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Need Some Ramp Ideas

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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rwsr50
Now we're making progress! Without seeing the lift you are trying to get it on, it's tuff to picture what you are trying to accomplish. Seems like four short ones, one for each wheel and built like theadmiral's, would do the trick and be a lot cheaper, lighter, more portable, and easier to manipulate than 12 foot long ones, unless you have a part of the lift you have to clear and get over before the car is in position.

Unfortunately 4 short ones wouldnt work. The midrise lift is 5 feet wide and 7 feet long. The car needs to ascend 4.5" above the lift's frame when the frame is collapsed. The 3" boards along with the 2" car height (the front rubber damn is about 2" off the ground) gives me the clearance.

Here is a pic of the lift when it is open and collapsed. This will give you a better idea. Sorry I wasnt clear from the begining

http://www.challengerlifts.com/pdf/C...ure_Master.pdf
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #22  
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I think the best idea so far is to stack 2 2 X 12's and drill/bore holes to make them lighter. You could use a hole saw and make the holes as large as needed and stager them so they do not line up with each other?
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:37 PM
  #23  
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Here is what I use 4 seperate planks (3.5" Hx6"Wx24"L)

Pics







I Jack each wheel up seperately from underneath (even lowered, my jack still can get under the rocker savers (3"s), place the planks under each wheel then if that heights is not enough your can easily now get the Jack and support board under the crossmembers for a higher profile

Or if you look at the 4 th pic I use 2 3.5"X3.5" planks underneath the wider plank , in case jackstands are not desired, I feel this to be the safest way..

Last edited by Pizzano; Mar 28, 2006 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:43 PM
  #24  
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I too would just stack two 2 x 12's and bevel and step the approach ends. I'd position them and possibly even anchor them to the floor so that you can just easily drive up and over the lift and even park there routinely even when you aren't planning on lifting it. That way you aren't dragging the "ramps" in and out and having to find a place to store them and the lift.

If they become "permanent", like I described, I also wouldn't worry about making swiss cheese out of them. That is an excellent idea, but why waste the time and energy if you aren't going to have to be moving them around.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Pizzano
Here is what I use 4 seperate planks (3.5" Hx6"Wx24"L)

Pics







I Jack each wheel up seperately from underneath (even lowered, my jack still can get under the rocker savers (3"s), place the planks under each wheel then if that heights is not enough your can easily now get the Jack and support board under the crossmembers for a higher profile

Or if you look at the 4 th pic I use 2 3.5"X3.5" planks underneath the wider plank , in case jackstands are not desired, I feel this to be the safest way..
Maybe its me but I dont see how this will work for the picture in the link in post #21.

Last edited by GR8-LIFE; Mar 28, 2006 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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OK Mark Ive got what you need

3" 12 1177 6855T1 16.10 6855T2 12.88

3in high, 9and1/2 inches wide by 12ft long ,12 gage galv. steel 1177 per foot load rate you only need 900 lb load rate

16 dollars a foot.

www.mcmaster-carr.com
page 1954


Last edited by Evil-Twin; Mar 28, 2006 at 01:58 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
OK Mark Ive got what you need

3" 12 1177 6855T1 16.10 6855T2 12.88

3in high, 9and1/2 inches wide by 12ft long ,12 gage galv. steel 1177 per foot load rate you only need 900 lb load rate

16 dollars a foot.

www.mcmaster-carr.com
page 1954
how did ya find that place?
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
how did ya find that place?
Mark, as a prototype engineer for GM, you would be surprised at how many prototype designs I've started with McM-Carr components. I have been dealing with them for many years....

I am sure you will find what you need there...
Good Luck and keep me posted, and If I can be of any further help I'M just a PM away/
Bill aka ET
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Mark, as a prototype engineer for GM, you would be surprised at how many prototype designs I've started with McM-Carr components. I have been dealing with them for many years....

I am sure you will find what you need there...
Good Luck and keep me posted, and If I can be of any further help I'M just a PM away/
Bill aka ET
Thanks Bill!
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #30  
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Great pic, Au N Egl! Nice option!
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:52 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
Maybe its me but I dont see how this will for the picture in the link in post #21.
Just letting you know what I use with success and no $$$$ involved, and it doesn't take up any room in the garage.

