Need Some Ramp Ideas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Fishin' Pole FL
I thought about that till I saw that he lives in So. Florida. Our garage floors here are steel reinforced concrete and may have water and drain lines underneath. Somewhat of an undertaking to cut out a 7ft X 4ft hole in your garage floor. Also concerning the weight issue, the steel ramps would weigh close to 100lbs. each and the wooden ones built at 6 ft would weight about 25lbs each.
Last edited by dndrsn; Mar 28, 2006 at 07:33 PM.
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Originally Posted by rwsr50
Yep, at this point though I personally would be weighing (pun intended) cost against weight. Bill's solution is top shelf no doubt, and does meet the required criteria...but 24 feet x $16 a foot = $384 (pretty expensive as even Bill acknowledges). You could buy a whole lot of 2x's for that amount.
Suddenly those 12' by 2"s are looking better. Crap!!! Well, I have time to figure things out. Between the great ideas from all you guys I'll come up with a solution.
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Originally Posted by mhdi22
I know my answer dosn't fit the customers requirements; however, I'd have my garage floor dug out and place the lift down the 3" and then just drive on/over it @ floor level???
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From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
I agree. When I added up the $$$ I was like Suddenly those 12' by 2"s are looking better. Crap!!! Well, I have time to figure things out. Between the great ideas from all you guys I'll come up with a solution.
Suddenly those 12' by 2"s are looking better. Crap!!! Well, I have time to figure things out. Between the great ideas from all you guys I'll come up with a solution.
I thought they had to be 3 inches minimum...You initiially where looking at even titiainum.,... so I figured I would spend my time helping you knowing that cost did not seem to be an issue...
why not hit the Throw a way bin at Home depot...
and piece a few boards together...
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From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Originally Posted by dndrsn
I thought about that till I saw that he lives in So. Florida. Our garage floors here are steel reinforced concrete and may have water and drain lines underneath. Somewhat of an undertaking to cut out a 7ft X 4ft hole in your garage floor. Also concerning the weight issue, the steel ramps would weigh close to 100lbs. each and the wooden ones built at 6 ft would weight about 25lbs each.
I was under the impression that this guy had his sh|t together...by his opening thread and his very tight demands..his reference to titianium cost was no object.
[quote=MARK's_C5TT]
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Mar 28, 2006 at 10:44 PM.
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Now its 12 X 2's, and you dont care about weight I thought they had to be 3 inches minimum...
You initiially where looking at even titiainum.,... so I figured I would spend my time helping you knowing that cost did not seem to be an issue...
why not hit the Throw a way bin at Home depot...
and piece a few boards together...
I thought they had to be 3 inches minimum...You initiially where looking at even titiainum.,... so I figured I would spend my time helping you knowing that cost did not seem to be an issue...
why not hit the Throw a way bin at Home depot...
and piece a few boards together...
With respect to cost, well, sure , there is always going to be a ceiling at some point. I mean I could buy a kwik lift and put the mid-rise lift in the middle. But I'm not going to spend $1100 for a kwik lift to achieve my ojective.
Many times i have started off with a plan only to discover that the easier solution is also much more costly than anticipated. It comes down to a compromise. Thats why I'm trying to brainstorm as much as I can.
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
the steel at 12 gage is less than a pound a foot making each 12 foot ramp about 11 pounds. he could buy two six foot sections at $12.88 a ft. if he was willing to use two on each side, and they would weigh less than six pounds each.....
I was under the impression that this guy had his **** together...by his opening thread and his very tight demands..
I was under the impression that this guy had his **** together...by his opening thread and his very tight demands..
Last edited by GR8-LIFE; Mar 28, 2006 at 10:45 PM.
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From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Mark, I am alittle pissy by nature, but I also like a challenge...I spent the time, did the calculations and hit all of your demands...found you exactly what you needed , posted pictures gave you prices and specs... in an extremely timely manner
Had you said you only wanted to spend 50 bucks, I would not have wasted my time....
Can you honestly blame me????
I do accept your apology, and will be right back to help you if you need me... that's also a part of my nature.
Had you said you only wanted to spend 50 bucks, I would not have wasted my time....
Can you honestly blame me????
I do accept your apology, and will be right back to help you if you need me... that's also a part of my nature.
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From: Winchester TN
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'11
Originally Posted by MARK's_C5TT
They have to be able to support the car to get it over the lift.
Are you talking about a two-post service lift?
I use my jack and either a lifting puck or a small block of wood on the bare lifting arm of my jack, I lift one side of the car up, swing the rear arm under, then go to the other side and swing both of those arms under, then remove the floor jack and swing in the remaining arm.....
I only have to do this for lowered C5's.
Your board requirements are not achievable IMO. Any wood that is strong enough will not be light (i.e. hardwoods or compressed treated lumber) and in standard nominal sizes, you will not get the 3" without custom work.
good luck though - I hate it when they just don't have what I need...
best regards -
mqqn
best regards -
mqqn
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Mark, I am alittle pissy by nature, but I also like a challenge...I spent the time, did the calculations and hit all of your demands...found you exactly what you needed , posted pictures gave you prices and specs... in an extremely timely manner
Had you said you only wanted to spend 50 bucks, I would not have wasted my time....
