When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I remember reading something about this issue before but cant find anything.
My alky light is turning red but not green, and its obvious by the AFR that the alky isn't spraying.
Any ideas where to check?
Thanks
No; Is it incorporated in the check valve? (Cant say that I knew it had a filter)
I was thinking that the red was armed and ready and green meant the pump was working so it would "seem" that with a dirty filter it would still turn on (of course I could be completely wrong )
Thanks Smokin. I pulled it down and found it
I pulled the check valve/filter (there is one there) and here's where I am
It was not dirty so I still cleaned up everything and put it back together (blew through it to confirm clear)
I installed it and put the open end in a container and pressed the "test" button. The alcohol flows (not as strong as I though t it would) and the red light comes on, but he green never does.
AM I overlooking something?
Red means it's activated green means it has pressurized the system to the preset point of activating the green led. If your gain **** isnt on the highest setting turn it wide open then press the test button to see if the led goes green then. It's possible the pump may need a refresh.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Shoaf85
Red means it's activated green means it has pressurized the system to the preset point of activating the green led. If your gain **** isnt on the highest setting turn it wide open then press the test button to see if the led goes green then. It's possible the pump may need a refresh.
Red means it's activated green means it has pressurized the system to the preset point of activating the green led. If your gain **** isnt on the highest setting turn it wide open then press the test button to see if the led goes green then. It's possible the pump may need a refresh.
I sure hope not. I just ordered this pump MAYBE 1 1/2 years ago to replace one that was leaking. It would be a RELLY short life if this one is going bad since I drive the car less than 3000 miles a year and only go into boost (use alky) occasionally
It has a decent flow to it when I push the test button with the output going into a container, but its not turning green
I sure hope not. I just ordered this pump MAYBE 1 1/2 years ago to replace one that was leaking. It would be a RELLY short life if this one is going bad since I drive the car less than 3000 miles a year and only go into boost (use alky) occasionally
It has a decent flow to it when I push the test button with the output going into a container, but its not turning green
(I have it set on 7)
Do you have the engine running when you test? If not it may not go green.
Red means it's activated green means it has pressurized the system to the preset point of activating the green led. If your gain **** isnt on the highest setting turn it wide open then press the test button to see if the led goes green then. It's possible the pump may need a refresh.
Red mean its under 100% efficient and green means 100%,
Red means its under 12 volts and green is 12 volts..
In theory red means its working and spraying, just not to the full potential.. for whatever reason..
Meth is very corrosive and destroys rubber, thus why they say rebuild every 2 years and drain mirth from car of it sits thru winter. (I don't do that tho)
Red mean its under 100% efficient and green means 100%,
Red means its under 12 volts and green is 12 volts..
In theory red means its working and spraying, just not to the full potential.. for whatever reason..
Not from my understanding of the system. The green turn on point is actually adjustable as well but it is pressure related.
Below is a paragraph pulled straight from alky control's website.
Diagnostics. All of our systems are progressive. Period. This allows the system to commence spraying early with very low pressure. Way before detonation assistance is needed. Once system commences spraying an LED lights up red indicating system has activated. As the signal(MAP/MAF/Boost) to the controller increases so does the drive to the pump. Once the system pressurizes that LED will change color from Red to Green. This indicates the system now has developed pressure, meaning hoses/connections/pump are in proper working order. The rate of change of this LED from Red to Green now give a predictability of the system. Any changes to this transitional time of change will give indication of a system issue.
For example, filter clogs..
the system will transition from red to green instantly.
Nozzle clogs.. oops cant happen we have a filter.
Someone pours a bag of sand into the tank.. system lights up Red.. cant make pressure.. no Green condition.
See a basic setup provides a simple, reliable, easy to diagnose system.
I read that on the website when I was researching. I have eliminated any feed issues FROM the tank by blowing through lines. And I pulled the lines from the pump to the nozzles (cleaned the filter and checked the checked valve) and made sure they were clear.
As I mentioned, I tested it (I did not have it running) and it flows a pretty steady stream, but not like I would think a 250psi pump would produce. I drove it a couple of hrs ago and it still does not go green.
I wonder if there is a chance it could be in any of the control pieces like the map control, etc.
Sent ALKY Control a request note but know they wont see it until Tuesday, and in the past they have not been quick to respond to questions...
Testing with the SS line back into a bottle/tank usually will not allow you to build up enough system pressure since the nozzle is not attached when doing that. Therefore it usually will not go green during a recirculating test like that.
I usually turn **** on box to max which is 8. With car at idle I hold test button for about 2 seconds and it goes red to green quickly and then the car bogs down from going so rich at idle. That's how I would test my meth system before going out to race each day.
I also made it a habit over the years to refresh or swap a meth pump once a year. Preventive maintenance because all the cars I built and tuned at my old shop were all *meth dependent. *Had a couple stock bottom LS3s that ran mid to high 9s in the TX heat doing it this way.
I've also noticed cars that sit a lot and don't get driven much tend to develop leaks at the seals in the meth pump over time. And if you had your system dialed up enough that when making a WOT pass the LED would go from red to green, but suddenly it won't go to green anymore you probably have a leak in the system preventing it from building the usual system pressure.