When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good Evening Corvette forum, I have been a long time reader on this forum, and an owner of a 2003 C5 6 speed for over 3 years now. The only mods I have right now is a C6Z06 shifter, x-pipe and Borla Cat back. My question is, I am currently installing a new A&A kit on my 03' right now, and when going though the instructions I read about dropping the radiator. My question is, can I just get a Dewitts cut down radiator to avoid this step? I was reading this post:
This gave me a good idea that it is possible to NOT have to lower the radiator support with a Dewitts cut down radiator, but was hopefully looking for a direct answer if I can fit the provided intake and supercharger piping without dropping the radiator. I am lowered on stock bolts, but the clearance I have left is important to me. Would prefer If I did not have to hack up things on the support, and leave it how it is.
I have already emailed Josh @ A&A, and await his repsonse. Just looking for other observations on the fitment with the cut down Dewitts radiator. Look forward to what everyone on here things.
Good Evening Corvette forum, I have been a long time reader on this forum, and an owner of a 2003 C5 6 speed for over 3 years now. The only mods I have right now is a C6Z06 shifter, x-pipe and Borla Cat back. My question is, I am currently installing a new A&A kit on my 03' right now, and when going though the instructions I read about dropping the radiator. My question is, can I just get a Dewitts cut down radiator to avoid this step? I was reading this post:
This gave me a good idea that it is possible to NOT have to lower the radiator support with a Dewitts cut down radiator, but was hopefully looking for a direct answer if I can fit the provided intake and supercharger piping without dropping the radiator. I am lowered on stock bolts, but the clearance I have left is important to me. Would prefer If I did not have to hack up things on the support, and leave it how it is.
I have already emailed Josh @ A&A, and await his repsonse. Just looking for other observations on the fitment with the cut down Dewitts radiator. Look forward to what everyone on here things.
Yes, with the cut down radiator it will fit without shimming the cradle down. I was able to make it work with the A&A YSi kit.
Yes, with the cut down radiator it will fit without shimming the cradle down. I was able to make it work with the A&A YSi kit.
Wish I knew this when I had my A&A installed. I would have gladly paid for the radiator to keep the cradle in the same spot vs hitting every 3" speed bump.
Thanks for the replies. I actually got a reply from Josh over at A&A, and his feedback was: "My experience has been you will still need the spacers even with the shorter radiator. You can also adjust your front ride height back up a little bit to help offset. You can also delete the plastic duckbill on the intercooler to help with ground clearance." - josh
So I guess I will have to see how it goes. Hopefully I do not have to drop the cradle, but I will only know once I get in there.
From everyone else's experience who have installed the A&A kit with the cut down radiator, is there any steps I need to change for the install? I will be opening up the box that the supercharger was delivered in this weekend. My Christmas gift to myself!
In the end though, I will have an upgraded radiator either way. Onto the install!
Thanks for the replies. I actually got a reply from Josh over at A&A, and his feedback was: "My experience has been you will still need the spacers even with the shorter radiator. You can also adjust your front ride height back up a little bit to help offset. You can also delete the plastic duckbill on the intercooler to help with ground clearance." - josh
So I guess I will have to see how it goes. Hopefully I do not have to drop the cradle, but I will only know once I get in there.
From everyone else's experience who have installed the A&A kit with the cut down radiator, is there any steps I need to change for the install? I will be opening up the box that the supercharger was delivered in this weekend. My Christmas gift to myself!
In the end though, I will have an upgraded radiator either way. Onto the install!
You do not need to drop the cradle with the cut down radiator. Some slight trimming on the sheet metal in the intercooler area and it fits right in. Is it tight? Yes.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I called Dewitts, and they said they should have a sale starting after the New Year, so I am just waiting for that. If it is good enough, I may pick up their fans along with the radiator as well.
I started on the beginnings of the install for the A&A kit. Starting with the Valve springs first to get that out of the way. More details to come, along with some pictures.
