"Catch Can" 101
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,808
Likes: 1
From: Sierra Foothills California
"Catch Can" 101
I'm mulling over the benefit of adding the slick looking catch can accessory. I'm wondering when installed on a well tuned 2000 w/ 50K miles, never uses any oil and probably never sees the other side of 4,000 RPM is there really any benefit other than asthetics when the hood is (seldom) opened? Will I ever see any oil in the can? 
Last edited by Vettman 1; Dec 7, 2006 at 09:01 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 4
From: American Canyon Lethal Injection
Originally Posted by Tino
If your car is not burning oil then I would save your money for a more worthwhile mod 
My '97 wasn't using oil until I had 2002 heads and cam installed, then it was catch can time.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
There's much more than meets the eye when it comes to catch cans. Even though I have plenty of experience with compressed air oil, air, and particle "traps" I felt that some automotive-related research was necessary. I expect to be able to post a full report, soon. But in the meantime.......
Most catch cans consist of an aluminum can, possibly some stainless steel wool, and a couple of tube fittings. The idea is that oil that escapes past the piston rings and is normally dumped into the intake manifold, can be "trapped". The presumption of many can vendors is that most of the oil is in bulk (liquid) form. If this were true, then a can would be all you need. Stainless steel helps trap a small amount of oil aerosols but the majority of the airborn stuff flows freely to the intake, undeterred by the coarse wire mesh.
Companies that specialize in air treatment and who have been making filters for decades use a much more effective material to trap the aerosols. It is called borosilicate glass fiber, its density being determined by the flow of air past it. Because our engines flow air through the PCV at slow rates (compared to, say, that of a large air compressor), the ideal "oil trap" is physically very small. Herein lies the problem. From what I've observed, our PCV line can transport 1/3 oz or more of oil every 500 miles. Exactly how much depends on the tightness of the piston rings and how agreesive we drive.
Since a true coalescing filter (with borosilicate fibers) that is designed for low-flow, low pressure, has a liquid oil trap that canhold only one oz of oil, I made a longer version. The filter cost me $43 and the aluminum to make the extended can, a mere $6. Even if I had a bunch of these made by someone else, my total outlay would be less than $80 AND I would have a better "trap" than what is currently available.
So, is a catch worthwhile? That depends on its cost, in my book. Most will catch some of the oil, so they are not worthless, but........
Most catch cans consist of an aluminum can, possibly some stainless steel wool, and a couple of tube fittings. The idea is that oil that escapes past the piston rings and is normally dumped into the intake manifold, can be "trapped". The presumption of many can vendors is that most of the oil is in bulk (liquid) form. If this were true, then a can would be all you need. Stainless steel helps trap a small amount of oil aerosols but the majority of the airborn stuff flows freely to the intake, undeterred by the coarse wire mesh.
Companies that specialize in air treatment and who have been making filters for decades use a much more effective material to trap the aerosols. It is called borosilicate glass fiber, its density being determined by the flow of air past it. Because our engines flow air through the PCV at slow rates (compared to, say, that of a large air compressor), the ideal "oil trap" is physically very small. Herein lies the problem. From what I've observed, our PCV line can transport 1/3 oz or more of oil every 500 miles. Exactly how much depends on the tightness of the piston rings and how agreesive we drive.
Since a true coalescing filter (with borosilicate fibers) that is designed for low-flow, low pressure, has a liquid oil trap that canhold only one oz of oil, I made a longer version. The filter cost me $43 and the aluminum to make the extended can, a mere $6. Even if I had a bunch of these made by someone else, my total outlay would be less than $80 AND I would have a better "trap" than what is currently available.
So, is a catch worthwhile? That depends on its cost, in my book. Most will catch some of the oil, so they are not worthless, but........
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,405
Likes: 26
From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by Vettman 1
I'm mulling over the benefit of adding the slick looking catch can accessory. I'm wondering when installed on a well tuned 2000 w/ 50K miles, never uses any oil and probably never sees the other side of 4,000 RPM is there really any benefit other than asthetics when the hood is (seldom) opened? Will I ever see any oil in the can?
you never go past 4k rpm? what are you waiting for?
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,808
Likes: 1
From: Sierra Foothills California
Originally Posted by Ikester
Oil vapors are still getting into the intake manifold. It must be nasty inside.
you never go past 4k rpm? what are you waiting for?
you never go past 4k rpm? what are you waiting for?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Sorry but why the hell own a Corvette if it never goes over 4000 rpms... see my thread... you need one.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1566022
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1566022
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,641
Likes: 7
From: Beautiful CO
St. jude Donor '14
Check out this link. I hope you find our information helpful. 
