Another CLB horror story!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 3
From: Lost in the Pine Barrens with only ketchup and relish packs, New Jersey
Another CLB horror story!
Well maybe not HORROR, but definately a PITA! I knew all about the CLB issue from this forum and even took the car to the dealer a while ago to have the recall work done, the problem is I procrastinated about the CLB and never got one.
So you know what comes next: Yep that's me, the guy pushing his Corvette down the road trying to push start (MN6) it after I got the "pull key wait 10 sec..." message. Luckily there was a kind gentleman willing to help me push the car and plenty of space!
As soon as I got in the office, I went and ordered a CLB! Now just to make me feel better, this will solve the problem right? (Plenty of juice, turn key and nothing but a click- after plenty of tries- "pull key wait 10 sec..."
Thanks
So you know what comes next: Yep that's me, the guy pushing his Corvette down the road trying to push start (MN6) it after I got the "pull key wait 10 sec..." message. Luckily there was a kind gentleman willing to help me push the car and plenty of space!
As soon as I got in the office, I went and ordered a CLB! Now just to make me feel better, this will solve the problem right? (Plenty of juice, turn key and nothing but a click- after plenty of tries- "pull key wait 10 sec..."
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
From: arlington tx
guys correct me if im wrong but the pull key wait 10 seconds message is related to the column lock but not related to not starting....i think it does start, its just that it will die if you try to drive about a foot or so....thats what ive always heard anyway so push starting if this is correct wont do anything except get good exercise and **** u off. sounds to me like another problem.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You have me confused. The pull key wait 10 sec, column lock and not cranking are all "SOMEWHAT" different issues. The pull key wait 10 sec, means that the little silver contacts in the ignition switch did not properly read the resistor pellet on your key.
I know for a fact that on my 98 coupe if I got that message and didn't pay attention to it, the car would crank and start but, as soon as you tried to move the car, it wold stall.
The column lock problem means just that. When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it on. the dead bolt inside the steering column does NOT retract and you can NOT turn the steering wheel!!!
If you have the GM Column Lock recall done, and the column locks, The PCM SHUTS OFF THE FUEL and the car will not start or run!
Get the CLB and that will fix that issue!
Sooooo, did your steering wheel LOCK UP?????
BC
I know for a fact that on my 98 coupe if I got that message and didn't pay attention to it, the car would crank and start but, as soon as you tried to move the car, it wold stall.
The column lock problem means just that. When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it on. the dead bolt inside the steering column does NOT retract and you can NOT turn the steering wheel!!!
If you have the GM Column Lock recall done, and the column locks, The PCM SHUTS OFF THE FUEL and the car will not start or run!
Get the CLB and that will fix that issue!
Sooooo, did your steering wheel LOCK UP?????
BC
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 35,617
Likes: 167
Tech Contributor
Cruise-In 11 Veteran
NCM Ambassador
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'10
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You have me confused. The pull key wait 10 sec, column lock and not cranking are all "SOMEWHAT" different issues. The pull key wait 10 sec, means that the little silver contacts in the ignition switch did not properly read the resistor pellet on your key.
I know for a fact that on my 98 coupe if I got that message and didn't pay attention to it, the car would crank and start but, as soon as you tried to move the car, it wold stall.
The column lock problem means just that. When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it on. the dead bolt inside the steering column does NOT retract and you can NOT turn the steering wheel!!!
If you have the GM Column Lock recall done, and the column locks, The PCM SHUTS OFF THE FUEL and the car will not start or run!
Get the CLB and that will fix that issue!
Sooooo, did your steering wheel LOCK UP?????
BC
I know for a fact that on my 98 coupe if I got that message and didn't pay attention to it, the car would crank and start but, as soon as you tried to move the car, it wold stall.
The column lock problem means just that. When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it on. the dead bolt inside the steering column does NOT retract and you can NOT turn the steering wheel!!!
If you have the GM Column Lock recall done, and the column locks, The PCM SHUTS OFF THE FUEL and the car will not start or run!
Get the CLB and that will fix that issue!
Sooooo, did your steering wheel LOCK UP?????
BC
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 947
Likes: 0
From: MS
Had the problem last week. Car should start but fuel supply is shut off once car gets to 1.5 mph. I had done both measures - dealer recall and the CLB. Disconnect the battery, wait 30 min. to allow the system to reset and then start again. Worked for me.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Pull key and wait 10 sec can be related to a low power situation. Which would make sense if you only hear a clicking sound. Which usually means your battery has gone south and there's not enough power to pull in the starter solenoid. Check it with a volt meter and if it's below 11.75 volts it's probably toast. Or take it to a battery place and have them do a load test. Dollar to a doughnut that's your problem. Keep us posted. 
