Thanks Gary. I will order and give it a shot

 

50 x 2.49 =
If you've got the money to spend, the wedges do simplify things because of the tiny chip resistors they use, but you're going to have to solder to get the hvac done anyway.

I'd buy a soldering iron and accessories, some loose LED's and resistors, and start practicing. Just my .02 from my experience so far.

 

In the radio and hvac units I use the neowedge's and they are more expensive but you will avoid the time it takes to make the bare leds and also the button clearance issues. Its kind of a time vs money issue and you have to make that call yourself.One plus on using the neo's for me is I have many spare bases to make kits to fit all the different locations that take the type b neo's and sell them!! It offsets the cost some! Be aware that the bulb sockets behind the HUD buttons are smaller. They take a type A neowedge.At least all the ones I've seen are that way.The type A's are a 8mm and the type B's are a 10mm I believe. The page button will be weak unless you disassemble the pod and solder in a led pointed in the right direction.There are many mods with these leds that require custom work! Come join the fun!!

 

Does anybody know a source for getting the chip resistors that Oznium uses in their neo wedges???

I'd like to get my hands on a bunch of those and use them with all the flat top LED's I've got.

 

They'd be awefully tough to work with as they are surface mounts, no leads and I have a feeling that they would put you into the NEO Wedge price range... I'll poke around for you though as now I'm curious!

Tim

 

Love to do mine but looks like a pain in the butt! ! !

I rather pay to get it done..........

 

I love LEDs! I have many on my car and I'm going to add many more; subscribing to keep me informed. maybe when I get some projects done I'll even post about them.

 

I hope you do!!!!!!!

Tim

 

ok, here is my first contribution! I'm in the middle of alot of LED mods right now but work is going slowly because work takes up most of my time.

here I have added a long strip of flexible LEDs from oznium.com in my drivers and passenger's side foot wells. I wired them in parallel with the stock light which has an LED replacement bulb in it, but I might as well remove it at at this point. these lights don't look like much, so they have to be used where you can't really see them, but the light they put off is simply amazing.

I wanted more light, and I got it! the color I chose was the natural white. I don't like the looks of the yellow white, that's what I wanted to get rid of, but I thought the cool white might look alittle too artificial.

here's one side installed, the strips come with adhesive on the back just peel and stick! I picked the widest point I could find, so each strip is 30-35cm long.


here they are lit up


without the flash so you can really see the color


and finally, the finished product. one side effect I've found...if you just completed a weekend of moding your car and you haven't cleaned up your floor carpets yet, this will make it obvious!



I'll try to get some better night shots later, if they are this bright in my well lit garage, I can't wait to see how they look at night time!

 

Wow!!!! That looks great!!!!!!! Really even lighting, that's the best I've seen! Awesome job!


And yeah your carpets are a mess!

Tim

 

great information

 

For those who have done the HVAC LED conversion, what brighness of LED did you use? I have a couple of burned out bulbs and need to do this upgrade. I've found a good price on 3000mcd LEDs, but I'm afraid they might be too bright for the HVAC backlighting...just looking for some input!

 

Those 3000's may be too dim. I used 6000 or 8000 mcd white LED's.

Gary

 

interesting. I guess the HVAC display diffuses it some. even a 300mcd is blinding to look at, a 3000 leaves you seeing spots for 15+minutes if you look directly into it...so I found out by accident

 

Might have to do some experimenting.

I'm using blue LED's rated at avg. 4000mcd~5000mcd max, flat tops, and started with 510ohm resistors and it was TOO bright (compared to the neo wedges in the doors, and DIC). I redid mine with 680ohm resistors and it toned it down enough to match up better. Not perfect, but it looks pretty good now.

 

I can't find it now but the NEO Wedges have a very low mcd rating compared to regular LEDs in the same color... It's something to keep in mind.

Physically doing the swap is relatively easy, getting everything even and consistant through out the interior is the hard part and the main reason the original Thread got so huge... I'm using a mix of NEOs, regular LEDs, Red silicone bulb covers and various resistor sizes and it was all experimentation and every color has it's own "personality"!

Now with the Speedhut faceplates coming out for the IPC, I'm going to be tweaking everything AGAIN so it all matches!

Most owner's seem content with doing the bulb swap alone while others are more critical. All the techniques are posted SOMEWHERE between the two Threads. Of course finding it might be a challenge! I suppose we should start a new Thread for us **** folks.

Tim

 

Im trying to go the autolights on the rear view mirror in a 02 Z06, can anyone help?

 

Here ya go;

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...5&postcount=23

Tim

 

its a manual mirror, i typed that wrong

 

I managed to get my stock radio converted to blue LED's a couple weeks ago and recently decided to pull it out again and make a few tweaks, so I snapped some pics to show what's involved with doing this.

We'll begin with the radio out of the car (already plenty of write ups on doing that).

First, pull straight out on the Volume and Tuning ***** and they'll come off.


Next, remove the nut and washer that hold the volume switch to the faceplate.



The faceplate is held on by eight snap-lock tabs, two on each of the four sides. I used a small screw driver to release them one at a time and slipped some tooth picks in place to keep them from locking again. Once you've release all of them, slide the faceplate away from the radio.



With the faceplate detached, it'll still be dangling by two wire looms. We'll need to disconnect those to be able to work on it, and to do that, the bottom cover will have to come off. Remove the silver screw on the bottom...it's a T-15 torx.



And then remove these two on the back side...




With the bottom cover removed, we see a circuit board with three small bolts (circled in red). Remove them.



The circuit board is still held in place by two bolts that secure the antenna socket. One on the side, and one on the back. Remove.




At this point, you can carefully flip the circuit board up and to one side. It's still got some wires attaching it to the radio.



With that board sitting out of the way, we can access the wire looms that attach the faceplate to the radio. There's a red one and a white one. Pull straight up on them to disconnect them from their sockets. You may have to wiggle them a bit.



Feed the wires through the slot and the faceplate is free so we can work on it.



The back side of the faceplate has a circuit board held on by eight tiny bolts (circled in red). I don't know what size they are, but if you have a socket that small, you're lucky. I used a small crescent wrench to remove them (takes a little while ).



Once you get that done, this is what you've got. You can now start de-soldering the stock incandescent lights and replacing them with your LED's and resistors.



Some more tips to come in the next thread...