The good thing is that we don't race dyno sheets. As long as you use the same dyno throughout your build-up, you will know if what you are doing is helping or not. Calibration can be different between even the same make of dyno, so stay with the same shop.

Nobody is arguing these guys are getting over 400 on their dyno at all. Just that the calibrations can create a +- situation with them. Stay on the same dyno and you'll always know if your $ and time is paying off.

 

OK... so I was wrong... there are apparently quite a few Z06 dyno racers, and "mine's bigger than yours"
unless you are running a straight 1/4 mile car, peak dyno numbers are about 5% of the final equation.

 

From what I've seen on most Dyno threads , most often they are dyno racers. I'm firm on if you think you're car is quick, take it to the track. Most will get the're attitude adjusted from there. With the LS6 motor you best make sure that your oil temp is up where it should be, before putting it up to the task of a dyno run(valve spring failure) etc.Personally I don't give much thought to dyno #'s. Oh and when you do post your #'s, if it does'nt look right to certain people, then you're a LIAR.

 

These posts always amuse me because so many (most) folks are completely cluless on dynos and results.. Comparing results is like comparing oranges to apples.. And yes I too used to be cluless
Remember:
Different dynos ie.. makes/models give different numbers
The same dynos give different numbers. Depending on calibration settings.. Dyno Operator makes his own descision on Dyno claibration.
The same dynos with different operators give different numbers
Dyno calibration settings vary and can be changed from SAE to Standard by the operator, giving totally different dyno numbers
Altitude,humidity,temperature can have a huge effect on dyno results when not using SAE corrected settings
/ Speed shops can exaggerate numbers by using certain calibrations to inflate thier numbers ( A happy client will come back if his numbers look good). Sad but true some People lie or exaggerate on this forum
Dyno Jet SAE corrected rwhp on a Stock A4= 280-290 6spd 300-310
Best thing to do is stick with the same operator and same Manufacturer/model Dyno from Bone stock - all modifications
Don't rely on what others say about THEIR cars output based on the above information I have provided.. I've seen bone stock numbers from 270rwhp to 360rwhp (LS1) depending on the above... Unfortunately no one knows to post all the above information when they post their dyno numbers... Its all a big joke, unless the poster knows the answers to all these questions or knows exactly what the operator of the dyno is using, which is critical when comparing with others... Like I said its like comparing apples and oranges

 

01 Z06 w/ 02 cam...completely stock motor.
Blackwing intake
B&B Bullets, stock manifolds, stock cats, stock hpipe
Powerbond pulley (25%)
Tune
395rwhp STD
385rwhp SAE

About to add LG Street headers, should be around the 400rwhp SAE mark. Then I guess my other options for bolt-ons only would be FAST intake, tb, and electric water pump.

 

Don't bother replacing the stock Ti setup. You will not gain any power.

 

Sorry bro but i think your dyno numbers are off , these dyno machines can be manipulated very easily.

 

who cares.

Once you get one you wont worry about the dyno numbers. As has been already mentioned unless you do burnouts and run drag radials on the street it already has more than enough power for the tires.

 

LG has video proof that you will Check out the "Big 3"

 

I just dyno'd with ARH LT's, no cats, DHM cutouts, and stock Ti's. Only gained 3rwhp with the cutouts open.

 

and cutouts are not the same as a full exhaust...go watch the video for proof

 

Have always used this dyno and I dyno tune about 2-3 cars a month and have matched it with a dynojet about 2 miles away with very similar results.

My old bone stock 04 z06 put down 354rwhp and my current 01 put down 365 with intake and b&b bullets (original 01 cam). The addition of the 02 cam and pulley brought me to 385.

I see plenty of z06's go on this dyno with a few bolt ons making around 350-365 range. These are all SAE numbers. I just dont get how mine is making so much. Im happy about it, but I know it is a bit 'freakish'. Also has the original completely stock heads.

If anyone is in the Ft Lauderdale area and has a completely stock 02-04 z06, I will give you a free dyno pull just to compare.

 

I don't need video proof. I did my own test myself at XXX Motorsports in Pensacola and have my own dyno sheets to back up my claims. Every car is different dude, just giving my inputs and experiences so don't tell me what to do.

 

 

Wow we have some cranky dudes over here

 

Won't you gain more power with a nicely tuned/engineered cat back exhaust vs. a straight cut out on a N/A car.

On a turbocharged car obviously the turbo provides all the back pressure you want so as soon as you can dump the exhaust out the better or more HP. But I thought that having a exhaust that is carefully designed to make a certain amount of back pressure @ lower rpms will help HP. True?

 

Melrose LT+Catted X-pipe (Stock Ti Exhaust ),Vararam Intake , Tune

on Dynojet i put down 384RWHP/372WTQ SAE corrected

 

I don't have 405 rwhp(prob around 370-380) but I trap 120.5 in the 1/4(95 in the 1/8).

I have a Vararam, Kooks 1 3/4, high flow cats, Shaner TB, and a tune.

 

Blackwing intake, TR55 plugs, 160* therm, LG street series, high flows, borla touring edition catback.

388/380

 

2002 Z06

LG Pro long tube headers
Catless X-Pipe
Borla Stinger catback
K&N Intake
Ported Throttle Body
Tune

390/380 on the Dyno Jet at Advanced Dyno