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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 07:38 AM
  #21  
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DO what you can to purchase an enclosed 24' trailer

Some times when you get home LATE LATE sunday night you are dog tired. Just leaving every thing in the locked trailer is great. vs an open trailer you have to put everything away.

But if it means an open trailer to get a bigger tow vehical 2500, go with that combo.

You can never have too much tow vehicle, but you sure can have too small of truck.

Tow load should be no more then 80% of the trucks capacity.

The other thing, 2500or larger diesel full bed pick up trucks used in a business or DBA may qualify for special tax benefits.
GM also has a Business discount $500 on purchase of new trucks 2500 or 3500

I was looking at a Chevy 3500 diesel doully WT with a few options. It was $39,400 OUT THE DOOR. That is less then most SUVs
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 07:42 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cscokd
I've been also looking at tie downs...particularly the T Hooks from AWDirect (PD-1)s. My question is with the puck slots under the doors, and the car so low to the ground, how can you ratchet down the straps which will have to cross under the car. It will be especially difficult on the front with the air spoiler. How do you guys do this? Maybe I'll need E-track on the floor instead of D-rings.
John
No problem. I lay on the deck in front of the car, toss the strap under to the side. Reach down behind the front wheel grab the strap and put it in the t-hook.
Do the other side, then cross the straps in front and attach to the D-ring. Go to the back same thing there.



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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cscokd
I've been also looking at tie downs...particularly the T Hooks from AW Direct (PD-1)s. My question is with the puck slots under the doors, and the car so low to the ground, how can you ratchet down the straps which will have to cross under the car. It will be especially difficult on the front with the air spoiler. How do you guys do this? Maybe I'll need E-track on the floor instead of D-rings.
John
John,

I have a pair of 2"X10"s I cut about 4 feet long, that I run the front wheels up on to provide a bit of additional clearance under the front end. I can then get under the front end of even the C5's and C6's easier to attach the straps. Normally I do not cross the front straps and rarely have a problem with the straps hitting the spoilers. If they do, I just wrap an old kitchen towel around the strap where it touches the spoiler to prevent damage to the spoiler or the strap.

A lot depends on the angle to reach the front trailer tie-down, so I've added a couple of extra tie-downs closer to the front of the car. This is normally enough that the front spoilers are rarely an issue. The E-track system is very handy, especially if you're carrying different length vehicles, but just adding a couple of extra D-rings can be a big help.

I also have the 2"X10"s marked to a reference point in the trailer so that I can place them exactly where they need to be for each of my cars. It saves a lot of time if you haul different vehicles or just need to remove them to clean up.

When I ordered my Autowagon, I also ordered the extra side door to allow me to open the car door and get out of the car easily. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Frankly the doors on Corvettes are so low, that I'd have to raise the height of the cars at least another 2 inches to open the car door through the trailer door. Perhaps with some other vehicles it would be more useful, but I've found it only useful for getting a breeze through the trailer.

I do agree with getting a 24' trailer if you've got the vehicle to tow it. You can always use a little more room, even with Corvettes. Once you add cabinets in the front, a couple more feet makes a huge difference. I'll be selling my 22' soon and ordering a new one that's 24' for that reason.

Good luck... GUSTO

Check out Racing Junk dot com... I am amazed at the bargains offered in there on trailers etc. I guess there are a lot of folks that plunk down big bucks for some of these trailers and then just decide to dump them a year or two later...
http://www.racingjunk.com/

Last edited by GUSTO14; Feb 10, 2008 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GettReal
Do you have a picture of the vette in the trailer? Im curious about what trailers have the lower wheelwell so you can actually open the car doors. Can you still open it even if the car is realllllllly low?
Sorry I do not have any photo's, trailer is awaiting my pick up at the dealership. The measurement from the floor to the top of the fender is 8" if I remember correctly. Yes my car lowered.....Phadt's. I worked directly with Wells Cargo to insure it is to my spec, they then gave a retail quote with details to shop the dealers. I also have door's over both fenders so you back in or drive in.
I may have to slightly raise the front of trailer with the tongue jack ot get the car in, this was a compromise for 12000 lbs axles to accommodate the Bobcat.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #25  
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If your car is lowered you may need to get ramp extensions.

Mine are 5 foot aluminum extensions, by Pit Products.

My splitter just clears the ramp to door by 1/4". That is also with jacking the trailer tongue UP.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 02:56 PM
  #26  
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This is all good stuff to know. I measured my clearance to the bottom of my doors on the vette and it's right at 8 inches which I think is the same height of the trailer fender well boxes. So I imagine clearance will be a challenge.

I have a turbo diesel Ford truck and could go the 5th wheel route but then I wouldn't be able to use my Yukon SUV to pull it. Yukon has plenty of power but might be a little lightweight to pull the loaded 24' trailer. After reading this thread, I'm getting the feeling I probably need to use my truck.
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