearly direct route into the turbo's with still equal length induction.

I found holes in one of the larger steel reinforced feed tubes (pancake tube to filter) and BOTH of the smaller ones (turbo to pancake tube). Not to mention one of the smaller ones tore as it came out of the car.

I have abandoned the idea of putting the filters inside the fender due to lack of room on the passenger side where the PCM is, and lack of access due to turbo discharge tubing.

After having all the pieces of the induction in my hands, I think one of the biggest flaws in the induction setup is the amount of transitions in the cross sectional areas of the tubing. You go from round, to pinched oval, back to round, back to pancake, to a bending round transition, ect. If you could keep everything completely round all the way up it would probably perform MUCH better.

The ONLY other option I can readily think of for the inlets at this point is to possibly try to fabricate something that puts the filters in front of the motor in the gap between engine and fans. It looks like there is a decent amount of room on the passenger side, but the drivers side is a lot more sparse on open real estate.

More to come. I have to work tonight but will be back on it tomorrow. I'm planning on cutting my one good large reinforced tube in half and using it to extend from each turbo up to the filter on either side just above the lower A-Arm. Once I verify that will fit and install I'll probably have another look for something better. I'm running into a time crunch here as I have an appointment to drop the car off on Saturday for a tune.

 

Why don't you C5 guys reverse the inlet and outlet tube function on your APS system as APS has done with the C6 Z06 system.

If you look at the pictures of the two systems, APS comes over the crossmember with the intake and uses the pancake pipes for moving air from the turbo to the intercoolers on the C6 Z06 system. The C5 system's plumbing is just the reverse of this.

 

Ok, I know most of you guys are going to go WTF when you see this, but I've done a bunch of suspension loading and playing around and this is honestly the best I've got (for now) given my short time frame before going to be tuned.

I took the larger (diameter) of the two induction tubes and cut the one good one (I.E. no holes) in half to utilize one per side.

There's JUST enough room to fit the air filter underneath the pressure tube in the wheel well just above the lower a-arm and spring. Yes, it touches, but it's minimal. Even with the suspension loaded it's minimal. I drilled a hole in the turbo end of each tube and installed a 3/8" vacuum fitting to hook up the valve cover breathers to. Here's pics of how everything came out:

First, on the passenger side, I modified the A/C hose slightly. The first two pictures are stock, the second two pics are slightly bent to allow the induction tube to pass under it unmolested:








Now on to the induction tubes. This is a pic of the passenger side tube and a close up on the fitting:





Passenger side as installed in the car:







Drivers side as installed (pressure tube left out for photo's):





Do I think this is optimal??? Not a chance. COMPLETELY removes the ability to drive the car in the rain as far as I'm concerned. Is it better than the stock induction setup with the APS kit?? I'm absolutely positive and hopefully some dyno numbers and track times will back up this claim.

I will say that the drivers side had enough room to put the filter DIRECTLY on the turbo, barely. The passenger side was about a half inch short though I could have worked around that, but the A/C was the killer there. With the filter in place there's no access to the back of the compressor to back up the line, so that idea was squashed flat unfortunately. I'd have preferred running the filters directly on the turbo, but the only way that will happen is with a much smaller filter and I know that won't be good for flow.

My honest opinion is that this is as good as it's going to get unless you spend some SERIOUS coin completely reinventing the wheel, or rather re-engineering the entire induction/discharge system.

Thoughts?

 

Looks like you have been busy!

Thats probably not all THAT much better than running screens, sinec they are both dangerous in the rain.

Im wondering how hard it would be to run the kit in stock form daily, and then when a race or track day comes along, slap some screens on it and maybe turn up the boost some? Optimally, this is what I would like to do....can this be done with the stock PCM without hooking HPTuners up to it between the inlet swap to screens?

I guess Ill ask my tuner when I talk to him again

 

Very busy.

You can't hot swap tunes with the stock PCM. What I'd recommend doing is having the car tuned with screens only, then put the inlet on and see how much it changes things. It'll only make the overall tune richer due to less air coming into the motor, so you should be safe to drive it on.

I'm not too worried about the no rain impact as I only ever drive in it if I'm already out and get caught. Don't like chancing things with the 305 drag radials on the back. I will say that it's better than screens for the fact that there's still a full filter being run.

 

keep up the good work .people like you that try stuff is what makes the forum a helpful place. you will never know if you dont try,atleast your moving in the right direction.