Overheating
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa Ok
Overheating
Move this if you want but I'm at a loss here.
New radiator = overheats (235*) while cruising still, AC off
New water pump = overheats while cruising still, AC off
Added air scoop under radiator = didn't help, AC off
Using ECS top cover, fans come on at 172*
160* stat opens at 168* in boiling water on stove
Idling is no problem with overheating but once I turn the AC on while idling the temp goes to 230* before I turn the AC off. Car will overheat quicker cruising with the AC on.
I'm using water with 24oz of water wetter (when I added the new radiator I used only 12oz). Is it simply just air bubbles in the system? I did the front steam vents by loosing them up and letting water come out for about 10 seconds then tightening it back up with the cap on to have pressure for this.
New radiator = overheats (235*) while cruising still, AC off
New water pump = overheats while cruising still, AC off
Added air scoop under radiator = didn't help, AC off
Using ECS top cover, fans come on at 172*
160* stat opens at 168* in boiling water on stove
Idling is no problem with overheating but once I turn the AC on while idling the temp goes to 230* before I turn the AC off. Car will overheat quicker cruising with the AC on.
I'm using water with 24oz of water wetter (when I added the new radiator I used only 12oz). Is it simply just air bubbles in the system? I did the front steam vents by loosing them up and letting water come out for about 10 seconds then tightening it back up with the cap on to have pressure for this.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 1, 2014 at 09:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Gotta have a GOOD, stock air damn on it. One that is straight up and down. It is essential at any speed faster then 40 mph..
I replaced my bent/hacked up stocker with a replacement and dropped about 10* on the highway.. And it recovers from the stupid hot idle temps faster.
I replaced my bent/hacked up stocker with a replacement and dropped about 10* on the highway.. And it recovers from the stupid hot idle temps faster.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 82
From: Kauhava, Finland
That thread then died away, so I don't know if it it worked or not.
Some years ago some of my friends made some temp measurements with and without air dam.
I don't know if putting it back works for you, but I'd be happy to know.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa Ok
I'll have to see how it goes back on. I took it off because it kept scraping the ground. I'm sure it would help cruising but my car overheats idling with the AC on too. I have new stock fans too. I'm going to jack the front end up and get it up to temp and see if the fans come on like they should. But I'll be putting in a stock thermostat and bleeding the system first.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 2, 2014 at 03:56 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 48
From: Dayton Ohio
I'll have to see how it goes back on. I took it off because it kept scraping the ground. I'm sure it would help cruising but my car overheats idling with the AC on too. I have new stock fans too. I'm going to jack the front end up and get it up to temp and see if the fans come on like they should. But I'll be putting in a stock thermostat and bleeding the system first.
I dont have the air damn thing on mine but I do have the Twin inter coolers with my P1SC-1 (nothing infront of the radiator and radiator laid down) with a 160 T stat using a 50/50 mix and a bottle of water wetter. Stock fans with stock radiator. Coolant usually stays under 190 oil temp is usually under 200.
Josh2515 has a similar set up to me but with A&A kit (single intercooler) without the air damn on and radiator just lowered with spacers, stock t stat, stock radiator etc and usually runs about 20 degrees warmer.
Possible that something is blocking it etc? You do likely live in a warmer area but still.
Last edited by PEETYZ; Sep 2, 2014 at 04:26 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
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Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
You have air trapped in the block - it needs to be burped or do this!
