My dyno graph (finally)
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
My dyno graph (finally)
Finally got around to loading my runfiles into a demo Winpep and producing a graph of the results.
The setup:
Forged 383 stroker motor built by Norris Motorsports (now Next Level Performance)
LGM LT Headers with high flow cats
Z06 Ti exhaust
A&A Stage II Heads
Comp 218/226 114 XE Cam
Racetronix Fuel Pump
LS1Speed billet fuel rails w/ boost referenced regulator
Mototron 60lb/hr injectors
A&A D1SC Procharger kit
9.5:1 CR
What do you guys think? Looks like it's leaning out a little bit up top...time for a BAP or larger fuel pump. I also noticed a TON of belt dust this past weekend while swapping my water pump. I'm thinking with some minor tweaks I could hit 650rwhp (just gotta fix that pesky air and fuel!) This run had a little KR in the middle which is why the curve is not as smooth as you'd expect.
The setup:
Forged 383 stroker motor built by Norris Motorsports (now Next Level Performance)
LGM LT Headers with high flow cats
Z06 Ti exhaust
A&A Stage II Heads
Comp 218/226 114 XE Cam
Racetronix Fuel Pump
LS1Speed billet fuel rails w/ boost referenced regulator
Mototron 60lb/hr injectors
A&A D1SC Procharger kit
9.5:1 CR
What do you guys think? Looks like it's leaning out a little bit up top...time for a BAP or larger fuel pump. I also noticed a TON of belt dust this past weekend while swapping my water pump. I'm thinking with some minor tweaks I could hit 650rwhp (just gotta fix that pesky air and fuel!) This run had a little KR in the middle which is why the curve is not as smooth as you'd expect.
Last edited by Tony @ MPH; Sep 7, 2004 at 09:58 PM.
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Glad to see you get the graph up so we can see the numbers. With the things you mentioned, you do have issues to fix... but then again who didnt!! 
get them taken care of one by one and enjoy the heck out of your new setup!! 
VR
get them taken care of one by one and enjoy the heck out of your new setup!! VR
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Thanks I think the other thing to mention is that these pulls were done when it was damn near 100 degrees outside. And yes the numbers are SAE corrected but I guarantee that the corrected numbers on pulls done when it's 60 to 70 degrees outside will still be quite a bit higher...
I think the other thing to mention is that these pulls were done when it was damn near 100 degrees outside. And yes the numbers are SAE corrected but I guarantee that the corrected numbers on pulls done when it's 60 to 70 degrees outside will still be quite a bit higher...
Last edited by Tony @ MPH; Sep 7, 2004 at 10:57 PM.
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Originally Posted by diynoob
What do you guys think? Looks like it's leaning out a little bit up top...time for a BAP or larger fuel pump. I also noticed a TON of belt dust this past weeken This run had a little KR in the middle which is why the curve is not as smooth as you'd expect
Nice #s
JB
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by jbsblownc5
I would add the BAP and flatten that curve out a bit up top. The KR can be cured by a bit of Torco.
Nice #s
JB
Nice #s
JB
, and thanks. Been thinking about adding Torco and meth for a while, just gotta get around to it (have been addressing other drivability/heat issues before trying to squeeze a little more power out of the car).
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From: Clouds Over California
What is your fuel pressure? The band aid fix would be to swap out the 60lb injectors for a set of Seimens 75lb. You are running a little bit bigger motor than a 346cid.
One of my dyno runs with the D1 and ATI TWIN ICs, resembles your graph...exept I made more power with 42lb injectors and the stock pump. You can wait to the new Racetronix hits the streets or see what the BAP can do for you. I also dyno'd at 100*. My AFR looked almost exactly the same...my guess is that your fuel pressure is the issue.
Belt dust is normal...belt shredding is not.
One of my dyno runs with the D1 and ATI TWIN ICs, resembles your graph...exept I made more power with 42lb injectors and the stock pump. You can wait to the new Racetronix hits the streets or see what the BAP can do for you. I also dyno'd at 100*. My AFR looked almost exactly the same...my guess is that your fuel pressure is the issue.
Belt dust is normal...belt shredding is not.
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I can send you a bracket to swing the alternator out a bit to tighten the belt up. That will help a lot. Just be sure you are running the late model GM alternator/power steering bracket. It's a lot stronger. The boss that holds the idler pulley tends to snap off on the older ones when stressed too much.
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by Andy@AandACorvette
I can send you a bracket to swing the alternator out a bit to tighten the belt up. That will help a lot. Just be sure you are running the late model GM alternator/power steering bracket. It's a lot stronger. The boss that holds the idler pulley tends to snap off on the older ones when stressed too much.
