OK, so it looks like I may have the headlight gear issue. On the way home from our local Corvette club meeting last night, stopped for gas. Turned off the lights and got the grinding for 3-4 seconds when I shut off the lights.

Strange thing was, when I turned on the parking lights, they popped up. The headlights did not come on until I rotated the control stalk all the way.

Could this be more than the gears?

Think this may be covered by my GMPP?

 

I just got the same exact issues.

How do you replace one of these? Any DIY instructions?

Somebody please help.

 

There is about a 99% chance you need Rodney Dinkman's brass gear repair set ($49 plus delivery per headlight). Just do a search and you'll find all the info you need. This is definitely a DIY install. I even did it without removing the headlight buckets.

 

so easy a CAVEMAN could do it.

 

 

well lets hope that when I get Rodneys kit that I am that caveman.

 

You have the dreaded headlight gears problem. Its a well known problem and GMPP should cover it. If you decide to go DIY the thread below describes it in detail. Run down to the headlight gears section. Most members suggest that if you do one gear you may as well do both as it becomes easier second time around. I've had a warranty fix on one side but I have 2 brass gears waiting to go in. I have Euro headlights which are heavier so its just a question of time. Rodneys kit comes with a bracket to reseal the motor and I think he'll give you a discount for 2 gears.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=984927

On the headlights coming on, thats the way it should work. First position is lamps down and parking lights; 2nd position lamps up and headlights on.

 

Here is a write-up I did awhile back.
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Yesterday while showing off the car to some company, after lowering the headlights I noted a strange noise. I turned the headlights back on and once they came up to a full stop the noise quit. I lowered them and once fully down the noise continued. I popped the hood and found the right side headlight motor was running continiously. I turned the headlights on again and once they opened up, I moved the switch to the parking light position and disconnected the battery.

After some debate and a couple of phone calls, I found the part at "Corvette Country" in Fayetteville. All he had was the plastic gear, but it was better than nothing and I did not want to wait a week to get the brass gear.

The replacement should be good for the '97 to 2000 models. I think in 2001 the motors were "sealed".

I tackled the job this morning and it was pretty easy. It took me about 1.5 hours start to finish.


Tools I used -
1.4" ratchet.
3/8" ratchet.
10 mm sockets for each ratchet.
10 mm combo wrench.
1/4" drive, 1/4" socket.
Phillips screwdriver.
#15 Torx.
5/16" "dogbone" wrench for the battery connection.

With the headlights up and the battery disconnected I removed the plastic bezel from around the right headlight. This is held on by three phillips screws.



I removed the "Lid" for the right headlight by removing the four (4) #15 Torx screws. There are two in the back, one on the right side and one on the left side. Notice these have slotted holes. This is how you can adjust the lid so it is flush with the hood, fender and front bumper.



Notice the position of the headlight actuation arm and which direction the elbow bends. Taking note of which way the elbow bends when closing the headlight with the manual **** will save some headaches a little later.



The headlight actuation arm is held on by one 10mm nut.
The headlight motor is held on at three attach points, two of which are 10mm bolts and the last one (upper aft) is a 10mm bolt that runs through the unit and frame and secured with a 10mm nut.
In the picture you should notice the ratchet on the right (inboard) side of the motor, and a 10mm wrench on the left (outboard) side of the motor. The combo wrench is holding the nut.
NOTE: Once the actuation arm is free from the drive shaft, the headlight assy is free to move to the retracted position.



Once the three attach points and the actuation arm hardware has been removed, the motor can be worked free. There is still a harness connected. I opted not to disconnect the harness.



The gear cover is held on by three 1/4" bolts. Once you remove these bolts make sure you remove the gasket as it will be replaced. As you remove the cover, note on the drive shaft there is a washer, then a plastic spacer. Remove these and keep in a safe place. BEFORE you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, make a reference mark on the drive shaft and the housing. This is important so as to relocate the drive shaft in the same position. The opposite end of the drive shaft where it connects to the actuation arm can be connected two ways.
Once you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, note there is a plastic spacer and a washer on the other side of the plastic gear.



Here is the plastic gear, drive shaft, plastic spacer and washer.
Pull the drive shaft from the plastic gear and replace the gear. The gear has "slots" and the drive shaft has "ears" which will engage easily. I applied a light coat of plastic grease to the gear teeth.



Here at about the six o'clock position you can see the damage to the gear itself and the teeth which caused the motor to run continiously.



Reverse the removal / disconnect procedures and use the reference marks on the drive shaft and the housing made earlier to reassemble everything.

 

Great write up thanks

 

I would think that this would be covered by your extended warranty. They will only put in stock parts though would be my guess (not the brass gears). Good luck with the repair.

 

What he was referring to was that the first position popped up (lamps up) the headlights, but as you stated they were not suppose to.

first position lights popped up, but headlight not on. 2nd position still up but now light are on. This is our symptom.

 

your symptom is caused by the gear problem.

 

Excellent write up! Thats the one I followed when I replaced mine.