I am still going to do a write-up but here is what I got and did:
Parts:
(2) http://s41657.storefront-solutions.c...l.aspx?ID=3289
(2) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360869686162&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370990740222&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=371002092316&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) Approx 5' of 1/4 fuel line
(9) Hose clamps
Remember that I had already bypassed the front cross over tube from going to the radiator and re-routed it to go into the return of the expansion tank -
Now! I am doing the same thing with the rear ports, which have plugs -
All the pictures are pretty much self explanitory but I will add some comments, here goes:
Install the 1/8NPT x 1/4" Nipple in the water fitting block:
Pull a few things out of the way, you can even pull the coil packs to make it even simpler, but just pull up the harnesses over the rail and you will be good:
Install the hose on the nipple and make sure the o-ring stays on the bottom, you can use a little silicone grease to help keep it in place, I did not have to but you can:
Use a 10mm socket with a couple of extensions and a swivel and ratchet:
Removed the rear block, also good to take some compressed air and blow all that off in the back:
Now install the new set-up, having the sose already connected allows you to handle it and hold it during installation - NOTE: the way the clamp is so as not to interfer with the allen bolt head -
Tools: Extensions, 5mm allen socket head, ratchet and swivel -
Once done and installed, run the 1/4" line behind the manifold and over towards the battery compartment!
Now here is the passenger side, repeat the same steps for this side as you did for the drivers side - I am going to put all the pics in a row as I performed the steps:
Now run this piece over towards the battery compartment as well!
Get your Y Fitting:
Add a straight piece to reach to the return line going to the Expansion tank:
Once all done, it will look like this - and again remember I had taken my front one and re-routed it to the expansion tank return line and capped off the radiator side - hence the one to the left in the picture:
A little cleaned up here, I am not fully satisfied with how this looks, but it is okay for now:
This will allow all the air in front and back of the motor to be bled out and burped fully so you DO NOT have that overheating problem - believe me this will help and it is very inexpensive too!
Thanks,Matt
661-406-7516
I am still going to do a write-up but here is what I got and did:
Parts:
(2) http://s41657.storefront-solutions.c...l.aspx?ID=3289
(2) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360869686162&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370990740222&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=371002092316&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160(1) Approx 5' of 1/4 fuel line
(9) Hose clamps
Remember that I had already bypassed the front cross over tube from going to the radiator and re-routed it to go into the return of the expansion tank -
Now! I am doing the same thing with the rear ports, which have plugs -
All the pictures are pretty much self explanitory but I will add some comments, here goes:
Install the 1/8NPT x 1/4" Nipple in the water fitting block:
Pull a few things out of the way, you can even pull the coil packs to make it even simpler, but just pull up the harnesses over the rail and you will be good:
Install the hose on the nipple and make sure the o-ring stays on the bottom, you can use a little silicone grease to help keep it in place, I did not have to but you can:
Use a 10mm socket with a couple of extensions and a swivel and ratchet:
Removed the rear block, also good to take some compressed air and blow all that off in the back:
Now install the new set-up, having the sose already connected allows you to handle it and hold it during installation - NOTE: the way the clamp is so as not to interfer with the allen bolt head -
Tools: Extensions, 5mm allen socket head, ratchet and swivel -
Once done and installed, run the 1/4" line behind the manifold and over towards the battery compartment!
Now here is the passenger side, repeat the same steps for this side as you did for the drivers side - I am going to put all the pics in a row as I performed the steps:
Now run this piece over towards the battery compartment as well!
Get your Y Fitting:
Add a straight piece to reach to the return line going to the Expansion tank:
Once all done, it will look like this - and again remember I had taken my front one and re-routed it to the expansion tank return line and capped off the radiator side - hence the one to the left in the picture:
A little cleaned up here, I am not fully satisfied with how this looks, but it is okay for now:
This will allow all the air in front and back of the motor to be bled out and burped fully so you DO NOT have that overheating problem - believe me this will help and it is very inexpensive too!
Thanks,Matt
661-406-7516
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa Ok
I did notice some big chunks of what looks like salt/mineral deposits in the overflow tank. By big I mean bigger than a $1 coin and a bunch of them from that size to smaller pieces. They are swirling around in the middle of the tank. I'll remove it and see if it's possible to get it out and if not I'll be ordering a new one. Then I'll stick a hose on the suction of the water pump and try to blow everything out with the upper hose disconnected. Then blast the radiator with the water hose. I got some degreaser so I'm going to coat the condenser and use my power washer on it to clean it all the way. Yes I know I won't get 1" away with the power washer. I'll be gentle with it.
