APS Guys





Given I don't typically drive my car in the rain/snow/ect, think there would be any problem running a filter directly on the turbo save for I'd lose the recirculation capability of the BOV's.
Apparently K&N does a custom filter program too, so I might look at having one/some custom made if this works out.







I'm going to try to get the biggest filter I can put on there, and will be seeing the car this weekend so I'll be tinkering then hopefully. Catch for most C5 guys is going to be how much room there is with and without the batwing oil pan. More to come.


I'm going to try to get the biggest filter I can put on there, and will be seeing the car this weekend so I'll be tinkering then hopefully. Catch for most C5 guys is going to be how much room there is with and without the batwing oil pan. More to come.


The filters you mentioned, based on the size, will not flow nearly enough, and will choke the engine.
It will only flow about 450cfm each, which would support an N/A 346, but not with boost added.
A typical 346ci N/A engine requires about 650cfm at 6500rpm, so add 14psi and you need to double the cfm requirements of the filter.
Just some more info to add to the pile!
Last edited by vrybad; Mar 4, 2009 at 12:19 PM.
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The filters you mentioned, based on the size, will not flow nearly enough, and will choke the engine.
It will only flow about 450cfm each, which would support an N/A 346, but not with boost added.
A typical 346ci N/A engine requires about 650cfm at 6500rpm, so add 14psi and you need to double the cfm requirements of the filter.
Just some more info to add to the pile!
The filter I am now SPECIFICALLY looking at trying to make work is the Spectre hpR #889609. It's got a 2.5" ID throat, 5.6 to 3.25" taper and from top to base is 8" long, and has a CFM rating of 705 according to the manufacturer. The length is going to be the killer I think as I don't think an 8" filter will fit on there.
Here's a pic of the filter itself:

Link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SPE-889609
It's essentially the same thing as a K&N, oil cleaned, warranty, ect.
Even if the filter is more restrictive than the APS dual entry whatever brand it is filter, I think that a slightly more restrictive filter will still negate any power losses seen with collapsing intake ducting on the APS inlet system in the first place.
The filter I am now SPECIFICALLY looking at trying to make work is the Spectre hpR #889609. It's got a 2.5" ID throat, 5.6 to 3.25" taper and from top to base is 8" long, and has a CFM rating of 705 according to the manufacturer. The length is going to be the killer I think as I don't think an 8" filter will fit on there.
Here's a pic of the filter itself:

Link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SPE-889609
It's essentially the same thing as a K&N, oil cleaned, warranty, ect.
Even if the filter is more restrictive than the APS dual entry whatever brand it is filter, I think that a slightly more restrictive filter will still negate any power losses seen with collapsing intake ducting on the APS inlet system in the first place.
Remember the 350ci engine needs about 630-650cfm or so.
Boost it to 14.7psi and you need 1300.
450+450=900, which would only support about 450 N/A cubes.
Realistically, my goal was to get as large a filter in there as possible without changing too much.
Just making sure there is LESS restriction overall was my main focus.
I, too, think you may have space issues with that filter, but it's worth a try.
The length is the killer.
If you can make them fit, and they flow 700cfm as stated, you will flow total about 1400cfm, which theoretically supports about 750 cubes(or750-800fwhp)
My goal was to put an even larger filter on my car, but since I stuck with the 2.75" hose, I did not have ready access to one.
One thing is for sure, the mods I did to the inlet piping seem to have done the trick.
The car is making about 1.5psi more now at the same evc setting.
I haven't tried turning it up yet, so no higher boost results yet.
One other thing.
Have you actually SEEN the steel reinforced APS hose collapse under vacuum?
I honestly have a very tough time believing that tubing will close due to the vacuum from the turbo.
I mean, it's steel reinforced!!
Tough stuff!
The only possible reason I could see that hose collapsing would be to restriction in the crush section(slightly possible) or restriction at the filter.
I don't know, just curious, as at least one other has mentioned it, but I think it may be one of those unseen urban legends.





Boost it to 14.7psi and you need 1300.
450+450=900, which would only support about 450 N/A cubes.
Realistically, my goal was to get as large a filter in there as possible without changing too much.
Just making sure there is LESS restriction overall was my main focus.
I, too, think you may have space issues with that filter, but it's worth a try.
The length is the killer.
If you can make them fit, and they flow 700cfm as stated, you will flow total about 1400cfm, which theoretically supports about 750 cubes(or750-800fwhp)
My goal was to put an even larger filter on my car, but since I stuck with the 2.75" hose, I did not have ready access to one.
One thing is for sure, the mods I did to the inlet piping seem to have done the trick.
The car is making about 1.5psi more now at the same evc setting.
I haven't tried turning it up yet, so no higher boost results yet.
One other thing.
Have you actually SEEN the steel reinforced APS hose collapse under vacuum?
I honestly have a very tough time believing that tubing will close due to the vacuum from the turbo.
I mean, it's steel reinforced!!
Tough stuff!
The only possible reason I could see that hose collapsing would be to restriction in the crush section(slightly possible) or restriction at the filter.
I don't know, just curious, as at least one other has mentioned it, but I think it may be one of those unseen urban legends.
I got some pictures and talked with the guys putting my motor in last night, and there is about 3" of room between the cradle and turbo inlet at best. No dice on the filters. Not even worth trying. We figured out that if you could put a 45* base on the filter and angle it up towards the motor it might fit, but would be in VERY close proximity to the manifold, which would benefit nowhere due to hot air induction at that point.
So now I'm back to square 1. I think what we're going to do is probably get the car broken in and tuned with the system as stock and see what happens, just to where I can drive and enjoy it for the time being, and then as time progresses this spring I'll start working on a kit to hopefully take care of these issues without being too invasive to the kit as sent. I'd like to delete the pancake pipes that go under the front crossmember and remove all plastic reinforced piping, so we'll see what happens.
I got some pictures and talked with the guys putting my motor in last night, and there is about 3" of room between the cradle and turbo inlet at best. No dice on the filters. Not even worth trying. We figured out that if you could put a 45* base on the filter and angle it up towards the motor it might fit, but would be in VERY close proximity to the manifold, which would benefit nowhere due to hot air induction at that point.
So now I'm back to square 1. I think what we're going to do is probably get the car broken in and tuned with the system as stock and see what happens, just to where I can drive and enjoy it for the time being, and then as time progresses this spring I'll start working on a kit to hopefully take care of these issues without being too invasive to the kit as sent. I'd like to delete the pancake pipes that go under the front crossmember and remove all plastic reinforced piping, so we'll see what happens.
The changes can come later.
I thought OrangeCrush had the Cartek inlets on when they made those numbers, but I could be wrong.
I faced all your issues a few weeks ago, and went with a simple 2.75" hose straight from the filter to the turbos,over the cradle and thru the a-arm and swaybar, like Atomic C6 had done(he used 3").
Based on my newest datalogs, it seems to have helped.





He's very adamant about it being a stone stock APS kit. Unless I missed a development in another thread.
Maybe a simple boost controller swap is the trick.
I'm very tempted to try the e-boost2 unit that other's have spoken highly about.
That may, with inlet changes, solve most of my concerns.





I'm going to bypass all that. MBC for me. Either a Joe P Pro Z or a Hallman, haven't decided yet.





A little off topic but the way the BOV's are routed back into the system (bypass), can i disconnect it so it blows off into the atmosphere to get some sound out of them? From what I understand, its not a problem since its before the MAF but I want to confirm it before I risk blowing something.








