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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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@ Darion

Good links, that's some extreme plumbing. I'm really big on preventive maintinence, I'd hate to have to check compression or even think about a plug with that setup. That centri vs PD was some good knowledge. Seems like that roots is good for the street but hard to go beyond its initial power gain.

Flipside I'm not looking to race.....yet.

Thanks man!
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by corvette8189
seems like what u really need is a A&A kit
I second that!! STS is too much money for too little power. JMO
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bladeboy2025
Making old ladies give me the stink eye and children run in terror doesn't sound so bad.
I have fun with that too. Mostly though, you'll find that the children give you the thumbs up.


Originally Posted by bladeboy2025
I read in the forum it seems like it becomes a turbo/centri/SC pissing contest. And I know inevitably it comes down to personal preference, but still not looking to get buyers remorse in sense.
Based on real life experience, as reported here, you'll find that three systems have the best track record:
ECS centrifugal, A&A centrifugal, and TTi turbo. There are also people quite happy and doing well with PD blowers, but they seem to need to jump through more hoops to get them to the power levels of those already mentioned. For low rpm horsepower, similar to huge cubic inches, I don't think anything else comes close to the PD, except for nitrous.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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A&A YSI kit and be done with it.

If I didn't have my D1, I'd have gone that route instead. It can make way more power than my stock bottom end LS1 could dream of making, but you'll always want more, and once forged/stroker motors go in, things change.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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For A&A, how far can you go with this kit? In reference to upgrading, maintenance, power? Most people here have fairly built engines, bigger CI stroking, and so forth. If I choose to go with a drag/racing route in the future will I start from scratch or just throw on another pulley and have fun?
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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A&A Si trim runs to 650rwhp efficiently, but can make 725. The Ti trim runs efficient to 750rwhp, but can make over 800. YSi for 700+ builds. The only thing I don't like about vortech blowers is they seem to make less power than the prochargers and paxton novi's. They put out good HP #'s, but the torque just isn't there. I saw a graph of one guy that only gained 40rwtq with his blower. If I paid 6 grand for a blower and only made 40 more tq, I'd sell the car.

Another thing is if you want to chase dyno #'s or track times. I personally like track times but it comes at a price $$$. Vortech has some quick automatic cars, but I am yet to see a 6 speed vortech car that impresses me at the track.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by slowtealz28
A&A Si trim runs to 650rwhp efficiently, but can make 725. The Ti trim runs efficient to 750rwhp, but can make over 800. YSi for 700+ builds. The only thing I don't like about vortech blowers is they seem to make less power than the prochargers and paxton novi's. They put out good HP #'s, but the torque just isn't there. I saw a graph of one guy that only gained 40rwtq with his blower. If I paid 6 grand for a blower and only made 40 more tq, I'd sell the car.

Another thing is if you want to chase dyno #'s or track times. I personally like track times but it comes at a price $$$. Vortech has some quick automatic cars, but I am yet to see a 6 speed vortech car that impresses me at the track.
Link to this car that only made an extra 40ft tq on a blower setup? :

Kind of hard to take that seriously to be honest with you. Friend of mine is making over 600rwhp on a T-Trim 2v Mustang on pump gas.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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I don't have the link. If I posted in the thread I could pull it up, but I had nothing nice to say so I didn't say anything. I am sure the 2v is crankin out a good hunk of boost to make 600@W.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 11:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by slowtealz28
A&A Si trim runs to 650rwhp efficiently, but can make 725. The Ti trim runs efficient to 750rwhp, but can make over 800. YSi for 700+ builds. The only thing I don't like about vortech blowers is they seem to make less power than the prochargers and paxton novi's. They put out good HP #'s, but the torque just isn't there. I saw a graph of one guy that only gained 40rwtq with his blower. If I paid 6 grand for a blower and only made 40 more tq, I'd sell the car.

Another thing is if you want to chase dyno #'s or track times. I personally like track times but it comes at a price $$$. Vortech has some quick automatic cars, but I am yet to see a 6 speed vortech car that impresses me at the track.
Just going from my experience seems like something didn't go right with that system install or there is an issue with that motor/setup. Heck, I picked up 40 rwtq by the time I hit 2700 rpm and I'm running through a stock LS1 with stock manifolds and all. My car is no TQ beast but I am already traction limited on the street.

I would agree if I paid 6 grrr and that was the best I got I would not be happy.

Darion

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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by slowtealz28
I don't have the link. If I posted in the thread I could pull it up, but I had nothing nice to say so I didn't say anything. I am sure the 2v is crankin out a good hunk of boost to make 600@W.
Something was VERY wrong with the car if it only picked up 40rwtq on a blown setup. That's not Vortech's fault I can assure you.

And yes, my friend is running 20psi on pump gas through the T-Trim. He has a 4v head setup that is just waiting cams and headers, then he's shooting to max out the T-Trim before moving on to something else.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 07:28 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bladeboy2025
For A&A, how far can you go with this kit? In reference to upgrading, maintenance, power? Most people here have fairly built engines, bigger CI stroking, and so forth. If I choose to go with a drag/racing route in the future will I start from scratch or just throw on another pulley and have fun?
One nice thing about the ECS kit is that the basic kit already includes the larger blower, and most everything needed for several levels of future upgrade. I think numerous people are running 9s with this (perhaps you've noticed all the "ECS 9s" avatars), and it holds a number of C5 drag records.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #32  
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Alright you've convinced me, no STS! They do have a nice whoosh sound Alright ECS and A@A. Both seem to have a relative similar setup. Of ECS offers that super blower, will it be able to perform with let's say the Si from A@A.