If you want a lift check out Kwik Lift
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 03:05 PM
  #32  
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Build two boxes hollow on the underside out of 1/2" plywood and 2/3's just like mini floors that would be in a house. 2X3's around the perimeter with 2X3's crosswise every 1ft. Then sheet the top with 1/2" plywood. Make it just barely over the width of your wheels so the long 2X3's will take up most of the pressure. Instead of 2 ramps make 4 shorter ones that will butt together, they will be easier to lift and store away.

Last edited by dndrsn; Mar 28, 2006 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dndrsn
Build two boxes hollow on the underside out of 1/2" plywood and 2/3's just like mini floors that would be in a house. 2X3's around the perimeter with 2X3's crosswise every 1ft. Then sheet the top with 1/2" plywood. Make it just barely over the width of your wheels so the long 2X3's will take up most of the pressure. Instead of 2 ramps make 4 shorter ones that will butt together, they will be easier to lift and store away.
so each 12 foot ramp would have 3 2X3's 12 foot long and a half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood...for each ramp
this would weigh 3 times what the extrusion would weigh ( much cheaper I admit ) but his criteria was light weight.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:13 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Mark, as a prototype engineer for GM, you would be surprised at how many prototype designs I've started with McM-Carr components. I have been dealing with them for many years....

I am sure you will find what you need there...
Good Luck and keep me posted, and If I can be of any further help I'M just a PM away/
Bill aka ET
As I've heard said before,
"If McMaster-Carr doesn't have it, you don't need it."

And, unlike some of the other industrial suppliers, M-C doesn't require any tax-exemption documents or any of that
They sell to anybody.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
Here is a pic of the lift when it is open and collapsed. This will give you a better idea. Sorry I wasnt clear from the begining

http://www.challengerlifts.com/pdf/C...ure_Master.pdf
I'm curious, why do you want to be able to move them?

My plan, if we build again or build an additional shop out back will be to provide a drop in the concrete slab such that I can set the lift in the recess and even cover it with a metal grate if I needed to.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:40 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 74-Roadster
I'm curious, why do you want to be able to move them?

My plan, if we build again or build an additional shop out back will be to provide a drop in the concrete slab such that I can set the lift in the recess and even cover it with a metal grate if I needed to.
I would love to recess the garage floor somehow but I'm just not prepared to get into all of that.

I'd rather that the boards not stay on the floor. I'm going with a floating floor in the future, perhaps race deck or something like it, and permanent board placement will be unsightly.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:46 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
so each 12 foot ramp would have 3 2X3's 12 foot long and a half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood...for each ramp
this would weigh 3 times what the extrusion would weigh ( much cheaper I admit ) but his criteria was light weight.
Thats why I said to make it four pieces. One piece would be one 6ftX1ftX1/2" plywood plus two 6ft 2X3's, plus 7 2X3's 9"long. I don't know how much that would weigh but it's easier to lift and handle four shorter things rather than 2 long ones.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 05:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
I would love to recess the garage floor somehow but I'm just not prepared to get into all of that.

I'd rather that the boards not stay on the floor. I'm going with a floating floor in the future, perhaps race deck or something like it, and permanent board placement will be unsightly.
I fully understand. I do everything in my garage, grinding, cutting, welding, sanding and painting, but I still want a show garage too.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 05:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
so each 12 foot ramp would have 3 2X3's 12 foot long and a half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood...for each ramp
this would weigh 3 times what the extrusion would weigh ( much cheaper I admit ) but his criteria was light weight.
Yep, at this point though I personally would be weighing (pun intended) cost against weight. Bill's solution is top shelf no doubt, and does meet the required criteria...but 24 feet x $16 a foot = $384 (pretty expensive as even Bill acknowledges). You could buy a whole lot of 2x's for that amount.

Last edited by rwsr50; Mar 28, 2006 at 05:07 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:22 PM
  #40  
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I know my answer dosn't fit the customers requirements; however, I'd have my garage floor dug out and place the lift down the 3" and then just drive on/over it @ floor level???


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