Who is running 20w-50 engine oil, which brand?
11-19-2011, 11:25 AM
#21
Premium Supporting Vendor
I'd recommend this relatively new offering from AMSOIL which has anti-wear additives much higher than most off the shelf oils:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 20w50 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRFQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
I'd be happy to get this for forum members at dealer wholesale, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 20w50 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRFQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
I'd be happy to get this for forum members at dealer wholesale, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
__________________
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
AMSOIL Catalog
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
AMSOIL Catalog
11-19-2011, 11:45 AM
#22
Tech Contributor
11-19-2011, 10:46 PM
#29
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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Scott not making fun of the motor going out, Just it is not the oil in your case. Better to laugh than some in here going back to stock and not having no more go fast fun any more...
Hope you get it back up and going soon are over the winter any way.. Robert
11-19-2011, 10:57 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
right now im getting ready to put the heads back on short block is done
11-20-2011, 12:33 AM
#31
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I feel your pain again and again though, I have an oil leak at the rear of the block that is making me thing I might have to drop the driveline again. I really need to buy a lift.
11-20-2011, 12:37 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
NO VR1 BROKE my crank in 2 pieces you may not want to use VR1 in your car Bro 
Last edited by a/c man; 11-20-2011 at 12:43 AM.
11-20-2011, 12:56 AM
#33
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Funny thing about the oil is it isn't street legal per bold print on the label. That really interferes with my car being labeled a street car, not a race car
11-20-2011, 08:14 AM
#34
Former Vendor
Who is building the Ls motor so loose to warrent 20/50 ?
Highest we run is 40 weight in our built motors going by the oil pressure being 45-55 at hot idle.
Highest we run is 40 weight in our built motors going by the oil pressure being 45-55 at hot idle.
11-20-2011, 08:48 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
11-20-2011, 09:06 AM
#36
Le Mans Master
11-20-2011, 09:45 AM
#37
Melting Slicks
That is the general consensus from what I have seen. The aluminum block will "grow" when up to operating temps therefore increasing your clearances and you will have less oil pressure. I think .0020" on the mains is a good number to shoot for with a big boosted motor.
11-20-2011, 10:09 AM
#38
Safety Car
Thread Starter
11-20-2011, 10:16 AM
#39
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Didn't ask for a build sheet. Shawn has built a lot of high HP LS base engines so I left those decisions up to him.
11-20-2011, 02:49 PM
#40
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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Right now I'm running Valvoline NSL synthetic per the engine builder. I might want to add my crank shaft is still in 1 pieces with this oil though.
Funny thing about the oil is it isn't street legal per bold print on the label. That really interferes with my car being labeled a street car, not a race car
Funny thing about the oil is it isn't street legal per bold print on the label. That really interferes with my car being labeled a street car, not a race car
Now that you told ever one on here. IT IS A RACE CAR FOR SURE NOW...