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The issue I had was that I would turn the key to the on position and the pump would be spraying at fully boogy. Green light on and all. I didn't sit there and toy with it a lot, but I just turned the turn on **** down until I could turn the key on and the pump not spray.
Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
IIRC turning the turn on **** CCW would make it come on earlier. Is your PAC keying off of the newly replaced MAP or is it using the MAP that comes with the Alky Control kit?
The PAC controller is wired to the 3bar MAP (new MAP sensor)
Originally Posted by Julio
Well the turnon **** sets up a reference voltage whereby it compares the voltage on the green wire input. It controls when the controller activates. So decreasing the Turnon point decreases the boost level the system activates at. Or vice versa, increasing it(CW) increases when the kit activates.
So.. typically you shouldnt need the system to control knock when it activates. And... its setting is based on tuning preference. Typically a good place to be is .33-.4 of your target boost level. So if you run 10 PSI boost, activate at 3-4 PSI? This way you can roll it in. And you shouldnt have any KR with or without alcohol at .3-.4 of target.
If you want to get a little more technical.. if you probe the 12 o'clock position on the Turnon control... and you measure voltage.. that will be the voltage the kit turns on. So lets say its set to 2.70 volts. When the green wire hits 2.71 it activates the kit. A 2bar at 100 KPA=0 psi is approx 2.4 volts. Every PSI is approx .16v. So 2.72 is 2 psi boost. 2.88 is 3 psi, 3.04v is 4 psi, etc.
Hope this helps
That makes sense. Perhaps its false knock because I did have to relocate my knock sensors to the side of the block. I honestly have no idea but I did already pull 2* of timing in those areas that were experiencing knock and it didn't seem to help. I'm going to go measure the voltage at the 12:00 position.
If anyone wants to take a look at the logs, I'll be more than willing to email them
The issue I had was that I would turn the key to the on position and the pump would be spraying at fully boogy. Green light on and all. I didn't sit there and toy with it a lot, but I just turned the turn on **** down until I could turn the key on and the pump not spray.
If the turnon was set less than the map sensor voltage, then I can see this happening. Example you have a 2 bar and set the turnon to 2.2 volts. Since a 2 bar is 2.4 at zero vacuum.. then having a lower turnon point will activate the pump.
I understand its now a 3 bar, and 2.2 is fine for that sensor.
When ever you turn ignition on.. that "turnon" led has to be off. It cannot come on unless your in boost. I have seen some shops actually set it to come on under vacuum and the mess that causes. In those cases wish they would simply pickup a phone and call
If the turnon was set less than the map sensor voltage, then I can see this happening. Example you have a 2 bar and set the turnon to 2.2 volts. Since a 2 bar is 2.4 at zero vacuum.. then having a lower turnon point will activate the pump.
I understand its now a 3 bar, and 2.2 is fine for that sensor.
When ever you turn ignition on.. that "turnon" led has to be off. It cannot come on unless your in boost. I have seen some shops actually set it to come on under vacuum and the mess that causes. In those cases wish they would simply pickup a phone and call
Ah I see what you're saying now. Thanks Julio!!
Would you suggest turning the Turn On to a lower voltage (lower activating psi) on a car that will make north of 800rwhp pretty easy? If so, what psi do you suggest?
Would you suggest turning the Turn On to a lower voltage (lower activating psi) on a car that will make north of 800rwhp pretty easy? If so, what psi do you suggest?
You should be fine. Unless you find you need more methanol up top.
two ways you can get more methanol.. one is increasing the Gain ****.. the other is making it come on sooner as this increases the ramp.(setting it to turnon sooner).