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No I wasnt there and my fuel system can't handle it without the restrictor plate in. I'm going to the track next week if they're open and log it to see.
My last dyno tune with the manual didn't make more power after 5k rpm if at all.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 9, 2014 at 07:58 PM.
On the way home I stayed around 225* at anything above 65mph and in traffic it stayed around 212. Wished I knew if my fans were spinning as fast as they should. They told me I should look into SPAL fans.
I doubt fans will help you at 65 mph.
Again, increase the airflow through you radiators.
The easiest way to do it is to have vacuum behind the radiator.
That car is gonna run hard in good air.. I bet it goes 10.50s first trip.. Drag pack, velocity stack and track tuning, 9.80s in good air..
You're gonna have to do something different with the IC/radiator relationship.. There is no way that thing is going to cool down with the IC directly in front/on top of the condenser.
The reason it heats up at highway speeds is the engine is creating more heat from higher load, and your air flow is not increasing thru the radiator as it should to pull the heat out...
You're gonna have to mod the cradle to create a gap. Even then the air flow still sucks... But you can get it a little better I think....
I'm going to be racing my brother in his tank, '10 GT500. He claims he's making the same rwhp as me. He knows he'll lose since he's a manual and is hoping for 12s, LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He said he's getting a bigger blower soon and will own me. All I need is a ECS fuel system and I can remove the restrictor plate and go full 100% meth and smack that ***. Thinking if I fix my cooling issues then I may just spend the 1k and get the ECS fuel system.
I would like to thank this forum for helping me with my issue. I'm no expert and just enjoy working on my own car which I know would be impossible for guys like me without the internet and the simplicity of the LSx engine. Thank you and GM for the simplistic engine that is the golden standard for idiots like me.
Next week it's showing low 80s high 70s at race time. Either way I'll be getting video of me raping a Mustang, lol.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 10, 2014 at 08:16 PM.
I'm going to be racing my brother in his tank, '10 GT500. He claims he's making the same rwhp as me. He knows he'll lose since he's a manual and is hoping for 12s, LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He said he's getting a bigger blower soon and will own me. All I need is a ECS fuel system and I can remove the restrictor plate and go full 100% meth and smack that ***. Thinking if I fix my cooling issues then I may just spend the 1k and get the ECS fuel system.
I would like to thank this forum for helping me with my issue. I'm no expert and just enjoy working on my own car which I know would be impossible for guys like me without the internet and the simplicity of the LSx engine. Thank you and GM for the simplistic engine that is the golden standard for idiots like me.
Next week it's showing low 80s high 70s at race time. Either way I'll be getting video of me raping a Mustang, lol.
I assume you already have some good drag tires to run on?
If not, I have some 26x11.5x16 ET Street bias ply tires with about 30 passes on them if you want them.. Find some firebird or Camaro 16x8s and throw em on.. I'll make you a crack head deal on them...
Otherwise, get some good ET street drag radials before you hit the track.
I assume you already have some good drag tires to run on?
If not, I have some 26x11.5x16 ET Street bias ply tires with about 30 passes on them if you want them.. Find some firebird or Camaro 16x8s and throw em on.. I'll make you a crack head deal on them...
Otherwise, get some good ET street drag radials before you hit the track.
I have some hoosiers on 17s. Not a lot of sidewall but enough to whip up on a GT500. I'll probably do 1.8 sixties which is good enough. Later I'd like some 16s or 17s that have sidewalls.
I have some hoosiers on 17s. Not a lot of sidewall but enough to whip up on a GT500. I'll probably do 1.8 sixties which is good enough. Later I'd like some 16s or 17s that have sidewalls.
If the Hoosiers are the 275/40/17 drag radials, those hook great, especially on a sticky track. The 1" shorter diameter will help your gear ratio and tighten the converter some. Those should work well for you if they are fresh..
That car will go low 1.50 to high 1.40 60's easy! You are gonna be surprised how quick it runs. The problem is the heat/humidity and DA.. You'll have hell keeping the coolant temps down.. Better hit the radiator with the water hose after a pass to cool it back down to the 160s...
Keep it as cool as you can, I'd probably put a couple gals of race fuel in it for safety as well...
Okay, I'm starting to tear it down up front and want some opinions. I'm thinking of cutting off the radiator/IC support in the middle (in between the radiator support mounts) and bolt in a piece of straight aluminum to just see if it works. If it does, I'll back it up with a flat piece of steel.
I'll mount the IC up against the front of the frame and use a angled piece of aluminum which will hardly see any weight since it's mostly held up by the charge pipe to the TB. I'm wanting to close off the sides of the radiator which shouldn't be hard but time consuming.
I have the screen front plate which hasn't helped. But I noticed your top cover is basically on the condenser. I wonder if that works better than the top cover you get with ECS or AA kits.
I have the screen front plate which hasn't helped. But I noticed your top cover is basically on the condenser. I wonder if that works better than the top cover you get with ECS or AA kits.
yeah I am not familiar with the ECS part...but this is the only thing that has worked for me...I wish you well I know how frustrating it is
I'm going to try and move it as far forward as it can go in hopes I can get more airflow into the radiator. To do this I ordered a 12" hose to extend it so I can move the IC a few more inches forward. I've already got my flat aluminum bar in place but I'm not sure how well it'll work but I'm hoping it will. I'm also going back to a 160* tstat.
I'm thinking if I can completely box in the top with a top cover and the sides somewhat then that should help feed the airflow through the radiator but I don't have anything other than a grinder to make cuts. And cutting circles for the tubing should be interesting. Wonder if a dremel has an attachment that can can thin metal?