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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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Default Need wet sanding help

My tag plate in front has two large gouges in it so I bought a replacement. After reading everywhere, I thought I'd try painting it and wet sanding it myself.

Well, I gotta tell you, this ain't as easy as it sounds.

I've primered it and painted it with a spray can of GM touchup paint. Tonight makes the third time. I just cannot get it shiny enough. I put it next to the finish of the car and it looks ten years older. But it's not because I'm not polishing it enough, I've polished clear through to the primer three times now and I just can't get a really nice deep shine to it.

Anyone have any suggestions?
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:41 PM
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Not trying to be a smart azz but you didn't mention a clear coat. Wet sanding will remove all the orange peel and make it smooth, but only a good coat of clear will make it shine like the rest of the car.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:42 PM
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Wet sanding is only part of the process. You will need to use some kind of polishing compound after you wet sand. Also what grit are you using? Should be 1k or higher.

Another item..I am not positive but I do believe you do not wet sand a single stage paint like you are using. You need to use a base coat/clear coat process and wet sand and buff the clear coat.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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Well, the paint needs to be dry and usually, but not always, now days you are wet sanding the clear coat you put on over the base coat. After wet sanding you usually will need to buff it with very mild polishing compound (the mildest if you are using a power buffer and a tad more "Grit" if doing it by hand.) You don't get the shine just by wetsanding even with 1600 paper. Go to your local auto paints products store and they will have everything you need and the advise is usually freely given and very helpful ... at least that's my experience. Above all else ... patience is the virtue you need on any body work.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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What grit sand paper are you using? Are you polishing it with a liquid polish afterward? How about a clearcoat?
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark 84ltblu
Not trying to be a smart azz but you didn't mention a clear coat. Wet sanding will remove all the orange peel and make it smooth, but only a good coat of clear will make it shine like the rest of the car.
That's not being a smart azz at all Mark. I didn't even think about a clear coat. Duh!

Thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by EatRice
Wet sanding is only part of the process. You will need to use some kind of polishing compound after you wet sand. Also what grit are you using? Should be 1k or higher.

Another item..I am not positive but I do believe you do not wet sand a single stage paint like you are using. You need to use a base coat/clear coat process and wet sand and buff the clear coat.
I started with 1k and went up to 1500 and then used polishing compound to get the swirls and scratches out. That worked fine but I just couldn't get the gloss I wanted. It looks old and faded next to the finish on my car.

But why wouldn't you wet sand a single stage paint?
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
What grit sand paper are you using? Are you polishing it with a liquid polish afterward? How about a clearcoat?
1k - 1500 grit sandpaper and then polishing compound with an orbital buffer. No clearcoat though. That may be the fly in the ointment.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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Once you use clearcoat, 10,000-grit NicSand works wonders.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 10:04 PM
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im no expert but you cant buff out base coat paint! as others have suggested, go ahead and get a can of clear as well. sand back down, apply your base coat, then apply clear. allow to dry. take at least 1000grit and sand down the CLEAR, but only the clear. it will look dull and horrible. then use a rubbing compound to bring it back to life. rubbing compound makes a big difference also. try some 3M.

good luck! and no... painting is def. not all that easy!
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 KIDD

good luck! and no... painting is def. not all that easy!
The painting isn't hard IT'S the "looking good" that's the hard part You're dealing with texture, metallics, shine...so many variables That's why we pay Good Guys $$$$$ to have a GOOD job Imagine how difficult a whole car is
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 11:16 PM
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Try getting hold of Mark MyBlueC5. Trust me you wont be sorry
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Knowme
Try getting hold of Mark MyBlueC5. Trust me you wont be sorry

Thanks Nouman but I already offered to paint it for him... he just wanted to be stubborn...

I figure after 3 or 4 coats of spray bomb crap and the paint is so thick, it chips off when a bug hits it, it doesn't match and has no shine, he'll give up and send it to me.

I even offered to do it for free.

He'll call.... eventually.

Mark
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MyBlueC5
Thanks Nouman but I already offered to paint it for him... he just wanted to be stubborn...

I figure after 3 or 4 coats of spray bomb crap and the paint is so thick, it chips off when a bug hits it, it doesn't match and has no shine, he'll give up and send it to me.

