[Z06] pinging
. any ideas on how to take care of this?





2nd hard accelleration in 6th @ 55mph... no such thing down shift too low RPM's.
I would run 93 octane and a good cleaner and open it up in the RPM's to clear out the carbon and see if it goes away.
I ran across this article, it seems you and I aren't the only ones, as where I live we can only get 91 octane, but this article helped explain why its happening.
I am going to try adding some torco additive during the hot summer months, as when it cools off, the pinging goes away.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/fuel/page2.htm
I NEVER drive in 6th gear UNLESS its a flat long road and even then probably not. In fact I don think my car has ever been in 6th gear in the last 20K miles. Anything even on the lightest uphill shoudn't ever be in 6th pinging at 1500-1800 rpms unless you just wanna drive like a 85 year old lady..I mean why the heck do that? Trying to save gas?
I'm always in 5th on freeways with traffic or without and I never have my engine at ANY rpms under 2K no matter where I'm driving or what road I'm on.
If it pings at a low rpm then shift down....Its not rocket science here people!
On 100 degree days running 91 octane I have never pinged and I drive the living hell out of my Z06.
Last edited by briann510; Sep 10, 2007 at 12:18 AM.
So many on these forums complain about pinging... that's what your knock sensors are there for.
Unless you have a DTC set showing a problem with the knock sensors, it is unkikely you are hearing a true knock.
Most people today don't know what a real knock sounds like since the engine computers reduce/eliminate it. Back in my "younger and less responsible days" a buddy of mine and I took his dad's Cadillac Eldorado over the "hills" to Santa Cruz. The engine was an 8.2 liter (yeah ... 500 cubic inch) monster that ran on premium fuel. On arrival in Santa Cruz we realized we didn't have enough fuel to get back home ... so scrounging around we came up with enough cash to put enough fuel in to get back ... but at "regular" prices ... not "premium" as the owner's manual said we needed.
The car sounded like a gang of iron workers were driving rivets into the engine block as we climbed back over the "hills" of Highway 17 .... not so bad on the downhill run into the bay area .... the iron workers went back to work on the flat run back to the house .... and when we got back to his house we couldn't shut down the engine. It was turned off but with the engine continuing to run on the diesel effect, and a carburetor feeding fuel to it (because a carb feeds fuel based on air flow) it took several minutes before the fuel pressure dropped enough to finally shut down the engine.
Needless to say, his dad was one PISSED OFF dude after our escapade. The only good news was that the fuel tank was so empty that a fill with Premium fuel quickly cleared the knock issue.
The point is, a knock is not some subtle change in engine note .... it really does sound like hammers being slammed against the engine block. If you have a knock you will know it. Anything less is managed by the engine computer.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Yes, it is pinging, because as the temperature drops down to around 75 degrees, the pinging does go away.
If you read the article I posted, it does go into detail about this. Their are other articles and some call it coil dwell, due to the cam events at that RPM.
The pinging also stops when I put in an additive.
When my car was stock, I would only get this only on very hot days, i.e over 95 degrees. This is in agreement with the article I posted. I have been in DFW, got 93 octane, and have no problems. But now that my heads are milled, only to 62 cc's, and only have 91 octane, I get it around 85 degrees.
I do have friends that run 89 octane on their stock Z06's, and live in the same area, and never hear it. Of course their wives say they never listen anyway..........
My 01 z06 knocks too. and it does not correct itself. I have to let off, or shift, then it will stop.
I also found the same thing with temps. I cant get it to do it in the 60's down. but above say 75 or more, it will knock sometimes randomly. I never had a knock in 6th, or 5th... all mine are in usually 1st or second going to redline. a couple of instances in 3rd
I once had it knock down hill in 75 degree's 1st gear full throttle on 91 octane and octane booster. I though maybe the booster was causing it since I never had it down hill.
I later filled the tank with 100 octane in the summer here 90+ degrees out and never got the car to detonate beating it senselessly.
I am not getting any codes or anything. My tune has been in the car for over a year now, my tuner suggested I change my fuel filter before we go into looking at the tune. I only have 28k on the car.
I went to replace filter only to find that my cars filter is in the tank
I have also been hearing odd noises coming from what I believe is the fuel pump. Not sure if it's a clogged filter causing the pump to complain about it, or if it's all due to the pump.
I know for a fact that I've had knocking, so why wouldn't the car be showing a code?
I am not getting any codes or anything. My tune has been in the car for over a year now, my tuner suggested I change my fuel filter before we go into looking at the tune. I only have 28k on the car.