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 3
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '15
Originally Posted by Vettman 1
Thanks for the input! I think I'll buy "frame rails" I want to buy my car something for Christmas! My car is a daily driver, so they may be more useful!
My car is a daily driver, so they may be more useful!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Dave68
There's much more than meets the eye when it comes to catch cans. Even though I have plenty of experience with compressed air oil, air, and particle "traps" I felt that some automotive-related research was necessary. I expect to be able to post a full report, soon. But in the meantime.......
Most catch cans consist of an aluminum can, possibly some stainless steel wool, and a couple of tube fittings. The idea is that oil that escapes past the piston rings and is normally dumped into the intake manifold, can be "trapped". The presumption of many can vendors is that most of the oil is in bulk (liquid) form. If this were true, then a can would be all you need. Stainless steel helps trap a small amount of oil aerosols but the majority of the airborn stuff flows freely to the intake, undeterred by the coarse wire mesh.
Companies that specialize in air treatment and who have been making filters for decades use a much more effective material to trap the aerosols. It is called borosilicate glass fiber, its density being determined by the flow of air past it. Because our engines flow air through the PCV at slow rates (compared to, say, that of a large air compressor), the ideal "oil trap" is physically very small. Herein lies the problem. From what I've observed, our PCV line can transport 1/3 oz or more of oil every 500 miles. Exactly how much depends on the tightness of the piston rings and how agreesive we drive.
Since a true coalescing filter (with borosilicate fibers) that is designed for low-flow, low pressure, has a liquid oil trap that canhold only one oz of oil, I made a longer version. The filter cost me $43 and the aluminum to make the extended can, a mere $6. Even if I had a bunch of these made by someone else, my total outlay would be less than $80 AND I would have a better "trap" than what is currently available.
So, is a catch worthwhile? That depends on its cost, in my book. Most will catch some of the oil, so they are not worthless, but........
Most catch cans consist of an aluminum can, possibly some stainless steel wool, and a couple of tube fittings. The idea is that oil that escapes past the piston rings and is normally dumped into the intake manifold, can be "trapped". The presumption of many can vendors is that most of the oil is in bulk (liquid) form. If this were true, then a can would be all you need. Stainless steel helps trap a small amount of oil aerosols but the majority of the airborn stuff flows freely to the intake, undeterred by the coarse wire mesh.
Companies that specialize in air treatment and who have been making filters for decades use a much more effective material to trap the aerosols. It is called borosilicate glass fiber, its density being determined by the flow of air past it. Because our engines flow air through the PCV at slow rates (compared to, say, that of a large air compressor), the ideal "oil trap" is physically very small. Herein lies the problem. From what I've observed, our PCV line can transport 1/3 oz or more of oil every 500 miles. Exactly how much depends on the tightness of the piston rings and how agreesive we drive.
Since a true coalescing filter (with borosilicate fibers) that is designed for low-flow, low pressure, has a liquid oil trap that canhold only one oz of oil, I made a longer version. The filter cost me $43 and the aluminum to make the extended can, a mere $6. Even if I had a bunch of these made by someone else, my total outlay would be less than $80 AND I would have a better "trap" than what is currently available.
So, is a catch worthwhile? That depends on its cost, in my book. Most will catch some of the oil, so they are not worthless, but........
Vette Dan
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 1
From: OKC Oklahoma
My 04 burned no oil. Yet the EE catch can did catch a minor amount of oil. Now after my o4 blew it's crank it's on the brand new crate engine from GM. After breaking in engine for 1000 miles once again there is a very small amount of oil in the catch can.
I'm a believer so for the money I'd vote buy it.
I'm a believer so for the money I'd vote buy it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,135
Likes: 5
From: Newberry FL
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
I highly recommend spending a small fortune on the CATCH CAN. Trust me, take the throttle body off and run your finger in there and you will find that there is more oil in the intake than you think. I constituted sending the $140 I paid to save me much more than that in the long run.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Micah
Just my .02 cents worth.
Micah
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by tstar
Would replacing the steel wool found in most catch cans with borosilcate fibers help? How about some more info on your DIY catch can?
I will try to complete my findings, this weekend.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,320
Likes: 2
From: Salem Oregon
I almost have to lol at this. I just replaced my ops, and when I took the intake off, I laid it upside down on the bench. Two days later I looked in the intake runners, and there was a small pool of oil in each one.
My car will never be without a catch can, of some kind.
My car will never be without a catch can, of some kind.
Last edited by randy814u; Dec 8, 2006 at 12:26 PM.