I was going to say you do indeed still need to drop the cradle a little with the Dewitt's, but I see Josh confirmed. 69GTO also might be right if you do a little extra modding to make it work. A&A designs their kit to be bolt on so of course most people just bolt it in on and go and that results in needing to still drop the cradle. I wish I could figure out what cut down radiator I have because I was able to make it fit without spacers AND still have enough room for a true 4" intake pipe. I've looked at many examples and no match. My best guess is it's custom, which sucks if I ever have replace it lol.
I was going to say you do indeed still need to drop the cradle a little with the Dewitt's, but I see Josh confirmed. 69GTO also might be right if you do a little extra modding to make it work. A&A designs their kit to be bolt on so of course most people just bolt it in on and go and that results in needing to still drop the cradle. I wish I could figure out what cut down radiator I have because I was able to make it fit without spacers AND still have enough room for a true 4" intake pipe. I've looked at many examples and no match. My best guess is it's custom, which sucks if I ever have replace it lol.
Yep, trim the sheet metal in the intercooler area a tad, no spacers needed, and the A&A snout fits. I never tried a 4” intake tube though.
Well, I got my order from Dewitts in a few days ago. Still in the boxes so no real eye candy yet. BUT, here are some pics of the progress I have made so far.
Here are the LS6 GM Performance springs I bought to replace my current 20 year old LS1 springs. Not changing the cam, so these will provide plenty of valve control.
Here are the springs. No they are not supposed to be blue anymore. I contacted Brian Tooley Racing, and they confirmed I received the correct springs.
Got new seals along with the valve springs from BTR.
Valve springs and new valve seals
I used an air compressor, and screwed in a connection to the spark plug holes to hold the valves up. I ran it at 80psi, and did not have an issue at all.
Old springs and seals out, new seals in. These were much easier then the last 2 piece seals/valve seat I installed on my T/A.
New LS6 springs ready to be compressed
All springs installed.
Rocker arms ready to go back on in the order they came off. I did NOT upgrade the trunions. I did not feel the need to with stock 2003 ls1 cam.
Old LS1 springs and valve seals.
Here you can see the LS6 spring on the left, and the LS1 on the right. The LS6 does look taller, but I assume that is due to wear and time on the LS1. The LS6 spring diameter is bigger though, as well as their appears to be one more coil on the LS6 springs.
I changed out my old power steering/alt bracket for the new 2004 style one. You can clearly see where they changed it.
I also swapped out the power steering pulley to an LS2 style one. It is much stronger, and you can bolt the pump on without taking off the bracket.
I removed my rack and pinon to remove the balancer. I was going to change the seal as well. Wanted all the room I could manage. The front seal was also change, as it was the only thing that was leaking on my Vette.
Here you can see the DRM Bilsteins I have on my car. I have the factory 2001+ Z51 springs, with C6 Z51 sway bars as well. This combination is AMAZING on the street. I am so happy with the way it handles. I have my alignment set to factory C5 z06 settings, except I only run - up front -0.4 and -0.3 in the rear.
Removal of the factory balancer. You can see the silver paint line I put on the balancer about 5k miles ago, some time in 2021. My balancer did not fail, but I was already in there, so I replaced mine with a factory replacement power bond, like @Toys4Life did. I followed his video on this one.
I removed the front seal by putting screw though it, and simply pulling it off.
Here is the new balancer with the old one. I will draw a line on this one when I get around to installing it. I am also using an ARP bolt, just cause it makes me feel better about myself. Nothing wrong with the GM one, I just like the ARP torque sequence better.
Hopefully I will find time to putting some of this back together this weekend, and hopefully get the blower parts installed. I will post updates as I get around to them
Last edited by Redbeard_777; Jan 12, 2024 at 10:17 PM.
You do not need to drop the cradle with the cut down radiator. Some slight trimming on the sheet metal in the intercooler area and it fits right in. Is it tight? Yes.
Do you have any pictures on the area you trimmed? I am getting ready to install the inter-cooler sheet metal.
