I'm working on a 6 bolt girdle system that can adapt to both Alum and iron blocks (no welding).
Let me know if interested, I'll be testing on my next build with an LS6 block and 4.8 iron block to see how well it works.

From what I've learned, the "weld on tabs" that ERL used to do caused some cracking issues and welding the alum stresses the block, and is just too darn hard on cast iron.

after market blocks are 2300 and up, so the system has to be very easy to install, affordable, and work as well as a 6 bolt casting supporting up to 2000 HP

This is all grass roots try and see what happens engineering. I've got some CAD support *(I can't draw a decent stick man) and I'll be mocking up prototype parts to see if it's viable.

I have some engineering time (my bro) to validate the structural parts and see if this could be made into a purely bolt on "add on" girdle that can be installed on a block with no welding

key is tying all the structure together to distribute the clamping force enough to secure the additional bolts without flexing. With the cool 3d print capabilities, I believe it's indeed possible and I'm going to get off my d3@d @$$ and see what I can do.

Let me know what you all think

(I'm not suffering from insanity, I enjoy every minute!!)

 

Could be interesting and I am sure some might be willing to buy it. You might find more interest and customers on pages like sloppy mechanics or the places where using a junkyard engine is popular. Especially since it sounds like your product would be reusable if the engine had to be changed. The guys pushing SBE's to the max and blowing them up kind of stuff.

 

the sloppy mechanics got me started on what I call "truck bombs" robbing ls engines at the local pick a part and slapping it together with truck manifold turbo setups. I used to laugh at the thought of snagging an old truck motor and boosting it till it blows, but with good tuning and E85 they are getting hundreds of runs out of $300 junk yard short blocks that put down a surprising amount of steam. The turbos when set up right are a bit easier on the engine (no crank loading) and constant pressure on the pistons seems to make the "lil thumper" engines as I call them do pretty well in the ROI department for junkyard warrior builds.

Since pushing water becomes a limit,. the 6 bolt solution is a way to hold more cylinder pressure but currently its a very expensive step up to run more hp than around 900 or so. 6 Bolt parts (head studs exc) cost way too much so custom 1/2 studs from the old fords work better and just buy the outer studs. Now Speedway and other companies are offering up el cheapo 6 bolt heads in both cathedral and ls3 ports for under a grand. Freshen up the short block with some better rods and forged pistons and you can push 1200 hp without getting too spendy. At much above 900 or so, the 6 bolt becomes attractive for better durability and the ability to run 1500 or more out of a stock bottom end. The small bore blocks in cast iron or alum provide a lighter piston, and more meat for the head gasket and sealing. With LS swaps so popular, a lower cost solutions is needed to offer the performance of the lsx or ls next blocks at a much more affordable cost.

The 4.8 and 5.3 alum or iron blocks offer a very strong foundation to build on for boost and they are so plentiful that the racers willing to swap them often and have spares on hand like the nitro boys. Use it like them like a bic lighter. Burn it up and swap it out. They are so cheap it's not a bad way to go!

My fav quote is "my engine cost less than your pistons" And he was right. I still like to stuff forged bits in the engine at above 700 hp for durability, but with E85 and good tuning the sloppy boys have proved that 900 works well with stock internals with the right tuning (for a little while at least :>

 

I can make cad models if you need help, and can export the models to get them printed

 

Interested to see what this ends up like!

i remember watching a video on a UK rally cross engine builder. The block they were using kept lifting heads due to the block distorting around where the heads seated in the block (they were running stupid high cylinder pressures)! There solution was to add a 12mm thick steel plate to the top of the block. The liners then seated into the steel plate and the block. It’s totally elevated the problem as it helped spread the loading across all the cylinder head bolts, and thus across the whole block, with each cylinder firing. Clever stuff!

I guess you could do something similar and have tabs on side as well for the extra bolt holes.Not sure it would be cheap or easy to do though!

 

deck plates are a great way to go as they can be pretty thick and then run stretch liners and you have a strong foundation. All big bucks and will take you above 2k just to get started

I want to take advantage of the 4.8/5.3 blocks inherent strength and add the 6 bolt hardware without welding. I'll have to mock it up so it can be traced and printed. I'm looking to both bolt and use industrial epoxy to hold the pieces.

Like to partially fill the block too as it supports the upper liner strength where they tend to split. The ERL mods were uber expensive, in the sloppy tradition, not going there. This is for the truck bomb junkyard warrior who wants to go faster without stepping up to a full aftermarket block. Need to see if I can make this strong enough without welding to do the job. The block has some casting bumps and the bolt holes on the exh side that will work. And a precision piece on the intake side will be a bit of a challenge