Can you honestly blame me????
I do accept your apology, and will be right back to help you if you need me... that's also a part of my nature.
Had you said you only wanted to spend 50 bucks, I would not have wasted my time....
Can you honestly blame me????
I do accept your apology, and will be right back to help you if you need me... that's also a part of my nature.
As for my numbers, I have repeatedly done my measurements and have even allowed some lattitude. For instance, 2.5 inches of height might do the trick but 3" will do it for sure.
I can tell you that i have to often painfully discovered the consequences as a result of bad specs and design. Thats why I'm taking my time with this.
And again, I'm sorry about any misdirection from inconsistent posting or from the omission of some of my numbers or not revealing acceptable compromises bewteen price and solution
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Originally Posted by mqqn
Hi MARK's_C5TT -
Are you talking about a two-post service lift?
I use my jack and either a lifting puck or a small block of wood on the bare lifting arm of my jack, I lift one side of the car up, swing the rear arm under, then go to the other side and swing both of those arms under, then remove the floor jack and swing in the remaining arm.....
I only have to do this for lowered C5's.
Your board requirements are not achievable IMO. Any wood that is strong enough will not be light (i.e. hardwoods or compressed treated lumber) and in standard nominal sizes, you will not get the 3" without custom work.
good luck though - I hate it when they just don't have what I need...
best regards -
mqqn
best regards -
mqqn
Are you talking about a two-post service lift?
I use my jack and either a lifting puck or a small block of wood on the bare lifting arm of my jack, I lift one side of the car up, swing the rear arm under, then go to the other side and swing both of those arms under, then remove the floor jack and swing in the remaining arm.....
I only have to do this for lowered C5's.
Your board requirements are not achievable IMO. Any wood that is strong enough will not be light (i.e. hardwoods or compressed treated lumber) and in standard nominal sizes, you will not get the 3" without custom work.
good luck though - I hate it when they just don't have what I need...
best regards -
mqqn
best regards -
mqqn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,453
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From: Fishin' Pole FL
The way the mcmaster ramps are bent would equal 17.5" wide X 144" long X .1046" thick. Each ramp would weigh 74.75 lbs. There is no way a 12 foot long 12 gauge ramp is only going to weigh 11 pounds.
http://www.chapelsteel.com/weight-steel-plate.html
http://www.chapelsteel.com/weight-steel-plate.html
Last edited by dndrsn; Mar 29, 2006 at 12:47 AM.
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From: Wisconsin
Take (5) 2 x 4's what ever length you need, stand them on the 1 1/2" wide side. Space them apart with short pieces of 2 x 4 ( about 10" long)screw and glue everything together. your ramp will be 3 1/2" high and the spacing will make them lighter and easier to handle. If 3 1/2" is too high rip the boards down to the height you want.
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From: Twilight zone
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Hi Mark,
Just a couple of observations, if I may,
I have had this same thought in the past.
Isn't the whole point of this to be lightweight for manuverability?
Two things come to mind
1.Even if you were to acheive ramps at say 11 pounds a piece,THAT is easily moveable. However,once you move them,then you have a 1,000lb. lift to wrestle with to utilize this space with your car, or for anything else for that matter. I know they come with a "dolly" thingy, but,I'll bet your gonna sweat more moving this than a pair 2x12's
2nd,..Race deck.....although I am not very familiar with this material,and I am sure it looks fantastic, I would wager it may have a "compression " issue with a 1,000 lb. lift on it.Especially the way it has to repeatedly Scissor in the same spot,it may cause ruts,which would make the lift even harder to move
Now, if it is like a ceramic tile,then maybe not,but I did not get the impression it is
All in all,I would think the 2x12 in either 1 or 2 sections,painted to look nice,would be your best ,then just leave it
You could even race deck the ramp top and paint the sides,a couple of shots in the concrete........done
Just a couple of observations, if I may,
I have had this same thought in the past.
Isn't the whole point of this to be lightweight for manuverability?
Two things come to mind
1.Even if you were to acheive ramps at say 11 pounds a piece,THAT is easily moveable. However,once you move them,then you have a 1,000lb. lift to wrestle with to utilize this space with your car, or for anything else for that matter. I know they come with a "dolly" thingy, but,I'll bet your gonna sweat more moving this than a pair 2x12's
2nd,..Race deck.....although I am not very familiar with this material,and I am sure it looks fantastic, I would wager it may have a "compression " issue with a 1,000 lb. lift on it.Especially the way it has to repeatedly Scissor in the same spot,it may cause ruts,which would make the lift even harder to move
Now, if it is like a ceramic tile,then maybe not,but I did not get the impression it is
All in all,I would think the 2x12 in either 1 or 2 sections,painted to look nice,would be your best ,then just leave it
You could even race deck the ramp top and paint the sides,a couple of shots in the concrete........done
Last edited by flynbya2; Apr 7, 2006 at 08:30 PM.