Power brake bleeding
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
You many not use the full amount in the pressure bleeder, so that goes to waste.
the main reason is spiller or leaks. Brake fluid is costic and will eat paint.
So it is just easier to fill the MC, put on the Bleeder cap and pressure.
Now I also made my own cap with a three way valve, to release pressure on the MC and bleeder bottle , before I remove the the bleeder cap from the MC.
Real die hards use pressurize N2 instead of pressurized air too keep moisture out of the bake fluid as long as possible
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 4
From: North Port Fl
What I have left in the tank I just pour back in the bottle it's never been contaminated with fluid from the system. I've been using this bleeder for years and never had a leak or spilled any fluid. To bleed pressure I just crack open the cap on the Motive tank, but you only need to do this once, when you're done since you don't have to keep refilling the master cylinder. I guess it just another way to use it, but I think I'll stick to the method I've been using I've never had a problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 45
From: Castleton VA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
To the guys that don't put brake fluid in their Motive tank. Could you tell me why you don't? What advantage is there to not putting fluid in the tank, you have to keep taking the cap off refilling the MC and pumping it back up again.
I just put fluid in the Motive tank, and pump it up, this is the way Motive designed it to work, I can do all 4 wheels without having to refill the tank. I've never had any leaks or problems so what is the reasoning behind the only air in the Motive tank method?
I just put fluid in the Motive tank, and pump it up, this is the way Motive designed it to work, I can do all 4 wheels without having to refill the tank. I've never had any leaks or problems so what is the reasoning behind the only air in the Motive tank method?
To each their own, but for me having to remove the cap a couple times to refill the master cylinder reservoir is much less bother than the clean-up and waste issues.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
To the guys that don't put brake fluid in their Motive tank. Could you tell me why you don't? What advantage is there to not putting fluid in the tank, you have to keep taking the cap off refilling the MC and pumping it back up again.
I just put fluid in the Motive tank, and pump it up, this is the way Motive designed it to work, I can do all 4 wheels without having to refill the tank. I've never had any leaks or problems so what is the reasoning behind the only air in the Motive tank method?
I just put fluid in the Motive tank, and pump it up, this is the way Motive designed it to work, I can do all 4 wheels without having to refill the tank. I've never had any leaks or problems so what is the reasoning behind the only air in the Motive tank method?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
Easy -- no brake fluid to drip out of the cap/hose onto the engine/fender/etc. when removing the cap, no post-use bottle clean-up needed, no wasting large volumes of brake fluid (the volume of fluid which must be maintained in the bottle to ensure the pickup remains covered (I'm not putting the exposed, but unused fluid back in its can for reuse), and far less exposure of the fluid to moisture from the air (large surface area in the bottle exposed to a large volume of potentially humid air).
To each their own, but for me having to remove the cap a couple times to refill the master cylinder reservoir is much less bother than the clean-up and waste issues.
To each their own, but for me having to remove the cap a couple times to refill the master cylinder reservoir is much less bother than the clean-up and waste issues.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: LEBANON PA.
Hi nascar57:
I have no knowledge of using the mighty vac power bleeding system. I only copied & pasted it from another c/f member to inform you that you could use the dot 4 because the only difference is the higher boiling point. I do it the old fashioned way manually.rr,lr,rf,lf
robsc501
I have no knowledge of using the mighty vac power bleeding system. I only copied & pasted it from another c/f member to inform you that you could use the dot 4 because the only difference is the higher boiling point. I do it the old fashioned way manually.rr,lr,rf,lf
robsc501
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
That sequence is what I was accustomed to however the sequence from the factory manual goes like this. RR,LF,LR,RF. Not sure why but thats what the manual says. Thanks!
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: LEBANON PA.
Hi There nascar57:
I stand corrected sir. Sorry for the bad info.You sir are correct the 2001 s/manual on page 5-52 states rr,lf,lr,rf.How did you make out with the power bleeding method?
robsc501
I stand corrected sir. Sorry for the bad info.You sir are correct the 2001 s/manual on page 5-52 states rr,lf,lr,rf.How did you make out with the power bleeding method?
robsc501
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 21
From: centennial colorado