I even offered to do it for free.

He'll call.... eventually.

Mark

hey sometimes its fun just to try things on your own!! but i def. see how painting could get frustrating pretty quick!
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MyBlueC5
Thanks Nouman but I already offered to paint it for him... he just wanted to be stubborn...

I figure after 3 or 4 coats of spray bomb crap and the paint is so thick, it chips off when a bug hits it, it doesn't match and has no shine, he'll give up and send it to me.

I even offered to do it for free.

He'll call.... eventually.

Mark
LOL! Probably so Mark, probably so.

But heck, you gotta learn. I've got some other pieces I want to paint too but they're expensive and I want to figure out how to do it myself.

But I may eventually decide, screw it! Maaaaarrrrrk Heeeelllllpppp!
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Jackalope

I admire your tenacity in trying to do this yourself instead of taking up bluec5's kind offer.
I will give you the benefit of my hard-headed but well learned experience.

Strip off old paint.
Prime with Ditzler high dollar gray primer.
Spray with base coat (Ditzler paint)
Spray 2 coats of clear. (Ditzler paint)
Wait at least 24 hours.
Wet sand with 1200 grit wet/dry. Do it till the surface feels like glass and looks hazy. This is perfect.
Buff with orbital (not random orbital) polisher using 3m Perfect -it III rubbing compound (product 05933) with wool pad.
Buff with 3m Perfect -it III machine glaze (05937) using grey foam pad.
Finish will be perfect and will look better than the rest of the car.
You can do this to your whole car and it will be awesome.
It will cost you about 200 bucks to do your little plate in cost of products, but you will then know how to do an entire car.
I learned all of this painting my old Bronco. The ridiculous quantity of sheet metal on that beast gives you plenty of time to learn to be a pro at this.
This works.
Glad to help any further.
Still, very nice offer by Bluec5, but I understand.

g
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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Forgot to say "sand the primer smooth with 240, then 400, then 600 grit wet/dry paper. Do it wet!"

g
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
LOL! Probably so Mark, probably so.

But heck, you gotta learn. I've got some other pieces I want to paint too but they're expensive and I want to figure out how to do it myself.

But I may eventually decide, screw it! Maaaaarrrrrk Heeeelllllpppp!

Jack,

You know I was only teasin'. The offer is still there but half the fun in modifying is doing it yourself. If you get to the point that you get frustrated, I'm still here.

Very Soon offered some excellent advice however I wouldn't go anything coarser than 320 to sand primer since you won't be using a DA and will be doing it by hand. (since the license plate piece is very small)

Have a great night, send us some pics.

Mark
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by VERYSOON
Jackalope

I admire your tenacity in trying to do this yourself instead of taking up bluec5's kind offer.
I will give you the benefit of my hard-headed but well learned experience.

Strip off old paint.
Prime with Ditzler high dollar gray primer.
Spray with base coat (Ditzler paint)
Spray 2 coats of clear. (Ditzler paint)
Wait at least 24 hours.
Wet sand with 1200 grit wet/dry. Do it till the surface feels like glass and looks hazy. This is perfect.
Buff with orbital (not random orbital) polisher using 3m Perfect -it III rubbing compound (product 05933) with wool pad.
Buff with 3m Perfect -it III machine glaze (05937) using grey foam pad.
Finish will be perfect and will look better than the rest of the car.
You can do this to your whole car and it will be awesome.
It will cost you about 200 bucks to do your little plate in cost of products, but you will then know how to do an entire car.
I learned all of this painting my old Bronco. The ridiculous quantity of sheet metal on that beast gives you plenty of time to learn to be a pro at this.
This works.
Glad to help any further.
Still, very nice offer by Bluec5, but I understand.

g
Great advice. How do I strio off the old paint? Any kind of paint stripper that I know of will melt the plastic.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 12:17 PM
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STAY AWAY FROM STRIPPER ON PLASTIC. Sand it off with 320 as long as you are going to prime it again...which I would. But if the paint is sticking to the piece you do not need to remove it completely. I would knock it down with 320 so it is even all across. Then reprime it and follow the steps. As long as the paint underneath has good adhesion you are ok. If it is chipping or pealing you need to go all the way down to the base.
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