There no access to pin it with the TT installed. It’s buried in there. You pin 1st then feed the linkage through the hole in the TT bell housing as it goes together.

 

Then I have a small project ahead of me tomorrow night now. LOL.

 

Just curious, but I snapped this screenshot from a youtube vid. It looks like with the center console out you can reach the pin near the shifter from inside the car? Or were you referencing the back end of the shift linkage that's enclosed between the TT and transmission?

 

Quick update. Here is a thread about my long 2 week delay:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ispreloading=1

I hope to be moving on soon but work is busy right now...hopefully will make some progress soon on my days off.

 

Some good progress today. Started by reinstalling the torque tube containing the new input shaft from RKT Performance.

See this thread about my issues: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ispreloading=1

Today we bled the clutch using the new Tick speed bleeder. I guess the fluid needed changing anyway lol.

Before:


After:


Double checked the Tick speed bleeder and didn't see any leaks, correct washer orientation and tight.


Then was able to get the rear cradle carefully back into the car.:

 

Agreed with post 3. I'd go with Morel Drop In lifters. They've changed part number since a friend or I bought some. Straub and BTR are the 2 places to order from.

Measure pushrods. Also some measure pushrods tip to tip other cup the push rod ends and come in shorter, something to bring up when you order. Summit sells 11/32 diameter which are a good budget option for thicker pushrods.

 

I’m referring to the back end.

 

Thanks guys. Today I finished installing the LG pros and finally got to put the car back on the ground after several weeks of work and a few setbacks along the way.



The car started right up and no major issues. The only thing that came up was a maxed out coolant temp sensor and this display right after turning it over:


Turns out I forgot to plug in the coolant temp sensor behind the alternator. Once I plugged it in, the gauge worked properly and I've put about 40-50 miles on it so far to start breaking in the clutch.

I do have a few codes which were expected. I removed the entire air pump system as well as the rear O2 sensors, but no tune yet. I removed the air pump fuse, plugged the intake opening, and made sure the vacuum line on the back of the intake is still attached. Now I did use the front O2 sensors with some extenders. I know others have recommended using the rears in the front, but I couldn't find a suitable adapter and LG only makes flat adapters for 97-03, not the square 04s.



My codes so far:
P0141 HC
P0161 HC
B0338 HC

From what I've read, it's OK to keep driving correct?

My plan is to drive the car for another 400-500 miles to break in the clutch. After that, I will start installing the AA kit / cam / fuel system. Once everything is in, I will get Vengeance to send a base tune for the 80# injectors so I can drive it to them for some dyno time.

Will plan to update after the clutch break-in.

 

Great stance. Nice to see one that's clean and running! I've got to do some catch-up work now.

 

Thanks. Other than driving and putting some miles on the clutch, I finally got the gauges wired up properly. I ended up splicing into the trunk release button (brown wire) which gives me 12V switched / lights on for the boost gauge. I used an add-a-fuse on empty fuse #22 with 5 amp fuse for the AEM wideband. Found a ground near the dead pedal.

Hoping to start the AA kit soon!

 

Small update.

Started pulling off the front pieces.


Drained the coolant and all was well.


Then I pulled the water pump.


The steering rack actually came out very easy from the driver's side. I didn't have to drop the cradle


Pulled the radiator. I'm going to try and keep the condenser in place while pulling the cam. I think I can make it work


Decided to go ahead and buy an impact wrench today. Honestly was worth every cent. I had the crank bolt out in 10 seconds.


Then used this tool to remove the crank pulley, I picked it up from Amazon. Again with the impact only took a few seconds. 100% recommend this tool









Hope to start the cam install soon and get the trunion kit / pushrods / valve springs done as well. Then I can start getting this AA kit in the car

 

I've not had much time off this past week, but I did manage to get a few things done.

Finally was able to pull the cam using the wooden 5/16" dowel method. It worked great and didn't have any issues.




Installed the new Tick stage 2 blower cam and torqued all of the cam plate / retainer bolts / sprocket bolts to spec with red locktite.


I went with the Melling 10295 pump, red spring, black o-ring.


New front seal installed and got the front cover back on after that.

I have a few days off coming up so hopefully I can keep moving forward. I need to get a T40 torx plus bit to torque the ATI balancer to spec and then I can get it installed. I also need a PS pulley puller to install the C6 pulley before I can get the PS pump back in the car.

