Naturally Vain

Hey guys,

Here is where I am: 2004 C5 Z06
382 Rwhp/ 370 Torque Mods: TSP Headers and X-Pipe Blackwing Cold Air Intake Corsa Extreme Exhaust No Cats! Shortened C6 Shifter TPS Motorsports CCW SP500 Wheels

I also just bought a Stage 3 Jam Cam kit from Arun and will be getting that installed shortly. I will run this cam until I get the T-Trim A&A in a year or so.

Future Goals:I plan to get an A&A kit T-Trim Supercharger and the long term goal is around 650 RWHP on stock bottom end for now. My questions:Is there anything else you guys would recommend such as 160 Thermostat, New Spark Plugs, Timing Chain, Powerbond,ATI, or other brand Balancer etc while doing a cam install or just stick with the cam and the kit? From what I have read, I should have the crank pinned while doing the cam install.Which Harmonic Balancer should I go with right now if I am going to pin the crank and plan for a T-trim A&A? Or, should I just pin the stock one or get a new one in stock size and pin that? Should I get a 6 rib, stick with stock 6 rib or get an 8 rib?I would love all suggestions! I will run the cam only for a year or so at least! Next upgrade will be my clutch of course.

Smoken1

The Jam Cam will work just fine when you go FI
Timing chain, I went with Bret's chain and gears
ATI balancer 8 rib for my Procharger kit and Yes pin it while you are there

Things to consider:
Motor mounts and Diff mount, Pfadt is what I used
ECS trans/diff brace
Push rod upgrade and upgrade the rocker arm with the CHE or Straab bushing kit
A new oil pump Melling 10295 or 10296

I'm sure I am forgetting some stuff and I'm sure others will chime in with info

ascastil

Just a thought, but if you're lowering the cradle and put on a brace, might as well lower it all the way and drop in at least a C6Z fuel pump. You've got an 04 and itll drop right in. I'm using the C6Z pump, 91, meth and made 635hp.

aaronc7

160 Thermostat: Don't waste your time or money, I would recommend against it. Clean out your radiator/condenser while things are apart for the blower install. Larger radiator would be nice too but certainly not required

New Spark Plugs: NGK TR6 come with A&A kit

At 650whp I think you're starting to get reach the limits of a 6 rib setup setup and stock fuel pump (with BAP), so I would ask yourself if you really want to keep it at that level or see yourself pushing for more later.

At that level, stock fuel pump with BAP should be OK and 6 rib setup should be fine. Balancer I would get Summit C2501, stock replacement that is SFI rated. Get the usual cam kit, don't need anything special... hardened pushrods, springs. I run BTR. Like Smoken said, personally I would replace the oil pump while you're there too... 10295 is what I would do.

Stock fuel pump limit info varies quite a bit. Upgrade options for you include a drop in Walbro 450 or Lingenfelter makes a 450 kit that retains all stock bucket functionality (that's what I have). Or keep stock pump and add external secondary pump, like what the AA and ECS kits do. A smaller upgrade is the C6Z pump (apparently later LS3 pump was the same, I can't remember all details). There's not much hard data to show how much better the C6Z pump is over the regular one...so I went with the 450.

If you go 8 rib, just go ahead and get the AA secondary / direct drive setup. It's more or less same cost as getting 8 rib pulleys for all accessories. If you get their secondary drive kit though, it requires their custom IW balancer.

The upgrade blower option is the Ti trim now...little bit more power potential over the T trim.

I had similar goals to you and ended up upgrading the fuel pump and getting secondary drive / 8 rib to be safe. But I also have a built motor, so that probably makes a little bit easier for me to convince myself to turn up the power a bit down the road.

Naturally Vain

This is REALLY awesome info guys! And am at the crossroads of a decision for sure!

aaronc7 did you forge your internals when you did your Blower install or did you already have it done?


So here is what I have surmised so far from your guys input (does this seem accurate):

Build 1-around 650RWHP: Stock Block/internals: Timing Chain, 6 rib Summit C2501, stock replacement that is SFI rated, Jam Cam with Kit (which I just bought), stock fuel pump, Melling 10295 oil pump, A&A kit-Ti trim.

Build 2- OVER 650 RWHP: Forged motor/internals: Timing Chain, AA secondary / direct drive setup with custom IW balancer, Jam Cam with Kit, Walbro 450 or Lingenfelter 450 Fuel Pump, Melling 10295 oil pump, A&A kit Ti trim.


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Things to consider:
Motor mounts and Diff mount, Pfadt is what I used
ECS trans/diff brace
Push rod upgrade and upgrade the rocker arm with the CHE or Straab bushing kit (forged internals?)

Naturally Vain

Another question, if I went with Build 1, how difficult would it be to go to Build 2 down the road and would it be a lot more expensive than just going straight to Build 2?

Naturally Vain

Also for Clutch:

Build 1: Monster LT1-S double

Build 2: Monster LT1-S triple

Naturally Vain

Another thing to consider....Meth....from reading, I am assuming both builds can benefit from it and could be added at any time.