Then when I'm done I'm going to pour some distilled water in the engine to flush out the water from the water hose and also the radiator. I figure I'll buy 15 gals of the ****. Gotta get this fixed before getting it retuned on the 9th. I wanna enjoy my car without having to bring the laptop every time I drive.
Then when I'm done I'm going to pour some distilled water in the engine to flush out the water from the water hose and also the radiator. I figure I'll buy 15 gals of the ****. Gotta get this fixed before getting it retuned on the 9th. I wanna enjoy my car without having to bring the laptop every time I drive.
Team Owner
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things like this are why I relocated my heat exchanger and opened up the plate filler
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didn't see this mentioned but have you tried blowing out your ac condenser?... when I did my blower install I put in a new dewitts radiator and my intercooler was obviously new but I cleaned the ac condenser while everything was out... I didn't have any overheating problems before but even then you wouldn't imagine how much crap I cleaned out of there... I used a radiator genie with air to get in there and clear it all out... after that was all said and done I used a 50/50 mix of dex and distilled water and I rarely see over 200° even sitting in traffic with the ac on, most of the time it's low to mid 190's while sitting and high 180s to low 190s cruising... I have the full size ecs intercooler (not sure which one you have) so that added to the condenser is a lot of stuff for air to get by to get to the radiator, so something is definitely not right in your case
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
As an example, I did what neutron just mentioned regarding the AC condenser.
I was over heating, have the twin small intercoolers as well. I could not drive the car with the AC regardless of outside temp, and on 80+ degree days it would overheat without running the ac.
I finally tore into it two weeks ago and pulled the AC condenser. I could not believe how much crap I ended up with on the floor. Afterwards on a 100 degree day it only maxed out at 217 on the freeway with the ac on. I still might have some air in it, but at least its acceptable.
I hope it's an easy fix for sure, and I do know how frustrating it can be. This is just my experience, it may or may not be related.
I was over heating, have the twin small intercoolers as well. I could not drive the car with the AC regardless of outside temp, and on 80+ degree days it would overheat without running the ac.
I finally tore into it two weeks ago and pulled the AC condenser. I could not believe how much crap I ended up with on the floor. Afterwards on a 100 degree day it only maxed out at 217 on the freeway with the ac on. I still might have some air in it, but at least its acceptable.
I hope it's an easy fix for sure, and I do know how frustrating it can be. This is just my experience, it may or may not be related.
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,124
Likes: 53
From: Earth, United States
Move this if you want but I'm at a loss here.
New radiator = overheats (235*) while cruising still, AC off
New water pump = overheats while cruising still, AC off
Added air scoop under radiator = didn't help, AC off
Using ECS top cover, fans come on at 172*
160* stat opens at 168* in boiling water on stove
Idling is no problem with overheating but once I turn the AC on while idling the temp goes to 230* before I turn the AC off. Car will overheat quicker cruising with the AC on.
I'm using water with 24oz of water wetter (when I added the new radiator I used only 12oz). Is it simply just air bubbles in the system? I did the front steam vents by loosing them up and letting water come out for about 10 seconds then tightening it back up with the cap on to have pressure for this.
New radiator = overheats (235*) while cruising still, AC off
New water pump = overheats while cruising still, AC off
Added air scoop under radiator = didn't help, AC off
Using ECS top cover, fans come on at 172*
160* stat opens at 168* in boiling water on stove
Idling is no problem with overheating but once I turn the AC on while idling the temp goes to 230* before I turn the AC off. Car will overheat quicker cruising with the AC on.
I'm using water with 24oz of water wetter (when I added the new radiator I used only 12oz). Is it simply just air bubbles in the system? I did the front steam vents by loosing them up and letting water come out for about 10 seconds then tightening it back up with the cap on to have pressure for this.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 369
From: Forney TX
Getting hot sitting still? Fans not moving enough air through radiator for any of many reasons, water pump not moving enough water. Make sure both fans are turning and pulling air the proper direction.
