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NOS Kit 5177 for LS1 (DRY) .032 jet's. Remote bottle opener and heater. All activated through cabin switches. This is mounted in my 2000 Vert so bottle placement options were limited to how you see mine.
You can easily hide the purge line like this.
Last edited by paullywalnuts; Dec 31, 2009 at 11:03 PM.
Reason: added text
The tried and true NOS 5177, ya go to love it. I have personally ran about 4 of those kits, and they can work fine, just keep on top of the solenoid maintenance as they can get bad seats real easily. With that said, IMO, they are better and more advanced ways to introduce the Dry hits now. actually the 5177 can be converted to the latest technology pretty easily.
Robert
It's been more work than its worth..I didn't get optimal results until I moved the nozzles closer to the TB and added the heater. I'm on my second purge solenoid now
Last edited by paullywalnuts; Jan 1, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
Reason: added text
It's been more work than its worth..I didn't get optimal results until I moved the nozzles closer to the TB and added the heater. I'm on my second purge solenoid now
That's been a known issue with the 5177 for years. My suggestions has always been 3 to 6 inches from the MAF wires for a good reading. Actually the best bet now is to dump the nozzles and do a dry plate conversion. then you can dial in the a/f ratio in 5hp increments leaner or richer and have full timing pull via the Interface. High tech is the way to go. My opinion is the nozzle kits wet or dry, are dated technology with better ways to now introduce the spray. heaters are also dated tech, IMO, with NANo being much better at controling the pressure.
Robert
There arent many Nitrous vendors here on this particular site. SO there is less tech info. Also... Nitrous is more less a track use power adder.
Ive had a blower car and I hated the heat soak. It pulled timing and after three or four hard pulls the car ran like ****.
With nitrous I can do back to back to back runs and have no issues what so ever. The power for nitrous is there as soon as I hit the gas pedal to the floor. So Im making 600+ ftlbs of torque at 3000 rpms without the heat soak I got from a roots or twin screw style blowers and I dont have to wait till im at 5000 rpms to be at max power like the Centrifugal guys.
I also have a street tune and a race tune so im not always rich and running around with no power because there is never any timing there. I can adjust the spray to come on when I want i to or I can go without it totally if need be. You cant do that with a blower or turbo.
The arguement that nitrous is for the poor man is absolutly wrong. My nitrous kit run me $2500 and that didnt include the BAP, injectors, and every bottle fill Ive had to make since I started spraying. So that arguement is way out of date.
Fact of the matter is that Nitrous has come a long ways in the past few years and so has the tuning for it. I will probably never go SC or Turbo again unless its only for a track car and I will still have spray on top of that also! LOL
Very nice...Well after having the 5177 I'm sure my future power mods will NOT be N2O..too much work and to maintain/fill the bottle got old real quick. I may just leave it all and wait for my Z before modding any more!!
Very nice...Well after having the 5177 I'm sure my future power mods will NOT be N2O..too much work and to maintain/fill the bottle got old real quick. I may just leave it all and wait for my Z before modding any more!!
My bottle fill answer, LOL. They do have the dual 15lb NANO kits on there now, but this picture was handy. That is one nice thing about NANO, it doubles the runs per every bottle compared to with out NANO. I can race a few weekends of racing with out touching the bottles or worring about PSI, with a reasonable sized hit, 200hp.
Robert