[Z06] Camber adjustments
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario
Camber adjustments
To set the front suspension camber to -1.5 to -2 degrees, how much do you need to lower the car? Is there an adjustment for camber separate from lowering the car on the front suspension? Are there any parts required? :o
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Your're kidding, right?
All cars have a way to adjust caster and camber to keep the front wheels aligned.
The Corvette has two cams on the lower control arms that are used in combination to set caster and camber. A word of caution. If you run -1 to -2 degrees negative camber, and are not racing, you will get significant inside tire wear. For the street, the camber needs to be close to zero, or no more than about -1/8 degree for reasonable tire wear.
All cars have a way to adjust caster and camber to keep the front wheels aligned.
The Corvette has two cams on the lower control arms that are used in combination to set caster and camber. A word of caution. If you run -1 to -2 degrees negative camber, and are not racing, you will get significant inside tire wear. For the street, the camber needs to be close to zero, or no more than about -1/8 degree for reasonable tire wear.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario
Live and learn!
Your're kidding, right?
All cars have a way to adjust caster and camber to keep the front wheels aligned.
The Corvette has two cams on the lower control arms that are used in combination to set caster and camber. A word of caution. If you run -1 to -2 degrees negative camber, and are not racing, you will get significant inside tire wear. For the street, the camber needs to be close to zero, or no more than about -1/8 degree for reasonable tire wear.
All cars have a way to adjust caster and camber to keep the front wheels aligned.
The Corvette has two cams on the lower control arms that are used in combination to set caster and camber. A word of caution. If you run -1 to -2 degrees negative camber, and are not racing, you will get significant inside tire wear. For the street, the camber needs to be close to zero, or no more than about -1/8 degree for reasonable tire wear.
My tires are worn more on the outside due to my driving style. I thought I would try to even this out by introducing significant negative camber and help me on the week ends at the track as well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
The specs for Z06 camber are -0.7 +/- .5, so you could have -1.2 deg. negative camber and still be within factory specs. I am not certain how negative you can go with the cams, but I would guess that -2 deg would be within range. Mine came from the factory with over 1 degree negative, and that produced inside tire wear.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
Do a search in the autocross and racing page and you will find a lot of info on car setup, how much to lower your car, and what amounts of negative camber to run. The ride height is dependent on the shocks you are running, the amount of negative camber is dependent on how often you are tracking the car and what level of driver you are...
You can put in a lot of negative camber if you don't toe the car out on the street. Toe out provides good turn in, but it eats tires on a daily baisis. Lots of folks set in a good amount of negative camber (-1.5 to -2.0) in the front and set the toe to 1/8 inch total toe in for the street. Mark the tie rods at that setting with paint or scribe marks so that you can reset the toe at the track. When you go to the track, crank one turn of toe out on each side from the 1/8 toe in that you had on the street and that will give you good turn in at the track. That will get you "reasonalbe" tire wear if you are tracking the car and it will even out after a few track days.
You can put in a lot of negative camber if you don't toe the car out on the street. Toe out provides good turn in, but it eats tires on a daily baisis. Lots of folks set in a good amount of negative camber (-1.5 to -2.0) in the front and set the toe to 1/8 inch total toe in for the street. Mark the tie rods at that setting with paint or scribe marks so that you can reset the toe at the track. When you go to the track, crank one turn of toe out on each side from the 1/8 toe in that you had on the street and that will give you good turn in at the track. That will get you "reasonalbe" tire wear if you are tracking the car and it will even out after a few track days.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
Also noting the post you had on changing sway bars, I am thinking that perhaps you were going to go to stiffer bars to reduce body roll and were thinking that would help reduce your tire wear... It won't help much if any at all... The reason you are wearing the outside of your tires is a result of not enough negative camber, and the bars aren't going to reduce body roll enough to change that by any appreciable amount. Stick with the stock bars, add some negative camber and get some more seat time...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario
This really helps
Do a search in the autocross and racing page and you will find a lot of info on car setup, how much to lower your car, and what amounts of negative camber to run. The ride height is dependent on the shocks you are running, the amount of negative camber is dependent on how often you are tracking the car and what level of driver you are...
You can put in a lot of negative camber if you don't toe the car out on the street. Toe out provides good turn in, but it eats tires on a daily baisis. Lots of folks set in a good amount of negative camber (-1.5 to -2.0) in the front and set the toe to 1/8 inch total toe in for the street. Mark the tie rods at that setting with paint or scribe marks so that you can reset the toe at the track. When you go to the track, crank one turn of toe out on each side from the 1/8 toe in that you had on the street and that will give you good turn in at the track. That will get you "reasonalbe" tire wear if you are tracking the car and it will even out after a few track days.
You can put in a lot of negative camber if you don't toe the car out on the street. Toe out provides good turn in, but it eats tires on a daily baisis. Lots of folks set in a good amount of negative camber (-1.5 to -2.0) in the front and set the toe to 1/8 inch total toe in for the street. Mark the tie rods at that setting with paint or scribe marks so that you can reset the toe at the track. When you go to the track, crank one turn of toe out on each side from the 1/8 toe in that you had on the street and that will give you good turn in at the track. That will get you "reasonalbe" tire wear if you are tracking the car and it will even out after a few track days.
M.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario
The specs for Z06 camber are -0.7 +/- .5, so you could have -1.2 deg. negative camber and still be within factory specs. I am not certain how negative you can go with the cams, but I would guess that -2 deg would be within range. Mine came from the factory with over 1 degree negative, and that produced inside tire wear.
How many miles before you noticed it? Any track time at that time?
Mine started to show wear on the outside after 2000 miles and one track day and a camber of -.7 degrees front and back.
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