Any particular system that you guys prefer?

Smoken1

Your going to want to upgrade your push rods and use the CHE or Straab bushings are to replace the needle bearings in your stock rocker arms
Clutch I have no idea
Alky control for your meth system

aaronc7

My LS6 blew up previously, so it was already forged before going supercharger. It's just a basic rebuild, but with forged pistons/rods.

93 octane only 650 might be possible, but more octane will make it easier and safer. If you have E85 local that is definitely a good route, but you'll need to get a really robust fuel system. Methanol is another good option and the fact that it's on-demand only is nice. Many around here are brainwashed into thinking alky control is the only good kit, but in all honesty, they are all very similar and work well with a quality install...I run AEM. You might ask your tuner this question and get a kit they are familiar and comfortable with.

Clutch I have Monster LT1-S, but I did that pre-supercharger. If i was buying again now I'd probably get the LT1-SC for a little more power handling. But, centri superchargers don't make a lot of torque comparatively speaking, so the S is probably fine as long as you stay close to your original goal and aren't abusing the heck out of it at the track all the time. Otherwise it's a great clutch, it's OEM clutch material so it feels like an OEM clutch and shifts flawless at high rpm. It's a little more on/off feeling on engagement and a little noise at idle with the clutch pedal not depressed....but that is standard for multi discs.

Naturally Vain

We have 93 at every gas station here. I have looked into E-85 as well, but sometimes its a little bit difficult to come by so I am going to stick with 93 for now.

What I am definitely going to get done in a few weeks is my Jam Cam. From what I gather, the 8 rib balancer is not necessary if I want to do Build 1: 650 RWHP or so and that the 6 rib will work just fine. Does this seem correct? Would it be pointless to go with an 8 rib balancer if I just wanted to stick with 650 RWHP-Build 1?

So for my upcoming Jam Cam install I have the kit with Pushrods, Springs, retainers and all of that and the Install kit-seals gaskets etc.... I will get the 10295 Melling Oil Pump. What timing chain would you recommend? I see a few different choices including the Katech C-5 R which seems to be the absolute best. Should I get that one? Anything else I should do or buy while its getting the cam done and pre-supercharged?

aaronc7

I think you'll be OK with 6 rib for 650whp... 8 rib is probably overkill and adds over $1000 in cost.

I got LS2 timing chain and it's been fine, I didn't go for the super baller ones.

I would do the rocker arm bushings while you're there too. I did the comp cam ones back in the day....but apparently a lot of issues have cropped up with those. I will one day probably replace w/ CHE or straab as talked about above. (next time i replace springs).

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. You'll get a lot of opinions on this. I think this is a reasonable compromise between not changing anything while you're there vs going overboard.... lots of labor involved to do the cam swap, to me it's a no brainer to swap the oil pump and such while you're there.

Naturally Vain

Is this the Straub? https://straubtechnologies.com/ls-bu...trunnion-kits/

aaronc7

Yep, looks like it. I personally haven't dug too deep into those yet.... my rockers / comp cam trunnions haven't started making any weird noises or anything yet.

neutron82

you can always get an 8 rib balancer now and run the 6 rib belt on it for the time being and then later on you can upgrade the rest and not have to touch the balancer... if you think you might end up with a secondary drive try asking a&a if they will sell you the balancer for their drive separately, it has the center section machined out for another 4 rib belt... if you buy the standard innovators west balancer or any other brand you will have to do it over again if you do the a&a secondary drive... just something to consider

Naturally Vain

I'm definitely going to ask them! When I was looking at Powerbond as a possibility, I did come across this one and is nearly the same price as the others they offer. Would thjs be a good, viable option?

http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?qt%3D100%26vin%3D1g1yy12s345109523% 26hd%3D0%26part_number%3DPB81117SC

Supercharger Performance Balancer 8 Rib

Part Number: PB81117SC

Timing MarksY

Overall OD (In)7.50

Nose OD (In)2.13

Overall Width (In)3.10

Crank Bore (In)1.48

Ring Width (In)2.68

Bolt Holes9

Counterweight BalanceNeutral, no counterweight

Number of Integrated Pulleys2

Pulley Type 1Serpentine

Pulley Grooves 14

Pulley Type 2Serpentine

Pulley Grooves 28

Pulley OD 1 (In)7.06

Pulley OD 2 (In)7.33

Crank Trigger/Exciter PlateN

SFI CertifiedY

Naturally Vain

Is this the separate balancer: https://aacorvette.com/shop/product/...ive-balancers/

Naturally Vain

I also found this balancer by Powerbond: 8 rib-10 percent Overdrive

Dayco Engine Harmonic Balancer PBO81117SC10

ascastil

A&A also has a standard 6 rib that's reasonably priced. I would have bought one but went with IW 10% od, 8 rib. If I ever decide to go full 8 rib on everything I'll have to sell the balancer I have though which sucks but oh well.

Naturally Vain

I saw that one as well on their site and its one of my top choices for sure. Do you wish you would have went with the A&A 6 rib instead?