Seems like you've got the proper "upgrades" already lined up. Looks like you're using another GM balancer? If so, I'd recommend at least using a Summit replacement vs another OEM piece. Unless something has changed, the new OEM balancers are the same as the old balancers which are known to fail frequently.
Do you have any pictures on the area you trimmed? I am getting ready to install the inter-cooler sheet metal.
I wish I did. If you mount the intercooler and then the sheet metal, you will see where it overhangs on the bottom. The notch for cold piping to go through will also need to be trimmed up top.
I wish I did. If you mount the intercooler and then the sheet metal, you will see where it overhangs on the bottom. The notch for cold piping to go through will also need to be trimmed up top.
Thanks for giving me a place to start. I will keep that in mind when installing these today.
Wish I had some better pics before I removed it to go with a Huron kit. This is with the cradle at the factory position though.
I noticed in the picture that you do not have any upper radiator mounts on here. I was trying to use the A&A provided ones, and they are too short, and require about an inch spacer from the frame to the bracket to fit right. What solution did you come to for the upper mounts with the Dewitts radiator, while not lowering the radiator?
I noticed in the picture that you do not have any upper radiator mounts on here. I was trying to use the A&A provided ones, and they are too short, and require about an inch spacer from the frame to the bracket to fit right. What solution did you come to for the upper mounts with the Dewitts radiator, while not lowering the radiator?
There is a mount on the passenger side. The driver side wouldn’t fit with how the catch can was routed. I used a spacer under the top mounts to make up the difference. Might even be able to use the ones designed for dropping the cradle, not sure if they will have to be shortened or not.
There is a mount on the passenger side. The driver side wouldn’t fit with how the catch can was routed. I used a spacer under the top mounts to make up the difference. Might even be able to use the ones designed for dropping the cradle, not sure if they will have to be shortened or not.
You know, it is funny that you should say that, cause that is exactly what I was doing! Now two of the spacers are different height in my kit, so I went and got fender washers for 1/4" x 1.5" bolts, and just installed it that way. Since you have yours set up that way, i assume it clears the hood just fine. Thanks for the advice!
You know, it is funny that you should say that, cause that is exactly what I was doing! Now two of the spacers are different height in my kit, so I went and got fender washers for 1/4" x 1.5" bolts, and just installed it that way. Since you have yours set up that way, i assume it clears the hood just fine. Thanks for the advice!
If I remember correctly, I think I had to trim a tiny tiny bit off of one of the humps of the hood, but it was very minimal, and worth it to me for the added ground clearance. When you close the hood for the first time, just be cautious and slow, if it rubs anything, you will be able to tell before you out pressure down to latch it.
Edit: I think it was right in this area, and it was just a little notch.
Some updates for you guys. Got the Dewitts radiator installed with the help of this thread.
Removed the old radiator, that thing was in there pretty good and had no intentions of coming out.
Mine was pretty clogged up. My condenser was as well. I probobly spent about 20-30 min cleaning out the condenser with an air compressor and a shop vac. There was little rocks, dirt, hair, and other things that did not belong in there at all.
A closer look at all the clogged fins
Here is a picture of the ARP bolt installed on the crank after pinning int.
Dewitts cut down radiator!
Installed. Went in much easier then the old one came out. Needed to slightly bent the bottom a/c line to make room for the angled drain petcock.
Here is the shorter spacer and a stack of fender washers of the A&A radiator hold down. I may make a custom spacer later, or have the brackets that hold the radiator cut off and re-welded 1 inch lower. For now, this works just fine.
Here is the different height in spacers, which is why I did not use all 4 of them.
On a different note, the pulleys that A&A sent me are all 8 rib pulleys, is this normal? They included the 6 rib belt, and I did not get any specially drive. I will get some pictures some pictures up shortly.
Just a quick update, got the blower installed, and noticed a potential issue. Did any of you guys run into this? The blower bracket is touching the radiator hose on the waterpump side.
Blower installed.
Blower bracket slightly touching the radiator hose on the waterpump side.
Hose also touching one of the bolts on the blower housing itself. Anyone else run into this issue? Will cutting the hose at the end by about an inch solve this?