I found the ticking noise, every bolt on the header to head was loose on both heads. ****ing idiot. Now my cooling issue is still my only problem.

I drove home last night and 70mph it was 212* with the outside temp being 75*. It seems the faster I go the hotter it is. Cruising around 50mph or slower and it's around 200*. Dyno tune is back on for tomorrow at D3PE.

 

Awesome news man!! I didn't even think about header leaks.. That's usually the first thing to check...I didn't even think about it... Pulling the wire on #3 would lessen the exhaust leak and indicate a possible issue on that cyl.. Youre a lucky ****!

Go tune that bitch. Set up as much fan in front of the IC as you can... Try not to make pulls over 200* if possible.

You gonna lock the converter on the dyno? I have not figured out how to use "dyno mode" in the PCS software but there is a way you can activate it and lock the converter in 3rd gear.. I would definitely do that if you can figure out how. Your dyno numbers are gonna suck with the converter unlocked...Just prepare your self... Don't be surprised if you only see 550rwhp unlocked... Especially with THAT converter.

 

To be honest I don't know if the tuner has ever used the software either. I was hoping the software worked. Have you ever been able to lock it in 3rd gear?

And I'm sure they're going to dyno tune it in the heat of the day and it running below 200* will not be feasible with my ****. I was looking through some logs I had done a few weeks ago before this cooling issue and my temp hardly rose during a WOT pull and now it rises much more now. God I wished I knew what the issue was. Maybe I'll get lucky and the loose bolts were that issue too, lol.

 

You can probably call PCS tomorrow and ask them how to use the Dyno Mode in the soft ware... I've tried to activate it but its always "greyed out" so...


I've never locked mine at WOT... I just have the normal lock up in 4th at part throttle/50 mph set..

If you figure it out, let me know. That converter is probably gonna slip like mad on the dyno though. That's why I've never dynoed mine with the auto in it.

 

I hope you mean distilled and not purified. Purified water still has the minerals in it that will collect on everything inside and gunk things up.

 

After the dyno tune I'm going to replace the stat with a new 160 and then just buy enough coolant that is already 50/50 mix and call it a day. Will the stock air dam work with the ECS setup and bigger radiator? I doubt it's my issue but atleast I can rule something else out.

 

I had to cut the middle piece of my air dam in half and then remount it to the ecs cradle and it seems to be working just fine, I also have a dewitts radiator and spal fans and haven't had any cooling issues... which ecs intercooler do you have?... is there anything in the tune that can effect it getting hot with the ac on?... I'm at a loss as to what else it could be and hope you get it figured out

 

I have the IC that probably blocks 1/2 or more of the condenser and the blower filter barely has enough room to fit in there. I'm just wondering why my coolant temp actually goes up at 70mph to 212 when it's 75* outside but then drops about 12* when going below 70mph. I'm doing a lot of guessing trying to figure out why it all of a sudden started doing this.

My stock fans that I just bought don't actually form a good seal to the radiator. There's some parts where I could stick a pencil between the space. But I never really paid attention if there was a gap before I replaced them since the car ran fine before. When I get home in the morning I will take a picture of my setup and maybe someone sees something that jumps out at them. And just for ***** and giggles I'm going to pull the condenser out before heading to the tuner. Maybe it's not as clean as I think it is. My AC still turns off cruising sometimes for some reason when I have it on.

Is there a certain kind of tape I can get at Home Depot that can seal the fan shroud to the radiator and not fall apart due to the heat of the radiator?

Smurf I'm confused.

 

hmmm, I have the frame rail to frame rail intercooler so it's blocking almost twice as much area... could a collapsed coolant hose cause an issue like the one you're having?... just throwing ideas out there at this point

 

I'm all about possible fixes no matter how dumb they may sound.

The passenger side which goes to the tstat is fine. The upper hose when it bends to the radiator is pinched a bit when cold but believe it's not once the coolant is hot and pressurized. But I'm thinking of going ghetto a bit and

1. Running 2 zip ties vertical and 2 more horizontal around the radiator and fan shroud to make it seal all the way around.
2. Remove condenser
3. Move radiator more towards bumper on the top using 2 angled pieces of aluminum on either side to the frame. As it is now the top of the radiator is almost hitting the ABS contraption.
4. Possibly see if D3PE (place tuning my car and recent vendor of CF) can make me a top cover and air dam. I would like the top cover to use pins and to start low and angle up to the top of the radiator and hook around to the back of it.

 

As it was


After condenser removal and zip ties (only did 2 vertical)


After drive and how it's going to tuner. Didn't install pieces to move radiator. Drove around and I still see the about the same temps. It's about 75* outside and from idling to 70mph it's 190-203*.

 

Well, on the long drive going 70mph temp was 217-219*. Guess I know in a bit if it survived the dyno runs.

 

Wow your intercooler is way bigger and WAY closer to the radiator then mine.. You basically have no air gap at the bottom to pull air up thru...

No wonder yours runs so hot. You're gonna have to do some cradle modding to create a gap in between the IC and radiator...

 

Funny thing is a condenser goes between that HA. Maybe I'll move it far enough so I can add a pusher fan onto the condenser. Really been thinking about also adding an oil cooler.

When the condenser was still in there the gap from the radiator and condenser at the bottom was blocked by a support from the cradle.

 

yeah that is odd why it's so close, basically the end tanks on the radiator are the only thing keeping it from touching the intercooler with no room for the condenser... I have basically the same setup as you from ecs except I have the rail to rail intercooler and I have about a half inch gap between the intercooler and condenser... is it possible that your charge pipe is too short causing it to pull the top of the intercooler in towards the radiator and closing that gap?

here's a crappy pic of when I installed my intercooler... as I'm sure you know there is nothing mounting it from the top so in this pic it is just resting on my condenser but you can already see the amount of room I had in between the intercooler and radiator to install the condenser as compared to your pics... when I install the charge pipe it pushes the top of my intercooler towards the front of the car and opens up the gap between it and the condenser... you were supplied a cradle from ecs weren't you?... on the smaller intercooler I do know that you have to install the mounts yourself and their instructions aren't very much help, maybe it's possible they aren't mounted in an optimal position to allow the proper gap?

 

Aj, you weren't lying about being a dyno heartbreaker. LOL

 

Oh yeah? Do tell...


My guess.
525 rwhp on 10 psi thru the unlocked auto...

 

They had problems getting it to lock and the graph looks mighty weird at the start with the torque. He said the ECT never went above 205*. Made 13psi too. Car drives much better and timing increased 4* over my tune. On the way home I stayed around 225* at anything above 65mph and in traffic it stayed around 212. Wished I knew if my fans were spinning as fast as they should. They told me I should look into SPAL fans.

 

That's actually not that bad for an auto with a BIG converter..

That big torque spike is the converter flashing, that's normal. What is not normal is the dip smack in the middle of the HP curve.. That looks weird to me... Maybe a rich or lean spot there? I also think it should have gained more hp as the rpms climbed but....the converter could have started loosening up as the power came in...

The drag strip will tell you what you need to know.. That car will run 9.80s as it sits.

For reference, Alberts C5Z auto only dynoed 637hp, yet it ran 9.30s..

Don't worry about the Dyno numbers, just get the tune right.

Did y'all pull the air filter/inlet pipe?

 

Holy close Batman.....