Okay my car is undrivable. The clutch has been getting progressively worse and worse. I have changed the fluid 6 times with the Ranger method.

The problem is the clutch is not disengaging at all, it has progressively gotten to the point I can not get it in gear, and it is accelerating with the clutch pedal fully depressed. I got it home driving it like a car without a clutch, but I don't want to drive it anymore until I get this resolved... Yet it is my daily driver...

Ironically my wife misunderstood me 2-3 months ago and ordered me a new Master Cylinder and a new Slave cylinder, which I have just sitting around... I have the GMPP on the car which is an 2003 Z06, with 34k in the clock.

Someone have any suggestion? Is there a way to get air out of the line without getting underneath to the slave? Or am I up poop creek without a paddle and just need to replace all of the hydraulics?

BTW, I checked and the clutch itself is not slipping at all...

 

I'm a believer in self-help until the options for it are exhausted.

GMPP with some support from the dealer should cover fixing the clutch. The normal approach would be to replace every thing including the hydraulics. Sometimes a dealer may state the clutch is a wear-and-tear part. That would be true if the clutch were "worn out." But it may not be.

So flatbedding the car to the dealer is an option. The roll-of-the-dice element is will they cover a fix under GMPP. If they don't you're looking at $1200+.

So before going that route, I'd following my protocol for another 10-15 reservoir changes with the obligatory pedal pumps. Continue until the fluid is absolutely clear and no more bubble appear in the reservoir. Protocol is here: Taking Care of Your Clutch

Will cost you $10 worth of fluid and take an hour. May not help but worth trying. If nothing changes, cross your fingers for GMPP.

If you'd like to discuss particulars to sharpen the diagnosis, PM me a phone number.

Ranger

 

Ranger thanks for the reply!

I have to go to work in a few minutes here, but I am leaving the car in the car port until I can do something with it on Monday (my first day off incidentally). I have already gone through a whole bottle of Dot 4 in the last two days, and have one more that I can keep swapping until exhausted. Unfortunately it will probably have to wait until the morning when I get off at 7am.

I also thought of putting the car up in the air and just bleeding the clutch slave, but honestly would need a lift since my jack and ramps don't fit underneath my own car... The clutch is a relatively new Textralia and everything should have been replaced with it, although I honestly don't know since it was done before I owned the car and I am going on what was told to me.

I do have a new Master and Slave in possession, I just don't really have the disposable income at this time to buy another $1k clutch and flywheel.

I will try to swap out the fluid a few more times, and try to find someway to put the car in the air and bleed the slave...

I am just suffering from a little frustration, and will have to drive the wife's car for the next two nights. Oh well, at least her car will not leave me wanting for speed or power...

EDIT: I checked the clutch in the normal methods to see if there is any slippage. 20mph run in 5th gear and the car accelerated with no hint of slip, that and testing 4-6 the same way and no hint of slip. Car actually bogged a little and would accelerate with no problem with, or hint of, the RPM's climbing away from the cars acceleration. Matter of fact with the clutch not disengaging fully, the car would accelerate with the clutch depressed and a little throttle... *sigh*

So I am pretty positive the clutch is not worn, but the hydraulics are the culprit. Whether it just needs a good bleeding, or new hydraulics...

 

The clutch disengaging (releasing) doesn't really have anything to do with it slipping (or in your case not slipping). So likely, your plate clamp is fine, as is the disc (ie no slip) but you are having release problems (ie, the disc/input shaft is not free wheeling when you step on the pedal). This is a situation of something wrong with the PP spring/fingers (broken/collapsed), or the TOB/slave not properly working the PP fingers, and releasing the clutch. Start with the fluid deal (if you do have to change your clutch, put in a remote bleeder line for future EASY and quick/proper fluid flushing). As is, you'll have to do Ranger's method.

If your fluid is good (no air, etc), then it's a slave/TOB or PP/finger problem

 

I was mainly worried that the increased friction/heat from the clutch not totally disengaging could have damaged the actual clutch/flywheel. That is why I checked for slippage since this has been an issue that was an annoyance when I first got the car, and then went away when I did Ranger's method the first time.

It just came back full force, and more, in the last two days. I have already changed the fluid numerous times in that time frame. Right now it is almost perfectly clear, with a little murkiness, so I will attempt to change it again.

I just want to forearm myself if I get too deep in over my head. It may end up on a flat-bed to the dealership, but so I don't end up paying for something I don't have too, since IMHO what I think is happening and in essence what you and Ranger have stated, should hopefully be covered by that expensive warranty I bought with the car...

Thank you very much for your insight, it is very useful information!

 

When it comes to clutch fluid, clear means clear, zero murkiness. Clear is gauged when the fluid is agitated from driving or 20 pedal pumps.

Good luck with the procedure. Let us know how it goes.

If the protocol fails, I'd suggest calling Textralia customer spt line. They have a very strong reputation for helping owners diagnose issues.

Ranger

 

I don't see where your extended warranty is going to help to replace an aftermarket clutch.

 

Correcto.

That Azrael Z06 clutch is not stock is a fact that emerged late in the exchanges on his circumstances.

Ranger

 

I do the Ranger protocol, but one little trick I discovered is when refilling, I poke a small hole in the seal under the cap of the clutch fluid bottle. That way I can refill with good accuracy to the fill line because the fluid comes out very slow. You can squeeze the (plastic) can to get a bigger squirt, or dribble it in slowly. Just put your finger over the hole when you invert the can to the resevoir. Don't lick your finger afterward.