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 3
From: Lost in the Pine Barrens with only ketchup and relish packs, New Jersey
Come to think of it, I do remember before I had the recall work done, the car would start and then die. This may not be the CLB and could be the battery. This happened to me last week and when I took it into the dealer, they could not find anything. The guy said that they tested the starter, battery and some electrical things (no lie, thats what the guy said) I took the car home and it took a week to happen again. I have about 75,000 on the car and I bought it at 36,000. I wonder if my IPOD AirPlay charger is draining the battery, I always unplug it when I stop the car??? I may go to Sears and get a new battery today just to be safe...
Oh and to answer a previous question, NO the steering wheel did not lock up. I know I have a MN6, but the first time I took the car into the dealer for the recall, they actually did the wrong recall and removed the locking plate... The second time I took it in they did the recall for a MN6 (I forget exactly what that is) and left out the locking plate...
Oh and to answer a previous question, NO the steering wheel did not lock up. I know I have a MN6, but the first time I took the car into the dealer for the recall, they actually did the wrong recall and removed the locking plate... The second time I took it in they did the recall for a MN6 (I forget exactly what that is) and left out the locking plate...
Last edited by 99magredcoupe; Feb 7, 2006 at 08:29 AM.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
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From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
This seems starange.
My first stop would be to check the battery. there are all sorts of weird symptoms when batteries die although I'd not heard the pull key ...before.
If it's still your original AC Delco, with a 99 Vette you're on borrowed time already IMHO.
My first stop would be to check the battery. there are all sorts of weird symptoms when batteries die although I'd not heard the pull key ...before.
If it's still your original AC Delco, with a 99 Vette you're on borrowed time already IMHO.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,806
Likes: 70
From: Rochester MN
Originally Posted by Stock Man
Pull key and wait 10 sec can be related to a low power situation. Which would make sense if you only hear a clicking sound. Which usually means your battery has gone south and there's not enough power to pull in the starter solenoid. Check it with a volt meter and if it's below 11.75 volts it's probably toast. Or take it to a battery place and have them do a load test. Dollar to a doughnut that's your problem. Keep us posted.
I got this message when my battery was low.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 3
From: Lost in the Pine Barrens with only ketchup and relish packs, New Jersey
How many miles should an original battery last? How can I tell if the previous owner changed out the battery? I think it would be unlikely that they would put in a new battery before 36000 miles...
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,806
Likes: 70
From: Rochester MN
Originally Posted by 99magredcoupe
How many miles should an original battery last? How can I tell if the previous owner changed out the battery? I think it would be unlikely that they would put in a new battery before 36000 miles...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 3
From: Lost in the Pine Barrens with only ketchup and relish packs, New Jersey
Alright, since I work in IT I do have some toys laying around the office here and I just happen to have found a "FLUKE 110 True RMS Multimeter". I have never used it before and it has a few settings with a V which I hope stands for voltage. One is for AC and the other is for DC. I am going to guess here and say that I want the one for DC and I would just hold the tester ends to each terminal of the battery and see what the number comes up as??? (please don't confuse me for a union electrician! ha ha)
Pro
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 526
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From: Tampa fl
Originally Posted by 99magredcoupe
Alright, since I work in IT I do have some toys laying around the office here and I just happen to have found a "FLUKE 110 True RMS Multimeter". I have never used it before and it has a few settings with a V which I hope stands for voltage. One is for AC and the other is for DC. I am going to guess here and say that I want the one for DC and I would just hold the tester ends to each terminal of the battery and see what the number comes up as??? (please don't confuse me for a union electrician! ha ha)
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 19,459
Likes: 48
From: Schaumburg IL
CI 7-8-9-11 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by lawless99
Or you could turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and read the battery voltage on the DIC, it should match your fluke reading. Once you crank the engine the DIC will display the voltage output of the alternator.
what he saidsounds like your battery is toasted
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 3
From: Lost in the Pine Barrens with only ketchup and relish packs, New Jersey
Originally Posted by lawless99
Or you could turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and read the battery voltage on the DIC, it should match your fluke reading. Once you crank the engine the DIC will display the voltage output of the alternator.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
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From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by 99magredcoupe
I have never used it before and it has a few settings with a V which I hope stands for voltage. One is for AC and the other is for DC. I am going to guess here and say that I want the one for DC and I would just hold the tester ends to each terminal of the battery and see what the number comes up as???