 

There has been some delay between work and waiting on tools / parts, but making some progress. Removed the stock rockers and pressed in the new Straub trunnions / bushings






Also torqued the ATI balancer after the T40 torx plus bit arrived...I couldn't find one locally. You would think they would toss one in the kit for the money lol. I ended up going with an ARP crank bolt too



Then needed to wait for the ATI pin kit to arrive. It wasn't cheap but I didn't want to risk messing up the crank. I think it turned out pretty well. I did a quick dry fit of the balancer on the crank to make sure there was appropriate clearance for the keyway.











My air hose arrived so tomorrow will try and tackle the valve spring swap using the air compressor method. I've also got to replace the power steering pulley with the C6 pulley now that my puller has arrived. Getting a little closer to installing the blower. 3 days off so hopefully I can knock out some stuff.

 

Got some work done recently. Swapped out the old power steering pump pulley for the C6 version





Also went ahead and replaced the AC belt tensioner and idler pulleys since I was there and the current ones are almost 20 years old.





Then I installed the head unit and bracket. Just a heads up, the instructions were not a lot of help here. I probably pulled the head unit on and off about 10 times trying to get the correct spacers in their spots as well as make sure the bolt length was correct....and then fight the belt to get it in position. This thing is heavy lol





Then I got to fight the intercooler this afternoon along with the metal panels. I got it pretty close but wasn't able to create a perfect "seal" at the bottom of the intercooler / metal panel. I may end up putting some weatherstripping in the gaps?









Started assembling the plumbing and BOV



I ended up using the compressed air method to swap out the valve springs and it worked really well. I also spent time to measure the pushrods using a comp cam pushrod length tool. Here were my measurements at zero lash on cam base circle for each cylinder.



Now the pushrods I have currently are Tick 7.400" that I ordered with my cam kit. This would give me somewhere between 0.0625" - 0.0875" preload on the stock LS6 lifters which I think will be in the ballpark. Finally reinstalled the rockers and torqued everything down.





Finally I'm waiting on a Dewitts cutdown C5 radiator and cutdown fans to arrive. I'm going to run the AA dongle and see if I can keep the radiator cradle at stock position (not dropped with spacers) to free up some ground clearance. I decided to keep the stock thermostat and will tune the fans instead.






The DRM aluminum steering rack bushing arrived today so tomorrow I'll try to reinstall the steering rack / ABS bracket / alternator and run the remainder of the plumbing.

 

Tuning the fans will work fine. While at it, you can also rig a manual switch to run them when you park or someone sells a relay which will run them for a set period.

Amazed you took the effort to remove the stock steering pulley intact. I've gone ahead and cracked two of them out in the past.

The lowered cradle is not the end of the world if you end up having to do it. But I agree that it would be easier to run without it.

Seems we're having similar headaches. Im doing mine eith the engine on the stand and its still driving me nuts. Glad to be piecing it together ahead of time because there are some spots which would be a pain going back and forth with it all in the car.

Looks good. Eager to see it run. And i am very jealous of your polished CCWs as mine are sitting in a closet corroded and angrily demanding half a day with the polishing wheel.
​​​​

 

Lol yeah there are parts of this project that would be really nice to have the engine out. Hopefully your build is going well. And my CCWs look ok on the photos, but really need a polish. I'm planning to do a really good detail / paint correction once all of this is done and tuned.

Small update:

Spent a lot of time trying to line up the hoses and clamps. I was able to adjust everything so it's no rubbing or coming into contact with the cradle or other friction spots. The cuts aren't perfect but it gets the job done.

 

i have never done the compressed air method. how well does the cylinder hold air? i would hate to put up with hissing and compressor running while working.

 

It actually holds air pretty well. I used this tool from Bryan Tooley Racing

https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...3-4-8-5-3-6-0/



The compressor didn't have to kick over that much during the swap to hold pressure, and the swap didn't take that long. I didn't drop any valves so I was pleased.

Or you could just do it like this guy and let the valves fall

 

How does that one adapt / work?

 

So the threaded end goes into the spark plug hole and you attach a 1/4" NPT air hose fitting to the other. Then you hook it up to your air compressor and pressurize the cylinder. It didn't take much pressure to support the valves.