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Ok kids here goes. I just finished installing my flash back LEDS and some other LEDS in various places.Just waiting for my clear front and side lens to arrive ,thanks to CF member chuck1026 After reading all the posts and results on leds and the problems that have been happening ,I still decided to dive in.
So if what I have been reading is correct then the problem with the front DRLs is that the resistors that are being used are burning up. and the same for the rear Halo LEDS. The resistor or load equalizer is being used to counter the fast flash problem that has been inherent in these lights. There has to be something that I'm missing here because it does not sound right to me as to why the over heating and melt down of the resistors is happening . The DRLs are on all the time, the flash will only happen when power is introduced ,so that means that the load equalizer is only hot when power is introduced to the flash.I tested this with my meter.The same goes for the rear lights. Is it possible that those installing the LEDs have been taping the constant hot wire rather than the swiched wire for the flash fuction. It just seem that way . If I'm wrong please someone correct me.Sorry no pictures at this time camera on loan. I love love the look of this so far .The switch backs are killer ,can't wait for the clear corners and rear side to arrive
The DRL and the flash are on the same circuit, the flash is 50% duty cycle and the DRL are 100% duty cycle. The fast flash is used to indicate a bad bulb, the LEDs draw very little current, and hence the flash module thinks a bulb is burnt out.
Hey Brent hows things in your neck of the woods. I've got alots of great things coming down the pipe,both for my C5 , and all C5 & C6s. I will try and keep everything posted and up to date
The DRL and the flash are on the same circuit, the flash is 50% duty cycle and the DRL are 100% duty cycle. The fast flash is used to indicate a bad bulb, the LEDs draw very little current, and hence the flash module thinks a bulb is burnt out.
OK I understand that , but if the power to the load eq is only hot when the signal is activated ,than it should not melt down because the power to it is only on a short time........ yes
Hey Brent hows things in your neck of the woods. I've got alots of great things coming down the pipe,both for my C5 , and all C5 & C6s. I will try and keep everything posted and up to date
Things are going good, finally getting my belt and bearing issues worked out and i splurged and got a set of used headers to put on too
Ok kids here goes. I just finished installing my flash back LEDS and some other LEDS in various places.Just waiting for my clear front and side lens to arrive ,thanks to CF member chuck1026 After reading all the posts and results on leds and the problems that have been happening ,I still decided to dive in.
So if what I have been reading is correct then the problem with the front DRLs is that the resistors that are being used are burning up. and the same for the rear Halo LEDS. The resistor or load equalizer is being used to counter the fast flash problem that has been inherent in these lights. There has to be something that I'm missing here because it does not sound right to me as to why the over heating and melt down of the resistors is happening . The DRLs are on all the time, the flash will only happen when power is introduced ,so that means that the load equalizer is only hot when power is introduced to the flash.I tested this with my meter.The same goes for the rear lights. Is it possible that those installing the LEDs have been taping the constant hot wire rather than the swiched wire for the flash fuction. It just seem that way . If I'm wrong please someone correct me.Sorry no pictures at this time camera on loan. I love love the look of this so far .The switch backs are killer ,can't wait for the clear corners and rear side to arrive
IMHO, I would advise the load equalizers on the halo's, and JDM's light splice for the drl's. When used on the Halo's, the load equalizers only have to work when the turn signals and/or the brake lights are applied. When used on the drl's they must work all the time. When I installed the load equalizers on my car, I put the brake lights on for 5 minutes, the load equalizers were hot. I still have the load equalizer package here, it says "For intermittent use only, such as turn signals and brake lights" JDM's procedure is the way to go for DRl's.
IMHO, I would advise the load equalizers on the halo's, and JDM's light splice for the drl's. When used on the Halo's, the load equalizers only have to work when the turn signals and/or the brake lights are applied. When used on the drl's they must work all the time. When I installed the load equalizers on my car, I put the brake lights on for 5 minutes, the load equalizers were hot. I still have the load equalizer package here, it says "For intermittent use only, such as turn signals and brake lights" JDM's procedure is the way to go for DRl's.
Right ,but the flash fuction is only hot when activated then lead for the resister are only active when you activate the turn signal .Is that not the same as the rear LEDS .When the rear lights are on they are 100% duty at that time and the flash fuction is only hot when activated .This is the same for the front DRLs,even if they are on 100% of the time the flash portion is only hot when activated , thus the resistor is inline with the flash lead . I tested this with a meter. There is no power to the resister untill you activate the turn signal.
I have Halo LED's in the rear and switchbacks in the front and they NEVER hyper flash since I put the LED flasher in, with the car running, shut off, stepping on the brake, ect........ It's not that tough to do and it's a whole lot better and safer than screwing around with resisters. If you want let me know and if you have any questions I'll walk you through doing it.
I have Halo LED's in the rear and switchbacks in the front and they NEVER hyper flash since I put the LED flasher in, with the car running, shut off, stepping on the brake, ect........ It's not that tough to do and it's a whole lot better and safer than screwing around with resisters. If you want let me know and if you have any questions I'll walk you through doing it.
Hey thank you so much for checking in. I was hoping you would show up. I would love that have the direction's for your fasher. Can you email them to me at .....nastyvette@sympatico.ca. please.
Since I plan on getting the rear LEDs as well I might as well do it right from the start.
Thanks again.