I went to replace filter only to find that my cars filter is in the tank
I have also been hearing odd noises coming from what I believe is the fuel pump. Not sure if it's a clogged filter causing the pump to complain about it, or if it's all due to the pump.
I know for a fact that I've had knocking, so why wouldn't the car be showing a code?
Check PCM for Knock Retard - can be anywhere from 0 to 16 degrees of retard
Test for correct fuel pressure
Test for contaminated/alcohol in fuel
Check Long Term Fuel Trim (near 23 percent is too high)
Check heat range of spark plugs
Check engine cooling system for performance
Check engine for oil in combustion chambers (excessive oil consumption) - leaking valve seals
Check cylinder compression - excess carbon buildup in combustion chambers
Check (automatic) for TCC proper operation - Applying TCC too soon can cause knock.
If you're running some other brand/type of plug ... try switching to the AC Delco 41-985 that are pre-gapped (correctly) at .040 maybe that will help.
Last edited by BlackZ06; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:46 AM.
Check PCM for Knock Retard - can be anywhere from 0 to 16 degrees of retard
Test for correct fuel pressure
Test for contaminated/alcohol in fuel
Check Long Term Fuel Trim (near 23 percent is too high)
Check heat range of spark plugs
Check engine cooling system for performance
Check engine for oil in combustion chambers (excessive oil consumption) - leaking valve seals
Check cylinder compression - excess carbon buildup in combustion chambers
Check (automatic) for TCC proper operation - Applying TCC too soon can cause knock.
If you're running some other brand/type of plug ... try switching to the AC Delco 41-985 that are pre-gapped (correctly) at .040 maybe that will help.
Thanks for the info
I read on the internet last night that there are 2 fuel pumps, 1 constantly pumping from right tank to the left tank and that it operates silently, and the other is in the left tank and can be noisy, but is not an indication of pump failure. The information stated that there was a tech.service bulletin about this issue from GM.
Anyone heard of that?
I read on the internet last night that there are 2 fuel pumps, 1 constantly pumping from right tank to the left tank and that it operates silently, and the other is in the left tank and can be noisy, but is not an indication of pump failure. The information stated that there was a tech.service bulletin about this issue from GM.
Anyone heard of that?
There are two "pumps" ... but they are different ....
The car has two fuel tanks ... Left and Right. When you fill the car the fuel fills the left tank and then flows across and fills the right tank. When you start the engine, the electric fuel pump in the left tank feeds fuel to the engine. Just after the fuel line leaves the electric pump there is a "T" fitting that routes a flow of pressurized fuel to the right tank. In the right tank that fuel flows through a siphon pump and then flows back to the left tank along with fuel picked up by the siphon effect. As you drive the right tank is slowly drained and the left tank is the feed tank for the engine.
That's why the right "pump" is silent, and theoreticcally never needs service as it has no moving parts in it.
The Long Term Fuel Trim is an interesting possibility indicating something is basically wrong with the tune.
Last edited by zulatr; Sep 12, 2007 at 12:28 PM.
Unfortunately you cannot display parameters like LTFT on the DIC. You will need tuning software to read it. Check, not all of the "tuners" can read some parameters. Some of the cheaper scanners can't report items like LTFT.
Unless you have a DTC set showing a problem with the knock sensors, it is unkikely you are hearing a true knock.
Most people today don't know what a real knock sounds like since the engine computers reduce/eliminate it. Back in my "younger and less responsible days" a buddy of mine and I took his dad's Cadillac Eldorado over the "hills" to Santa Cruz. The engine was an 8.2 liter (yeah ... 500 cubic inch) monster that ran on premium fuel. On arrival in Santa Cruz we realized we didn't have enough fuel to get back home ... so scrounging around we came up with enough cash to put enough fuel in to get back ... but at "regular" prices ... not "premium" as the owner's manual said we needed.
The car sounded like a gang of iron workers were driving rivets into the engine block as we climbed back over the "hills" of Highway 17 .... not so bad on the downhill run into the bay area .... the iron workers went back to work on the flat run back to the house .... and when we got back to his house we couldn't shut down the engine. It was turned off but with the engine continuing to run on the diesel effect, and a carburetor feeding fuel to it (because a carb feeds fuel based on air flow) it took several minutes before the fuel pressure dropped enough to finally shut down the engine.
Needless to say, his dad was one PISSED OFF dude after our escapade. The only good news was that the fuel tank was so empty that a fill with Premium fuel quickly cleared the knock issue.
The point is, a knock is not some subtle change in engine note .... it really does sound like hammers being slammed against the engine block. If you have a knock you will know it. Anything less is managed by the engine computer.