 

Sounds like the clutch should be fine.

You probably have a leaking master cylinder, or more likely, the slave cylinder.

 

I would first talk to textralia and see what they have to say. If thay can't help I would look for a local shop and take it to them. Clutch replacement costs were reciently covered in the NorCal section, do a search.

If it were me and it were my DD, I'd cut my losses and get it replaced with a stock LS6 clutch. I Have a guy in Sacramento that could probably save you a couple hundred bucks. Let me know if you want to bring it all the way up here. Good luck

Jade

 

Well the facts are that I bought the GM Certified Z06, with the GMPP, with the Textralia already in place. I did not know it had an aftermarket clutch until a month later when the original owner was encountered. I have not touched the internals of this car at all, for this reason.

Now, I never expected the GMPP (even though I was told when I bought it that it does cover wear items like FMC's extended warranties) to cover the clutch, just the hydraulics or anything else involved; which is not technically a wear item (unless GM does consider the hydraulics a wear item). IMHO the clutch is fine, it just may need new hydraulics/PP/TOB.

I was shocked myself to find the GM Certified car had aftermarket parts, but I am sure that the certification does not cover taking the drivetrain apart to verify an actual LS6 clutch.

*shrug*

I am just a civil servant, not a GM tech, and this is the first Corvette I have ever driven or owned (my wife converted me from being a Ford guy with our Camaro).

I came on here just for advice and suggestions. I already have the hydraulics because the wife got them for me through a miscommunication on my part. I could even do the work myself if I had the time and the lift. I am just looking for advice not a free lunch, but I have had the car for 6 months and about 5k miles and am just a little dismayed that my GM certified car is down again with another "problem". Whether it is from the car getting beat on by the previous owner, or some mechanical failure I am unsure.

I have not seen any loss of resevoir fluid in the times I have changed the clutch fluid using Ranger's method. But I am sure a minute leak could go unnoticed...

The help and advice is appreciated.

It was a late discovery for me as well, although one I was not necessarily dissappointed with. Needless to say after having read my GMPP literature myself, I realize that they will not cover the clutch disk itself. AFAIK the Hydraulics are GM OEM, but it is possible that there may be even more aftermarket Easter eggs hidden in my car. I have not even verified that the Tex is actually in place, as I have not actually taken the car apart to see. I am basing my "knowledge" (*or ignorance) of my own car based on what was told to me from the original owner, the dealership, and my tuner who drove my car and also stated he was sure it was a Tex clutch by its engagement and driving characteristics (without me ever saying anything about it to him).

Who knows, I guess it is the gamble we all play buying a used car...

BTW I usually just go by "Azrael" (LS1tech, LS1.com, LS2.com, Z06Vette.com, etc.) but that had already been taken when I registered here so I just added the Z06 for registration purposes...

 

Oh, that's kind of special circumstances, but to be fair, wasn't completely explained up front. Seems to me if the warranty is from a GM "certified" used car, and the part is covered, then you have a claim. Like you say, the clutch is probably fine, but you better have an agreement in writing from whichever dealer performs the service. It's been my experience that new car dealer's will go to great lengths to not have to perform warranty work. Good luck, and report back your results.

 

LOL precisely ! In my experience too, that is why I sort of mentioned the GMPP as an afterthought in my original post, and instead came on here to see if I could rectify it myself...

 

If you're looking for a dealership, I'd try Fairfield chevrolet. They tend to be very helpful and are mod friendly. Ask for Rich in parts, he has helped out a lot of CF guys. Good luck

Jade

 

Did you try bleeding it with a Mity-vac! It works like a charm. That's how I bled my slave when I installed the Tex clutch in mine last January. Give it a try, it might solve your problem. HTH

Jimbo

 

Just an update on the car. My Vette was flatbedded to a Chevrolet Dealership this afternoon.

My wife and I spent 3 1/2 hours with a Mityvac and 3 bottles of Prestone Synthetic DOT 4. We made sure the reservior was absolutely clean and the fluid clear.

Unfortunately I do believe something in the hydraulics is DOA, since we could never get the clutch to disengage.

Chevrolet Road Side assistance is awesome. Car was towed to Boardwalk Chevrolet in Redwood City, because it was the closest... I was not too happy with that; and it was further worrisome for the Service Advisor to tell me he could not find my GMPP plan in the computer (although Chevy Roadside found it). I tried to explain to him it is there or the car would not be there at the dealership. I have the hard copy versions of my contract from the original dealer, the pamphlet GMPP sent me with my specific coverage (Major Guard, with the dates of the coverage and mileage covered), and the ID card GMPP sent with the same basic information.

Needless to say I am beginning to worry that the dealership may try to give it to me without vaseline...

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

- Jack

 

In any case, run out and get a bleeder hose assemby. Have whoever install it while the clutch is out. lapd sells them

 

Thanks for the update. I'd suggest instructing the dealer not to touch the car until they find the GMPP coverage.

Let us know how it goes.

You might want to keep in mind the name RichieRichZ06 who's inside the Chevy system. He can provide reliable info if your servicing dealer starts spinning a yarn.

Ranger

 

I will personally check on your car in the shop when I get in at 9:00 am and see what is going on with it.

Thanks,