Just curious for those who race their vettes, what brand, length, style car trailers have you used with good results? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
John

 

I have a haulmark 24 foot and have been very happy with it.

 

The Halmark (Racing) trailer is hard to beat for value vs price. They are rather heavy though so be aware of that fact! Good luck, Ron

 

some will tell you that they use a 1/2 ton truck or suv to pull one, but I can tell you that my escalade ESV which is 1/2 ton was on borrowed time pulling it.

 

I have a 24 ft. Haulmark Thrifty. Trailer has about 25,000 miles on it and I have had no major problems. Decent trailer for the money

 

Funny because out of all the trailers I've been looking at, Haulmark has surfaced as the one that looks like the best quality for the price. I assume since several of you have Haulmark trailers, there's no issues loading our vettes.
John

 

I my self had a 24 haulmark, with diamond plated floors and ramp overs. Haulmark and Pace are two of the best ones, imho.

 

For those of you who own car haulers for track events, what features would you recommend now that you've used your trailers? Things like length, GVWR, axle capacity, tie down rails, paneling, air vents, side door, winch, cabinets, diamond plating, generator, AC, etc. etc. Thanks all for your responses.

 

Pace Purist 24 foot









Few thoughts:

Minimum 3500# axles 5000# lbs much better
electric brakes on both axles

Just get a race car package which has almost all of what you ask.

Use t-hooks and 5000# tie down straps, Chains in front works too.

Dont use a winch without a tow hook on the front of your car.

Side drivers doors are OK, but you still crawl out the drives side window when you drive the car up into the trailer. Which I do.

Truck needs to be 1500 MINIMUM with a 9000 tow capacity and heavy duty tow package.

I use a 1500HD and it has worked. Changed trans, diff fluids each winter, bleed brakes before each tow, never faster then 60 on smooth highways. 45 up or down mountains. I hate 18 wheelers passing me.
Looking at 3500 diesel doully now

2500 is would be far better choice

Wt distribution load leveling hitch

Most trailers shorter then 24 feet dont have the load capacity for a vette, and junk. and there will be junk, LOTS OF JUNK

tools, tires, cooler, fuel, jacks, small spare parts, compressor, spare this , spare that.

Boards: two 2"x12"x24" Lots of 2"x4" x 12" used for all kinds of things. ( wheel chalks, jacking blocks,

TWO spare trailer tires. they blow out in twos, both right sides go ff the pavement and BANG BANG.
Small pistion jack the can lift your trailer with all the junk inside

 

A lot of folks that I autocross with have Pace and Haulmark trailers. They are considered good value for the money, and most are very pleased with them.

I would recommend that if possible you order the trailer that suits your needs today and avoid the "I'll just add that later" syndrome. I ordered my trailer in 1991 and it took me almost 10 years to get it the way I really wanted. There are lots of things you can add later, but things like an aluminum floor, wiring for 110v, or cabinets can be a real hassle and almost as expensive to do later. Ordering it up front will put you ahead of the "as soon as I can get to it" power curve. (Buy the way, without cabinets, you run out of floor space very quickly... oh and you'd better tie that stuff down!!)

By all means be sure that you have a tow vehicle that is adequate to the job. I've seen lots of folks towing large trailers with underrated vehicles that "do the job"... I just don't want to be around them when they find out they have exceeded their tow capacity. This usually occurs in an emergency!

I bought a 22' Wells Cargo Autowagon and have been very pleased with it. I have even stored a car in it for 9 years while I did a couple of tours overseas. Considering what storage would have cost, I feel like I got the trailer for free...

I've carried my '63, '73, '85, & 2000 Corvettes in this as well as my sons '06 ZO-6. Now it spends most of it's time hauling my toy car that I autocross...


GUSTO

 

alot of great tips in this thread. Of all the comments made....don't skimp on the trailer or the tow vehicle.

 

Good thread! I will be looking into a good trailer as soon as Im out of Iraq! Keep the sugestions coming, fellows!

 

If your car is lowered, make sure the approach angle is low enough that you don't scratch or tear off the lower air dam with the door/ramp. If not get a set of these.



GP until the 18th of this month 15% off enter code cfcoup3. www.raceramps.com
Thanks for all your biz CF members,
Brute

 

There's one in the c-6 parts section.It is a little smaller than most have recommended here,but it just might be the ticket for someone.Heck,it looks brand new and the price is real nice.

Besides,I love twins!!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1935364

 

There is also a 24 foot Featherlight for sale in the auto-x and road racing forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1936635

 

I purchased a Wells Cargo & Brute Ramps. I wanted doors over the trailer fenders so I can open the car doors. Also did 12000 lb axles, floor & ramp so I can stuff my Bobcat in there as well. E trac buried in the floor for Quads, Sleds whatever. I'm probably off track to the original question.

 

Do you have a picture of the vette in the trailer? Im curious about what trailers have the lower wheelwell so you can actually open the car doors. Can you still open it even if the car is realllllllly low?

 

This is turning into a really interesting thread. Thanks to all that posted. Hope there's more. The challenge for me is to figure out what I really need vs. want and see how much my finances can deal with. I've been to track events and having a trailer with a generator and an awning, maybe a wench would be very nice. My car is very low, so I doubt if my doors will clear the wheel well covers, but it's a vert so I can leave the top down and climb out.
John

 

I bought a trailer in 90 by wells cargo, 20" and had 4' dovetail, ramp drive up door, drivers side door, front side door, loved it and like earlier mentioned I stored car and junk in it for 14 years in between tows to new duty station (AF). Sold it few years ago and regret it so now looking for new one that will cost big bucks live and learn

 

I've been also looking at tie downs...particularly the T Hooks from AWDirect (PD-1)s. My question is with the puck slots under the doors, and the car so low to the ground, how can you ratchet down the straps which will have to cross under the car. It will be especially difficult on the front with the air spoiler. How do you guys do this? Maybe I'll need E-track on the floor instead of D-rings.
John