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I have a 97 with 15K on it. I have been having a problem with my gas guage dropping to E and getting a check engine light. It has happened only 3 times but the last 2 have been very recent. I was advised to add some techron to the gas as this has been a known issue.
This morning when it did it I also got a service ABS light. I pulled over stop the car, turn the key back on and everything was reset. It seemed like a hit a bump during a quick turn and that when it happened this morning. electrical, computer, ???????
I have a 97 with 15K on it. I have been having a problem with my gas guage dropping to E and getting a check engine light. It has happened only 3 times but the last 2 have been very recent. I was advised to add some techron to the gas as this has been a known issue.
This morning when it did it I also got a service ABS light. I pulled over stop the car, turn the key back on and everything was reset. It seemed like a hit a bump during a quick turn and that when it happened this morning. electrical, computer, ???????
TIA
As you have noted the gas gauges do that, and Techron is the first thing to try. If it doesn't clear up after a few bottles of that, there can be other causes, but most of them involve replacing the fuels sender unit.
It is not common for that problem to cause the ABS light to come on though, I would suggest you pull the codes to see if any error codes were logged in the computers.
I will ask how old your battery is, or if the car has been sitting for a while - these cars are real sensitive to low voltages, and that can cause all kinds of weird problems. Also they are sensitive to having good, clean connections to the grounds, and being that you have a 97 (like I do), it may be that you need to go through the grounds to clean them up. There is a sticky post at the top of C5 Tech section that covers the grounds and a lot of other good stuff.
Pull the codes, then let us know what you find.
I checked my battery terminals and everything is very clean and tight. I did take the terminals off and back on to make sure to check. It is a delphi battery and looks pretty good. I have the bright green indicator light and when I drive it is 13+ volts. I also cleared all of my codes...but the HVAC codes dont want to clear.
I also checked the ground that is mounted to the drivers side front wheel fender and looked clean where it mounted. I did not take it appart since I was not sure how and did not want to damage it. I will re-read the post on electrical.
Last edited by texict; Oct 19, 2008 at 10:24 PM.
Reason: Fixed one of the problems.
It may well just have been a loose lead that caused the original fault. The codes are typical of a power interrupt. Don't forget when you're driving the DIC is showing the voltage on the circuit. It's not a good indication of the state of the battery. You need to measure the voltage across the battery terminals to check that. Even better have an on load check at Autozone.
If I understand correctly you have an original 97 Delphi battery? If so, it's done well to last this long but they are prone to leaks.
I'd strongly advise you to get a new battery as you've already had signs of that one dying. Random failures are symptomatic of the early signs.
If you decide to keep it, when you put it back in make sure you don't over tighten the battery leads. There was a design flaw on the early batteries and over tightening damages the case around the post. Thats when the problems start as acid can leak.
Torque the positive cable to 15 N-m (11 lb ft)
Torque the negative cable to 16 N-m (12 lb ft)
Don't forget, your computer is under the battery tray. Any acid down there is a nightmare.
A few bottles of Techron will clear the gas gauge issue
The HVAC control module commands the left air temperature actuator to move by controlling the voltage on the circuit. 0V moves it to full cold - 2.5V stops the door - 5v moves it to hot. The DTC sets when the signal circuit is <0.09V. Once set a default voltage is applied to try to maintain the left side at the temperature set by the driver.
The diagnosis procedure involves checking voltages on the circuit, checking and cleaning connections at the harness connector or the control module and eventually changing the left air temperature actuator and HVAC control module.
Bottom line it could be voltage related, particularly as you've had a related power problem. The HVAC unit could be toast but I'd still change my battery first and see where I was. That may yet fix it.
I have only had the car for a year (got it with 10,300 on it) so I am driving it :>). With that I dont know how old the battery is, but it sure looks clean if it is origianl. It does have a serial number on it...is there anyway to check how old it is by the serial number?
Just to be safe, I will stop by autozone and have them check the battery..More later. Thanks to everyone.
Thanks for the link. The battery is 5 years old to the month. Autozone also check the battery and it tested good.
I guess it is on to cleaning the grounds. For the ones in the hood area, once I unbolt them from the chassis, do they just pull apart or have a release spot? I am not a very mechanical which is why I really appreciate all the help.
For 8vette7...I was just out in Tucson at a user conference and play golf at Loews. That was my first trip to Tucson and I would like to come back again. Very nice up in the foot hills.
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