I do have the latest power steering bracket and I am running one of your bracket swings to provide additional tension. The bracket swing helps, but it looks like I'm slipping a bit up top. The belt is incredibly tight and I suspect that the belt tensioner is close to being 100% compressed as I have to pry the belt over the alternator pulley using a lot of elbow grease (and I mean a LOT).
Are there other things I should look at? I think at one point someone mentioned that you could accidentally mount the tensioner on the main bracket incorrectly which could contribute to belt slip? Or is that my senility acting up again?
Melting Slicks
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From: Wesley Chapel Fl
Noob..are you running the Reichard pulley? As for Andy's bracket...I do not think you can install it incorrectly. It should not not matter which mounting point is fixed and which one slides.
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by EatRice
Noob..are you running the Reichard pulley? As for Andy's bracket...I do not think you can install it incorrectly. It should not not matter which mounting point is fixed and which one slides.
Is there any way to get more belt wrap out of the A&A bracket setup?
Last edited by Tony @ MPH; Sep 10, 2004 at 10:24 AM.
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From: Clouds Over California
Originally Posted by diynoob
I did install a Reichard pulley after this dyno was run... it looked like it was showing boost a little earlier but the peak boost was about the same. I haven't dynoed since installing the Reichard pulley. As I watch my boost, it does appear to grow quickly on the top end and then get stuck right around 10-11psi even though engine RPM is increasing -- so I think the Reichard helped out down low but I still think I'm slipping a little up top.
Is there any way to get more belt wrap out of the A&A bracket setup?
Is there any way to get more belt wrap out of the A&A bracket setup?
Why are you chasing the belt slipping??? If your belt was slipping you would not be running lean at the top. I thought that was what this post was originally about.
So it looks like you actually have two problems.
Fuel Pressure
Belt Slipping
Andy was working on relocating the outboard idler on his bracket to wrap more belt around the blower pully. I don't know if he completed it or not. It seems that since he thinks I sold my car..that he does not call anymore.
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by Shinobi'sZ
Why are you chasing the belt slipping??? If your belt was slipping you would not be running lean at the top. I thought that was what this post was originally about.
So it looks like you actually have two problems.
Fuel Pressure
Belt Slipping
So it looks like you actually have two problems.
Fuel Pressure
Belt Slipping
Andy was working on relocating the outboard idler on his bracket to wrap more belt around the blower pully. I don't know if he completed it or not. It seems that since he thinks I sold my car..that he does not call anymore.
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Just out of curiosity, why did you run 9.5:1 compression on your stroker motor instead of a more blower friendly 8.5:1? An 8.5:1 383 would still make a good bit more power than a stock cube 10:1 compression motor, so you really don't need to be concerned with the "huge" losses you get off boost by lowering the compression, and with lower compression you would not need to fool around with Alcohol injection, you could just turn the key and go with 650 RWHP. Just my 2 cents, although it is still a very impressive car!
Cheers,
Wally Calendar
Cheers,
Wally Calendar
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by WallyC
Just out of curiosity, why did you run 9.5:1 compression on your stroker motor instead of a more blower friendly 8.5:1? An 8.5:1 383 would still make a good bit more power than a stock cube 10:1 compression motor, so you really don't need to be concerned with the "huge" losses you get off boost by lowering the compression, and with lower compression you would not need to fool around with Alcohol injection, you could just turn the key and go with 650 RWHP. Just my 2 cents, although it is still a very impressive car!
Cheers,
Wally Calendar
Cheers,
Wally Calendar
Good question. I wanted increased power throughout the band, not just on the top end. I knew I was sacrificing a little bit on the top end for more total area under the curve. I haven't seen any KR so far at the top end of this graph (even though it's leaning out, and this car was tuned in the dead heat of the Florida summer!) so I think there's probably another pound or two of boost I can throw at this thing and still be very safe (I'm running just a little north of 10psi now).
Thanks for the compliment btw
Melting Slicks
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SAE corrections are BS in FL don't know about elsewhere I have run the DA on Mikes DYNO on two ocassions one of them the DA was 650 ft which at 3.5% per 1000ft of DA should have given me apprx 2.5% but took 3% a diff of over 5% another time the DA over a period of several pulls over an hour or better ranged from 1840fit to 2115ft even on the low end it was an almost 6.5% positive adj and SAE took 2%--we have seen the same thing on the Vinci's dyno also in Orlando--so the machines may be close to sealevel but the humidity etc always creates a high DA and I can't believe there was ever a day in FL that would require a negative adj--
Melting Slicks
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From: Tx
Get the BAP on it and you should be able to make 700RWHP if you rev it to 6700 and the belt does not slip.
Sound like you got some bad advice early on in this project (42lb injectors, no BAP on a 383 running 10psi). Atleast you got the regulator and feed/return lines done up right.
Sound like you got some bad advice early on in this project (42lb injectors, no BAP on a 383 running 10psi
). Atleast you got the regulator and feed/return lines done up right.