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I am interested in this one. I have my theories and I would say it is probably not the ignition switch, but anything is possible! It more than likley something in the Theft Deterrent circuit and maybe even the Theft deterrent relay it self.
If the dealer can't fix it (Could Not Reproduce The Problem ) I have some troubleshooting ideas and recommendations. I have helped a few forum members solve this issue.
Keep us posted and let us know if you have any questions.
I am interested in this one. I have my theories and I would say it is probably not the ignition switch, but anything is possible! It more than likley something in the Theft Deterrent circuit and maybe even the Theft deterrent relay it self.
If the dealer can't fix it (Could Not Reproduce The Problem ) I have some troubleshooting ideas and recommendations. I have helped a few forum members solve this issue.
Keep us posted and let us know if you have any questions.
Good luck at the dealer.
Bill curlee
Bill, thank you too. I'll keep everyone posted. Just got back from the dealer so will see where it goes.
For those of you in South Jersey, I had it towed by Corsello's Auto Body of Turnersville, NJ and Vic was a real nice guy and took good care of my baby. Even got it on and off the flatbed with no boards perfectly - I was impressed. I will be looking him up for body work in the future.
Interesting thread!! I can't wait to hear the outcome. Keep us posted. We all hate this kind of !#@. My wifes car did the same thing and it was the ignition switch. $300 but warranty took care of it.
Interesting thread!! I can't wait to hear the outcome. Keep us posted. We all hate this kind of !#@. My wifes car did the same thing and it was the ignition switch. $300 but warranty took care of it.
Yeah I see a battle raging with my extended warranty company. Everyone has suggested the ignition switch but the dealer said it was something else related to the ignition - I can't remeber off hand - I was real busy at work when they called me. Will check in with them 1st thing in the morning for a recap. May have them replace the ignition switch too since it seems to be the popular response and I don't want to have to go thru this again.
To those interested in the saga.... The dealer said that the problem appears to be the ignition lock cylinder, thus they are replacing that. As I have posted on another thread my ext. warranty through America's Choice Plus Program is telling me that this is not covered (go figure) and the dealer wants to charge me $390 plus tax for parts and labor. Anybody deal with this before?
negotiate the parts price and find out how much labor they are charging you for. I paid for 1.5 hours of labor (book time).
I paid $75.90 for parts and $97.50 labor... total $178.72.
The difference between yours and mine is that I took mine to the dealer and told them what to do, you took yours and let them diagnose it... so they think you dont know what you are talking about.
I am interested in this one. I have my theories and I would say it is probably not the ignition switch, but anything is possible! It more than likley something in the Theft Deterrent circuit and maybe even the Theft deterrent relay it self.
inside the tumbler there are contacts that make the theft deterrent circuit read the value on the VATS key. Over time, the motion of turning the switch wears out and eventually breaks the tiny wires that are connected to the contacts in the switch.
Is there anyone out there that works for a Chevy Service Center at a Dealer? I'm confused (and have them sending me an estimate).
To diagnose the problem they are charging me a flat $90 (which unfortunately I agreed to) this would be charged regardless of anything being fixed. They are telling me that the part is around $113, which is close to what Brain told me it listed for ($103), on top of that I am looking at 2 hours of labor to install (again Brian suggested 1.5 hours). What is their labor rate? They are telling me it will come to a total of $390 +tax, when Bryans totalled $178. I was under the impression that the $90 to diagnose the problem would then be taken out of the labor because logic tells me that to diagnose the problem half the labor has been performed. Am I nuts (maybe thats already assumed considering I brought it to a dealer)?
I know it took right at an hour when mine was done, but I paid the 'book time' for it at $65/hr.
There have been a handfull of people that I have helped out on this problem and none of them have got off as cheap as I did... but I think yours is the highest I can remember.
I know it took right at an hour when mine was done, but I paid the 'book time' for it at $65/hr.
There have been a handfull of people that I have helped out on this problem and none of them have got off as cheap as I did... but I think yours is the highest I can remember.
When you say book time is that pre-mark up? At $65 I am assuming that there is some labor multiplier attached to that figure.
Now they faxed me a hand-written (chicken scratch) note that says:
Diag. and labor to install and code lock cylinder = $273
Part = $103.39
Total = $376.39
WTF? Subtract out the $90 (diagnosis I was told) and you get $183 in labor...is that realistic after being charged $90 to tear it apart?
'book time' is the amount of time that it should take to fix the problem.
The tech's get paid according to this book. If the book says 1.5 hours to fix the problem... the mechanic gets paid for 1.5 hours whether it takes 1 hour or 2 hours.
My own personal opinion is that this is where part of the problem lies in GM service. A tech gets paid a flat amount for doing a job, but the faster he whips through the job then he can move onto the next job. Guys I worked with would work a legit 8 hour day, but get paid for 12 hours if they rushed to get jobs done.
'book time' is the amount of time that it should take to fix the problem.
The tech's get paid according to this book. If the book says 1.5 hours to fix the problem... the mechanic gets paid for 1.5 hours whether it takes 1 hour or 2 hours.
My own personal opinion is that this is where part of the problem lies in GM service. A tech gets paid a flat amount for doing a job, but the faster he whips through the job then he can move onto the next job. Guys I worked with would work a legit 8 hour day, but get paid for 12 hours if they rushed to get jobs done.
Unbelievable - aside from cost what worries me more is the incentive to "rush jobs" and what kind of quality I am getting. Between the 3 -ring circus of dealing with the dealer, and warranty company I think I am going to have just accept that fact that I am probably going to get screwed at some level.
I called another dealer and described the problem. They said they didn't think that was a very common problem and that its the starter, but that can't be based on the resposes here on CF. When I aksed him how mch it would cost to fix this identical problem he said probably around $400 so it looks as though another Chevy dealer would be in the same ballpark.
I will be heeding other advice on here as to never bring my car to a dealer again.
Just got a call from the dealer - its finished. Car is starting fine. Still looking at same price but I'll see what I can do. Unfortunately I am not in the stick, but it sprawling suburbia. Not only is it a Chevy dealer - next door is BMW, so you can guess at what I am dealing with.
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