I'm getting ready to flush my brake system on my 2001. I dont do much to my vette without checking with forum member first! O.K. my question is can I use dot 4 brake fluid?? I have a couple liters of ATE SUPER BLUE DOT 4 fluid I want to use. GM calls for dot 3 but dot 4 I think is compatible. Its not silicone based so I think its o.k. What are the facts?? Thanks.

 

I did mine a couple years ago but I can't remember. I did some searching on here and found the answer. There is a DOT5 I think that is not compat with DOT3. Sorry I can't remember...

 

DOT 3 or 4 are compatable but you are right - DOT 5 is silicone base and should not be mixed.

 

I used DOT3 last year when I did mine. Good luck on the job.

 

I use ATE Super Blue and their Yellow (both are identical except for color) Makes it real easy to tell when you have flushed all the old out. You will be fine with ATE, good brake fluid.

Just remember that without a Tech II you can't flush the ABS without one. So every 50k or so you might want to have it flushed using it.

I guess 50k miles makes no sense with this post. There are lots of Vette owners who won't see 50k in a Vette in their lifetime. Maybe every 3-4 years or so.

 

ATE SUPER BLUE DOT 4 fluid is some of the best brake fluid on the market. Go 4 it

brake fluid should be flushed each year IMO.

 

Hi There:
I used the dot 3 fluid( not a racer) gm p/n 12377967. I believe that the dot 4 boiling point is the only difference.Racers would need this added temperature advantage.Much higher than dot 3 (284 degrees f) Should you have power bleeder problems the manual bleed sequence is rr,lr,rf,lf How long has the dot 4 fluid been sitting a round?
robsc501

 

The Mity Vac Brake Bleeder is one of the BEST investments in tools I have made. Bleed your brakes in 15 minutes or less. It works awesome!

$129 @ Sears.

 

Its fresh brake fluid as far as I know. Dont know how long the dealer had it on their shelf. I guess I cant flush the anti-locks because I dont have a tech 2.

 

This is the brake bleeder I have and it works great, and at about 1/2 the price of some of the others out there. It works great for flushing the brake system and adding new.

http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GN7013/VTSUSP...+Chrysler.html

 

That is the one I have. I think I paid $56 plus shipping. I havent used it yet. I just wish I could flush the antilock brake unit too. Must you have a tech 2 to do that?? Im going to read the service manual to know for sure.

 

Hi There nascar57:
I found this post by c4 cruiser dated 2/22/08 on this forum.I think this is what your looking for.Unless you do a lot of hard braking (track days or spirited mountain driving), a good quality DOT3 fluid is fine. Something like Castrol LMA or Ford Motorsorts HD fluid will work well. The Ford fluid has a wet boiling point of 290 degrees and the Castrol is 311 degrees.

If you intend on doing track days, go with a DOT4 fluid like ATE Super Blue or TYP200. This fluid has a wet boiling point of 392 degrees.

The Motive pressure bleeder will be a big help in flushing and adding the new fluid. But don't put brake fluid into the Motive tank. Just pressurize the tank to about 15-20 psi to do the bleeding. That amount of pressure will effectively bleed the ABS system along with the brake lines and calipers.

You will need to keep a close watch on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir so that it doesn't run dry. One liter of fluid should be enough. The Castrol and Ford fluids come in small bottles so 3-4 should be enough.
robsc501

 

Yup that is the one

 

I just read through the service manual about flushing the brake system. The manual said that only if the brake pedal is spongy after bleeding the brake system do you need a tech ll to cycle the bpmv{brake pressure modulator valve] to remove air that may have been trapped there. It says to use 25-30 psi in the power bleeder. So I think if there is no air in the system and you use the recommended pressure it will also bleed the anti-lock module also. I could be wrong but it makes sense to me. Any expert advise out there??

 

What is the advantage of not putting fluid in the Motive bleeder?? Less of a mess maybe?? One would have to remove the adapter a few times to keep the resevoir full if not filling the Motive bleeder.

 

I always use brake fluid in the Motive tank and have never had a problem or a leak. Simple science will tell you that air is less dense than brake fluid so air could leak through a spot that brake fluid won't. So it makes more sense to me to push brake fluid through the hose and cap rather than air, plus you have to refill the container less or not at all. Putting brake fluid in the motive container and pumping it through the system is the way it was designed to work. Why is there a hose leading from the nipple where the exit hose is connected to the bottom of the tank, if you didn't put fluid in the tank you wouldn't need this hose.

I've never flushed the brakes on a C5 (I've done a few brakes jobs and bled the brakes of a few). I just thought when you were flushing the system you were going through the ABS module.

 

I think you are right on those points. I've pressure bled many a system that way. If air has somehow gotten into the antilock modulator I can see where you would need a tech ll to cycle the valves. Othewise I think it flushes right through the modulator. My brakes are fine, just want to freshen all the fluids.

 

I dont put brake fluid into my motive tank. Only fresh fluid into the MC.

and YES when you use the Motive Power bleeder vs the mini vac you are pushing fluid under pressure 18-20 PSI though the ABS module. With the mini vac IIRC you can not pull or suck fluid though the ABS module.

Key is NEVER LET THE MC run dry. If you do it is a pain in the arz. Either a tech II or the other drastic measure.

I have loaned my bleeder to a friend and once in a while they call me and say, ARUUGGGG, my brake peddle goes to the floor and does not stop.

I ask did you let the MC run dry? In most cases YES they did. or in every case YES they did.

What I do then, bleed the brakes as best as possible. Then ( here is the tricky part) take the car for a very very slow drive, down the street, maybe 5-7 mph. Pump the brakes several times. YES the brake peddle will go to the floor and the car may not stop. That is why the 5-7 mph.

What this does is OPEN the ABS and cycle the ABS. Then slowly drive or roll the car back the garage, put it back on four jack stands and REBLEED the brakes and make sure the MC DOES NOT EMPTY OUT.

Bleed as normal, pump the brake pedel three four times, after you do the rear two calipers, and 3-4 times after you do the front two calipers.

The brake pedal should not travel more then 1/2" - a 1/4" is better,

NOW go take your car for a slow drive again. If the brakes work, go out a little faster, then finally a good brake bleeding.

to bleed brakes you do need four jack stands so you can have your car up all on all four at one time. with all four wheels off.

It takes some time, but well worth it.

Good Luck

 

I usually stay at ~10 psi, but otherwise do the same. I also agree with alternating ATE Super Blue/ATE yellow fluid -- makes seeing the new fluid coming out of the bleeder *very* easy.

 

To the guys that don't put brake fluid in their Motive tank. Could you tell me why you don't? What advantage is there to not putting fluid in the tank, you have to keep taking the cap off refilling the MC and pumping it back up again.

I just put fluid in the Motive tank, and pump it up, this is the way Motive designed it to work, I can do all 4 wheels without having to refill the tank. I've never had any leaks or problems so what is the reasoning behind the only air in the Motive tank method?