Jacking Details
I installed my CAGs today. Everything went very well but I have one issue. My jack has a range of 5 1/4" to 15 " with a 2 1/4 ton capacity. Because of the 5 1/4 " start I have to drive up on home made ramps - no big deal. But to get the 2x4 wood block to protect the aluminum cross members I have to build higher ramps - again ok but...
Then I have my home made two puck jack stand holders. They work well but now I have to jack the front or back so high to get the jack stands to fit under the two pucks. I am worried as the jack is at maximum extension.
Do I get a bigger better jack or what. Advice appreciated!
For instance...when I change my oil I put a couple of short 2x4s in front on my grey Rhino ramps and drive right on up. I lay a small 2x4 on my jack's riser and there's enough clearance to get it under the rear cross member to raise the back of the car. I then put my jack stands out near the end of the cross member but NOT on the rear control arms or any moving part of the suspension. I do not put jack stands under my pucks to change the oil.
If I have to pull a wheel off I put the jack directly under the puck and raise that corner and slip a jack under the cross member. I don't use a 2x4 between the jack and the puck since I have a built in pad on the jacks riser.
Another benefit of these jacks is that it only takes about four pumps of the handle to get the car high enough to put stands under it.
ps...you already had CAGs...you installed a CAGs defeat
Last edited by Cajun99; Jul 19, 2005 at 09:29 AM.
I put a dish rag folded over 4 times or so to keep from marring the x-member, but it's plenty strong enough.
Just my input. I've lifted the car more times than I can count with no issues. [shrug]
So I just drive up on some boards in the front, and jack away.
Car's sitting on 4 jackstands right now, which brings up another interesting question...
Where's the best place to put jackstands?
The fronts go all the way on the outside at the corner, the rears I actually put them on the outer side that runs parallel to the car (it curves upward a bit).
This has always works well for me, and the car seems very stable. I've had it up for weeks like this with no issues.
I don't like putting on stands at the puck areas because it's sitting ON the stands. For the cross member, it's sitting IN the top of the stands (the tops of my stands are U shaped).
I think that makes a lot of sense particularily I like the idea of the member sitting into the jackstand. Do you use anything to protect the crossmembers from the u shape steel stand?
This prevents marring, but the rag compresses enough and it is very stable. It also allows for a little settling if I don't get the cross-member piece centered exactly over the stand (allows for a little sliding/play when it settles without scraping the frame or stand).
Hope this helps,
Jon


I installed my CAGs today. Everything went very well but I have one issue. My jack has a range of 5 1/4" to 15 " with a 2 1/4 ton capacity. Because of the 5 1/4 " start I have to drive up on home made ramps - no big deal. But to get the 2x4 wood block to protect the aluminum cross members I have to build higher ramps - again ok but...
Then I have my home made two puck jack stand holders. They work well but now I have to jack the front or back so high to get the jack stands to fit under the two pucks. I am worried as the jack is at maximum extension.
Do I get a bigger better jack or what. Advice appreciated!

It is very easy to put the car up on stands (on the pucks) with this jack. All you have to do is raise the front at the crossmember, slide ramps under the front tires, then raise the rear at the crossmember high enough to slide jack stands under the rear pucks and then go back to the front and raise higher to get the jack stands under the front pucks and then slide out the ramps from under the front tires. This way you don't have the car up too high at either end at anytime during the process.

AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ
Last edited by Target Chaser; Jul 19, 2005 at 04:17 PM.
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