Alright here I go thinking again...
Larger tubes take longer to spool but generate rockets like power in the top end, but suffer in the low end because of spool time etc. I'm assuming a$$-you-me, that the same would be try for a larger Centri, practically the same device.

With that being said I would most likely want to go for A@A to my specific build. 10 sec street machine. I know ill need a bit more for that with a v2si kit, but I think the recharge would suite my preference a bit better.

Then again I could be wrong....

If I get only 40 HP after this build, there a strong possibility of going postal on something. I'll choose the desert for now.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bladeboy2025

Alright here I go thinking again...
Larger tubes take longer to spool but generate rockets like power in the top end, but suffer in the low end because of spool time etc. I'm assuming a$$-you-me, that the same would be try for a larger Centri, practically the same device.
No, it's different. A centri is always spooled according to engine rpm, and there is no noticeable lag. You get full boost (whatever full boost is at that rpm) as soon as you mash the throttle. In fact, a larger than needed head unit allows the use of an inlet restricter plate, giving a broader torque curve than can be achieved with a smaller head unit.

What you do is you set up your blower to make too much boost on the top end. This will result in more boost across the board. The restriction at the blower inlet cuts down the top end, but has less effect on the increased boost at lower rpms. The result is a broader power band.

Additionally, with a small enough blowoff valve, the charge piping and intercooler are always pressurized, so no time is needed to pressurize the system. I put a pressure gauge on my system and checked this. The downside would be slightly poorer fuel economy if you spend a lot of time driving at high rpms/low throttle opening, because you're wasting energy creating intake tract boost which never makes it past the throttle blade to the intake manifold.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:32 PM
  #34  
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I think I understand a bit better now. Are restricted plates bought or built, or perhaps instead of a plate using an adjustable gate; like a throttle ctrl valve, to fine tune your lower end tq?

Should I stay with the BCV that's included in the kit, or buy one of my own. I'm guessing ECS or A@A are selling quality with their products.

I was reading and like the A&A's blowoff valve ctrl on the charger it's self. ECS didn't write up as well on theirs so I'm not sure if it has one aside from at the intercooler.

Additionally A&A offers the contained SC oil blowers. Again couldn't find that on ECS site. Could possibly have that set up. Seems a better set up from a mechanical standpoint.

Let me say you guys are awesome for helping me out in my decision.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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ECS's Novi has quite a bit more in it then the SI blowers if I recall correctly. The Novi is closer to an inbetween the T-Trim and YSI. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. Another difference, is that Novi is probably the quietest of the centrificals. So if you like a little whistle from your blower, you won't want the Novi(like me for example, I like hearing it). I believe you can get the Si and T-Trims with self-contained oil units, but the YSI still needs to be tapped to the oil pan.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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The ECS kit comes with various sized restrictor plates.

You can get self contained oiling from either ECS or A&A, if that's what you want.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Yeah I'd really like to go the self contained oiling route. I can keep on top of the changes just fine. That YSI kit looks a little to extreme for my individual application. The upgradability is a tempting feature tho.

In terms of track times, would the Si, T, or ECS benefit me more? That ECS kit doesn't look as specific as A&A, but does offer great instant power for the price. They're both so close IMO that it could take the Cust. Sppt to sway my judgement. That and I do like that whistle, let's me know its there.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bladeboy2025
Yeah I'd really like to go the self contained oiling route. I can keep on top of the changes just fine. That YSI kit looks a little to extreme for my individual application. The upgradability is a tempting feature tho.

In terms of track times, would the Si, T, or ECS benefit me more? That ECS kit doesn't look as specific as A&A, but does offer great instant power for the price. They're both so close IMO that it could take the Cust. Sppt to sway my judgement. That and I do like that whistle, let's me know its there.
Once you get bit with the boost bug, you'll find yourself wanting more. Heads and cam next, then pulley down for more boost. Next thing you know, you're planning forged internals(or a stroker motor), then a bigger blower. With a restrictor plate(which you can run with any of the centrificals), you'll get more of that instant power that you might be looking for, with the ability to resize it or remove it later when your engine is capable of handling more power.

A&A and ECS both have excellent customer service, why don't you talk to one of your local shops and see what they like using, then go from there?
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinStrife
Once you get bit with the boost bug, you'll find yourself wanting more. Heads and cam next, then pulley down for more boost. Next thing you know, you're planning forged internals(or a stroker motor), then a bigger blower. With a restrictor plate(which you can run with any of the centrificals), you'll get more of that instant power that you might be looking for, with the ability to resize it or remove it later when your engine is capable of handling more power.

A&A and ECS both have excellent customer service, why don't you talk to one of your local shops and see what they like using, then go from there?
Well, if I can find anybody that's not 400 miles away i'll give them a shot. I think the closest dyno tuner is at least and hour by highway.....unless my google has a clog in it's tube
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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Turbos are not parasitic so you'll get better mileage and they are not as hard on the drive train. You can get an electronic boost controller to bring in the boost with respect to rpm/as you gain traction (completely adjustable). At idle you will not hear a whine, so you can drive it soft and park it at the store with out drawing any attention (no whistling).

Put together a kit with used pieces. As long as you don't go over 8-10psi you will not damage your factory engine as it is. You will need push rods, valve springs, injectors and a 255 lph fuel pump.
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