Getting hot while moving but works better sitting still? That's usually the air dam. You must isolate the front of the radiator from the rear so that air isn't allowed to go around. The air dam isn't a scoop. It's used to create both high pressure in front of the radiator AND low pressure behind forcing air through. Just like the drafting concept in NASCAR.
If you have mineral deposits, it sounds like tap water was used. I've seen brand new radiators destroyed when using tap water mixed with additives. It created some strange reaction and clogged it up in minutes.
Was it specifically RedLine brand water wetter that was used or some generic version of it?
Getting hot while moving but works better sitting still? That's usually the air dam. You must isolate the front of the radiator from the rear so that air isn't allowed to go around. The air dam isn't a scoop. It's used to create both high pressure in front of the radiator AND low pressure behind forcing air through. Just like the drafting concept in NASCAR.
If you have mineral deposits, it sounds like tap water was used. I've seen brand new radiators destroyed when using tap water mixed with additives. It created some strange reaction and clogged it up in minutes.
Was it specifically RedLine brand water wetter that was used or some generic version of it?
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 759
Likes: 22
From: Slatington PA
Getting hot sitting still? Fans not moving enough air through radiator for any of many reasons, water pump not moving enough water. Make sure both fans are turning and pulling air the proper direction.
Getting hot while moving but works better sitting still? That's usually the air dam. You must isolate the front of the radiator from the rear so that air isn't allowed to go around. The air dam isn't a scoop. It's used to create both high pressure in front of the radiator AND low pressure behind forcing air through. Just like the drafting concept in NASCAR.
If you have mineral deposits, it sounds like tap water was used. I've seen brand new radiators destroyed when using tap water mixed with additives. It created some strange reaction and clogged it up in minutes.
Was it specifically RedLine brand water wetter that was used or some generic version of it?
Getting hot while moving but works better sitting still? That's usually the air dam. You must isolate the front of the radiator from the rear so that air isn't allowed to go around. The air dam isn't a scoop. It's used to create both high pressure in front of the radiator AND low pressure behind forcing air through. Just like the drafting concept in NASCAR.
If you have mineral deposits, it sounds like tap water was used. I've seen brand new radiators destroyed when using tap water mixed with additives. It created some strange reaction and clogged it up in minutes.
Was it specifically RedLine brand water wetter that was used or some generic version of it?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa Ok
Redline then when I got the new pump I used (2) 12oz bottles of Royal Purple and I'm going to flush out everything then run distalled water through the system with the flush n fill from prestone. I just ordered a new surge tank since I might as well start new with the cooling system plus it has a bunch of crap in it.
As for the AC condenser, yes it is dirty but I didn't want to release the freon and compressed air did nothing to remove the stuff stuck in it. So I'm going to cover it in degresser and use a power washer on it while still connected but with the radiator out of the way. Stupid idea or should I just start with a new condenser too?
Anyone make a air dam or will a piece of straight aluminum work just as good? My radiator sits right on the bar of the cradle so there's not much room for the air to squeeze through.
As for the AC condenser, yes it is dirty but I didn't want to release the freon and compressed air did nothing to remove the stuff stuck in it. So I'm going to cover it in degresser and use a power washer on it while still connected but with the radiator out of the way. Stupid idea or should I just start with a new condenser too?
Anyone make a air dam or will a piece of straight aluminum work just as good? My radiator sits right on the bar of the cradle so there's not much room for the air to squeeze through.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 3, 2014 at 12:33 PM.
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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when cleaning the condenser did you hit it with air from the front or the back?... it needs to be hit from the back to force the crap out that got jammed between the fins from the front side... it's much easier to do with the radiator out and there is no need to disconnect your ac lines... you can also tap the sides with the palm of your hand to help break the stuff loose while blowing it out, I spent a good 30-45 mins getting as much out as I could
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 469
Likes: 62
From: coconut creek, fl
air dam ain't the problem man I don't use one and my temps are 198 range in the heat iron block too. I recently sold a new 3 piece air dam I purchased because didn't notice any difference in temps. Most likely you have air in the cooling system